Since ownership and 5000 miles so far, had not needed to adjust the chain, its had no stretch at all. Must be the chain oilier and chainsaw oil that's the reason for its longevity.
Found the best way for me when adjusting the chain is to disconnect the rear shock with a jack under the centre of the bike. Then lower the bike to align the swing arm pivot point and sprockets.
That is a whole lot of work for a simple job. There are other easier options, one is to use the cargo ratchet strap idea, or even easier to adjust the chain so it has 55-60mm of free movement.
Its not a hard job to disconnect the shock and now I have done it once I know the measurement I need with the bike on the side stand. I was not comfortable trying to use a ratchet strap across the top of the bike. Additionally by disconnecting the rear shock it allowed me to work on the bike without any load on the swing arm.
I use a Scootoiler - on my ZRX1100 I changed the chain & sprockets at 108,000klms I fitted an upmarket X-ring chair to my TR within the first few weeks, now have 26,000klms with little sign of wear - the Scottoiler also keeps the chain cleaner
Are we talking lubrication or incorrect adjustments here? The fact is the figures in the owners manual for chain tension are wrong and it is possible to do damage or cause excess wear due to the overtension. IMHO no amount of chain oil will compensate for that.
Ok but with the correct measurements now known I really do not see that there is any reason to disconnect the shock at all.
at the end i have changed OEM chain 37.000km , and replace by BMW G650 CHAIN KIT. we will see if it is as long as OEM original.
Before our big trip up to Mt. Pinnibar last weekend I did the disconnect the rear shock thing & measured. I got everything in line, adjusted the chain so that it had about 10-12mm of slack then by the time I tightened the rear axle nut to torque, the slack had disappeared. So I kept backing each side adjuster bolt 1 flat at a time until I got my 10-12mm (1/2") slack in the chain WITH THE REAR AXLE NUT TORQUED. I re-connected the shock, took the bike off the stand, jumped on & off it a few times, compressed the suspension, wheeled it around a bit then put it on the side stand to measure the slack - 47mm. So I'm calling it for my bike at 47-50mm. I then did a 1,200km return trip from Sydney to Mt. Pinnibar (steep & technical) and the bike was fantastic. No jerks or hook-up mis-haps & much less suspension/drive train clanks & clunks over the really choppy stuff.
After 8000km, the rear Conti TKC70 on my Strada needed replacing, not enough tread left to get me to the Alpine Rally next month. I don't mind the shortish life; the grip on sealed roads is stellar, wet or dry. It's good on dirt roads too. Front TKC70 still looks new. So I had another TXC70 rear tyre installed, and checked the chain tension for the first time since the previous tyre was fitted. I thought I had it set for 60mm movement at the front chain guard screw, with the rear suspension topped out, but I could only get 55mm now. No tight spot in the chain. The Cameleon oiler is brilliant. Chain has done 21000km, about 13000km with the oiler, using the supplied SAE190 oil. My Daytona's chain has 55000km, no tight spot, with a Scottoiler using chain saw oil. I do clean and oil the chain after a dirt road ride though, so I would know if it was knackered. One time I noted that the spring clip on the joining link was was correctly in place. After the next ride, the clip was missing. At least the side plate is a press fit on the pins. By leaving that link in place I had been breaking a rule I set 40 years ago when my last such link parted and left me stranded. I replaced the link with a rivet type. The chain looks good for another 10000km. IanB
