Tire testing with Tubliss

Well, it actually stopped raining here for a week or so and they graded the access road up into the forest. It's like having my own personal groomed GP course. Got a couple of good rides in on the 907. Dropped the pressure to 5 psi the last ride and it was great. Still a little too spinny in the deep woods for me, but overall very good tire. 20 hrs of abuse and it still has a long way to go. It was as hard or harder to unmount as the 887.

Since it's been raining all week and probably all next week too, I thought I'd mount the Sedona 880 which I've had for awhile now.

It's a tough, heavy tire, 100/90-19 weighs 11lbs 13 oz. Had to cuss it alot to get it to mount Broke it in @ 8psi for a couple of hours of WFO riding and didn't even wear the leading edge off. Works very well everywhere so far, didn't do the rock garden today though. Only skechyness was on wet hardpack clay. Gonna go to 6 psi next and hope it does even better.

So how is the 880 longer term?

I love the 907 at 5psi.

So I have been getting a lot of punctures this season as well. I usually run the Bridgestone M59 front and Pirelli MT16 rear on my 17 TE300. New England woods riding. Lots of rocks.

This weekend also went through a Pirelli Scorpion on the rear, with an increased size from stock as well. Popped it right at the edge of the bead. Stuck 3 plugs into it (with slime already in the tire) and it was still slowly pissing.

So....... I called Jeff at Tubliss to get some suggestions.
He really felt both the M59 and the MT16 were too soft on sidewalls. I had been running 9.5 to 10.5 PSI.
He suggested the Shinko Set up of:
546 front
505 rear.

And that I could drop back down to more like 7psi with those.
So I have them on the way to me at the moment.
Race on Sunday, will know more after that.
I had been contemplating the NitroMousse from Nuetech as well.

That will be my final step, but around here, for non race days, I have to burn road sections. Was afraid I would go through those as well.
Jeff said that they have not yet been able to get one to break down from heat yet. Hope this solves it. Sick of buying tires prematurely.

The 880 is really good @ 6 psi. This is 100/90-19 on the 165, it's a small tire with round profile. Traction improved noticably going to 6 psi, it's very good everywhere now.
VE33 is bigger, better and lighter, but wears faster.
Metz MC4 is bigger, better and a little lighter, wears well and is still my overall fav.
I did 2 3hour rides at 6 psi including the rock garden, which is steep, wet and twisty 1/2 mile long, the 880 handled is all but the rocks put some wear on it. It's much better in the wet woods than the 907 for me. It's actually better in mud and muck than the IRC or Metz. I'll probably stach a fresh one just because of that.

Hope you have better luck with the Shinkos. Will be interested to hear how it goes.
Maybe just dumb luck, but I haven't flatted in a few years, racing or riding my home turf. I only run 4 ply tires or Metz 3 ply front and rear, I still run a tube on the front. I don't trail ride either, I like to go fast and always pushing it. Lots of rock and brutal terrain too.

Long term on the Shinkos from down under:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqkx10AMV0M

I put a nail through a brandnew x40 battle cross, and my inner tube at the end of a ride the other day. Darnit..

I put the Kenda equilibrium and tubliss on my 200 EXC. I stayed at 8lbs but the traction was likely the best I have ever had. Tackling nasty uphill logs suddenly became easy. I am very happy with the combo. On the other hand, I put a tubliss in the rear of my brand new 300XC and it lasted 30 seconds of the first ride. I though it was a bad install by me, but after taking it apart it turns out there was a flaw in the tube right where the schrader valve is bonded in. There is an odd thin section about half the size of dime on each side - and very thin and stretchy. The tube delaminated in the center of one of these spots, like 2 layers coming apart. It held 120PSI in the shop for more than a week previously. I called Tubliss to report the flaw. They were nice but it didn't go anywhere. The replacement bladder I bought did not have this flaw. Cam.

I didn't use slime but did put it in properly with a super tightened rim lock. The bladder that failed has an obvious defect. I was a bit surprised that they didn't offer to send a replacement. I have never tried a mousse, how does it hold the tire on the bead? Do you plug the old valve stem hole? Cam.

Yes most of what I ride winds up being wet, only place its not great is really thick mud it doesnt seem to clean out super easy vs. a more spread out pattern. Im scared tot try anything els because the combo works so well

Anyone tried anything different with Tubliss lately? I've pretty much worn out the Sedona 880 on my 165 over the winter. Need to calculate hours and take a pic.
Have an 880 mounted on the 300 and interested to see how the bigger version works.

I'm running tubliss in everything now! I Still have the original set I bought for my 2015 Fe 501s. I've been doing a lot of single track as of lately on my new 250 two-stroke. My experience with the Dunlop AT 81 is as follows. They were great when brand new. The rear diminishes way too quickly. The front AT81 is pretty good the first day but is soon as the sharp edges are gone from the knobs it becomes a hairball operation. Myself and a few friends have been running the Sedona 907 rear as of late because we are getting them for 63 dollars apiece. They worked fabulously with the tubliss set up at 4 to 5 pounds. This is technically a hard train tire. We recently did an all day singletrack ride after a 3 inch rain storm here in Northern California Two weeks Ago. It was super snotty muddy. This tire proved to work great in the mud as well.We put it up against some super gnarly super steep hill climbs. Thumbs up for the Shinco as well I'm running the fatty in the front now on my 250 at 10lbs.

I like the IRC vulcanduro v33 rear.

That's my overall fav too, even with a tube it's a great tire and can run low pressures. Also, the current version is the lightest of the tires I've tried. Are you running the 110 or did you go for the big 5.10?

So many tire choices these days, I liked the Shinko 520 a lot and was going to try the 525 and now there's the 525 hybrid. Most of the hybrid tires talk about a softer side wall, so doesn't sound ideal with Tubliss, at least not at very low pressure.
Also, Shinko 216 front sounds like a must try

I went 5.10 the last 3 and really like it.

My Artrax SE3's are getting pretty worn down but still gripping extremely well at 3-4 psi. Torn between getting another cheap Artrax set or tring the Shinko 520??? Have over 1000miles on the Artrax. May go SE3 front and Shinko 520 rear

Not going to try the Shinko 216 front? It's @ $56 online and only negative I've heard is the 90/90 runs small. I may finally try the Shinko Fatty 90/100. Otherwise I don't go cheap on fronts

Turns out that the rear rim in my new 300XC has enough flaws that I cant run my tubliss. I may try filling them with epoxy. Lots of pits and blemishes. Cam.

I read your post about your rear bladder failure. Is this post regarding an install with the new bladder?

No I put on a new shinko505 but stopped the tubliss install due to the flaws in the rim. This is a 2.5hr bike. I doubt it had anything to do with the bladder failure as all it would do would be to make the tire leak air. I put the tube in for now so I could ride and will likely JB Weld the flaws and sand them smooth so I can put the new tubliss in. I still think the original failure was a bad bladder, as others have had the same failure and got replacements. US guys get replacements and CAD guys get sympathy. Cam.

KXcam22, many misunderstand how the system seals. The rim does not effect the seal unless it's severely bent. The lip of the liner is pushed out by the 120pd bladder. This forces the outer part of the liner to squeeze against the inside of the tire. The rim only supports
the outside of the tire during the expansion of the liner against the inside of the tire.