That would be nice. And I am trying, but do not have the final list of what I will take yet, and cannot until I go camping - Catcha 22 so to speak. I spent the weekend measuring the dimensions of what I own, and weighing each item I knew I want to take that I have (I would describe how I did that, but you would be laughing so hard you would be in tears). Then I researched non-stop all weekend both online and at REI (local store is having a 30-80% off sale August 10th!). But in the end I asked the expert - Woodschick.
I see the problem. I've got two packing lists. One for the two-wheelers, and one for the hack. I've got it down to a science now, but I've done it quite a bit.
Same. I have a list which I started about 12 years back and I just keep adding to. I use a packing list app on my smart phone to keep track of it all. The list started by me planning a multi-week ride, and sitting down and thinking about everything I would need. I packed that list and went on the ride. The only thing I was missing was a torch. I needed it once and I bought one the following day. Since then, every time I buy something new, or I think about something that would be useful that I don't have, I add it to the list, so I remember next time. As time goes by the list evolves, some things which were once necessary are no longer required. After a while I get into the packing habit, I know exactly where everything will fit, and always pack the same way every time. I also learned a valuable lesson on one ride. One morning I decided to strap a bag on my bike slightly differently to the way I had in the past. By doing this I put enough load on the rack to cause it to flex and break at it's weakest spot. So, before going on a trip on a bike I've never packed before, I will pack it, and take it for a test ride, and stop occasionally to check that everything has stayed in place and there is nothing moving or shifting or wearing or breaking and then I will always pack it exactly the same way.
I hate to speculate for a reason. TCI referred to this as their Outback system for the TR650. The Outback is their higher end line, and can be purchased alone, or complete with Pelican 1520 cases. The price for the system on the TE630 without cases is $349. The price for the Outback system on the TE630 with Pelican Cases is $659. I don't want to speculate on pricing for the TR, but this might be more realistic expectations of what TCI will be offering.
I was looking for Pelican/Seahorse cases to mount as a top case on the BRMoto rack. Not decided on what I want to go with yet, but I thought others might find these dimensions useful. The prices are rough averages just from Amazon, the Seahorses are including shipping with Amazon Prime. None are with the foam. I'm leaning between the Seahorse 520 or 540, but I'm trying to get a better idea of what all I will want in there. BRMoto Top Rack (rough estimate) 12.5" x 11" Seahorse 300 - $30 Interior Dimensions: 9.6" x 7.42" x 4" Exterior Dimensions: 10.8" x 9.85" x 4.87" im2100 - $80 Interior Dimensions: 13.00" x 9.20" x 6.00" Exterior Dimensions: 14.20" x 11.40" x 6.50" Seahorse 520 - $50 Interior Dimensions: 13.5" x 9.8" x 6" Exterior Dimensions: 14.9" x 12.13" x 6.88" Seahorse 540 - $60 Interior Dimensions: 13.5" x 9.8" x 8.75" Exterior Dimensions: 14.9" x 12.13" x 9.58" Pelican 1500 - $110 Interior Dimensions: 16.75" x 11.18" x 6.12" Exterior Dimensions: 18.5" x 14.06" x 6.94" Seahorse 720 - $77 Interior Dimensions: 18.29" x 13.19" x 6.62" Exterior Dimensions: 19.75" x 15.53" x 7.48"
How funny. I will be using a top case for commuting and throwing a duffel on for longer trips. My longer trips will be off-road oriented and I don't want a hard top case on for off-road use.
Anyone used these pelican cases? I can't find any places near me that physically sell the cases. Would like to see them in person. http://www.optimalcaseandlights.com/collections/medium-pelican-cases/products/1430-case
The factory Givi cases look really nice on the Terra, but I only have one complaint, that these style of cases are not ideally suited to an adventure style bike, and are more suited to a road bike. On the Givi luggage racks, there are two small lugs on the bottom of the rack, which fit into slots on the bottom of the case, and the larger mount point on the top which works with the lock mecahnism on the case to secure it to the rack. Although the cases are reinforced around the lugs on the bottom of the case, frequent use, and frequent abuse causes the plastic around these points to fracture and break over time. And that is my experience with Givi luggage on a road bike. My wife has a BMW F650GS which has factory cases (not sure who manufactures these). Hard to describe but i will try. The bottom of the case has a ridge running the entire length of the case. Inside this channel is some high density rubber of some sort. When the case is mounted on the bike, the tube steel rack sits inside this channel, so rather than the case being supported by only a couple of metal lugs, the entire length of the case is supported by the rack, which is insulated from the case by the high density rubber. In addition, the channel on the back of the case which mounts onto the rack is not rigid to the case, it is a separate piece which screws onto the back of the case, secured from inside the case, and has a bit of vertical movement. What this all means, is that the contant vibration of a rough road, or worst case scenario, and tipover, the weight of the case is spread over a very large area, which itself can absorb shock in a number of ways. This youtube very roughly shows this from 1:20 to 1:30 when he's mounting the case. View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t59MiCVOOIs On the couple of times that my wife has had a low speed drop, rather than anything breaking, the force of the impact on the side will just cause the channels on the back of the cases to shift within the vertical frame of reference that they have to move, and it just requires the screws to be slackened off, the case to be repositioned correctly on the rack, and the screws to be tightened again, and all is good. For hard cases, it is the only form of luggage attachment that I have seen which appears to be built with the type of trauma riding an adventure bike will impart onto a luggage system.
1430'S are smaller than they look. I think 1520'S are really ideal for pannier duty. As a comparison, we're talking 913 cubic inches versus 1560 cubic inches.
I have a seahorse. I looked at the Pelicans. The pelican is just a bit more stout, but the seahorse is wonderful for the money. The main difference I noticed between the two is when you close them tight, the pelican seems more rigid at the seal, where there is minimal flex with the seahorse case. If I was carrying thousands of dollars worth of gear in that case, it would make a difference.
I just had my first weekend adventure ride using my BRMoto side racks and Wolfman expedition bags and was very impressed! $490 (including shipping) well spent! The racks were easy to install--maybe took 1/2 hour as I dry fitted first to make sure it all bolted up smoothly and then redid each fastener with a dab of thread lock. The rear support also has the benefit of beefing up the license plate and fender a bit. The Wolfman Expedition bags mounted up easily to the brackets and the thought of a soft side has more appeal to me as I forgot my first time out they were mounted and brushed the chrome bumper of a pickup in tight parking situation at a local sporting event. Had it been a hard bag I think it would have "thunked" more solidly. Part of the options for Wolfmans were adding on up to 4 bottle holsters for $80 bucks and I'm glad I went this route. I also already had various bottles lying around. This trip I decided to mount 2 bottles of gas for about 25 miles of emergency fuel, 1 bottle of water (I had a larger Camelbak too), and 1 bottle holding 750ml of special beverage at the end of each day. I'm not sure I ran all the straps exactly as the manufacturer planned and if I want to remove the bags I'd have to first remove at least 4 of the 8 straps from the bottle holsters....but I'm doubtful I'll be taking these bags off much. Although I may change how I strap them on...the strapping of the Woflmans overall is very well done and confidence inspiring. Not once did I think any bit of the bags would melt on the nearby exhaust pipes. I didn't initially buy them for their water proof qualities, but now glad I did because it also makes them dust proof. After 3 days of riding I accumulated a fair amount of mud and dust on the bike and happy my contents weren't the least bit gritty. Monday and I'm also comfortable I can take the whole affair to a car wash and spray off the bags without risk of water intrusion. Had I not gone with the Woflmans I would have considered the Big Loop, but would have to do something different with how I pack my tent in the passenger seat area. And with the Pelican case I do have a hard case I can lock up my more expensive bits when I have to leave the motorcycle. Going with BRMoto racks I also have an option to go hard cases later on if I want to. After my first trip I've rotated camping bits amongst the two bags, the top case, and tank bag...and quickly finding an arrangement that will work long term. I found a 40 degree sleeping bag and Thermarest that fit nicely in the bag together. I give a 4.5 out of 5 for these racks and bag.
I'm running BRmoto side racks but haven't invested in luggage yet as I'm still not sure what to get, hard or soft. I'm leaning towards soft bags, my buddy says get boxes. His thinking is security and crash protection of contents. I was also thinking soft side bags and a smallish pelican top case to get the best of both. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
That's what I'm doing. I've got soft bags on the side (Wolfman Monarch Pass) and I'll be putting a Seahorse 540 on a BRmoto top rack once available. Add to that a cheap-o dry sack duffle and I should be all set.
There are merits to both. In fact, you might consider getting both. The big thing that many forget is that hard bags weigh more, and add a rigid element that extends beyond the bike. Why does this matter? Drop your bike in the dirt and find out. Hard bags might protect your stuff, but they stand a good chance of hurting YOU in a tipover. Assess what kind of riding you like to do and choose accordingly. If you want to keep the initial investment low on the hard bags, I suggest you go with Seahorse or Pelicans. They work great, have fewer ankle biting corners, and cost less than metal boxes. Use the leftover funds to buy a set of soft bags, and you'll be set for anything.
I just got an update from TCI. The prototyping is done, tooling is being fabricated, and they hope to see production parts in 4-5 weeks. They did confirm that pricing should be consistent with the Outback racks for other models. That makes this a very cost effective option. Skid plate photos coming soon, and will be posted over in the skid plate thread.
My only suggestion is to go back to first principals and really think what you want to take, and how you want to pack it. The only thing that matters is what you want, not other people. The direction I am taking for myself is a rear box large enough for my helmet or groceries for daily use with no side bags (I have the BRMoto side racks), then Wolfman side bags for camping. But what I do not know is whether to put a hard rear box on for camping, or a soft duffle, so I will experiment with duffles I already have and bolt on various boxes I already have until I can learn first hand how each works for me. It is a journey...
I have been happy with a hard rear box and soft sides as well. Like Coffee I use the rear box daily, then add side bags for trips. I keep the rear box on all the time to have a safe, secure place for "stuff" like my GPS, camera, or even wallet when I need to run into some place like a gas station, restroom or restaurant. I may add a duffel ahead of it needed. I haven’t figured out exactly what I want to do on the Terra yet. I am running the Givi box off my Versys for now, but would like a more "adventurous" looking box for it. I am struggling to find one that is not too huge, is quick connect removable and does not look like it came from an army/navy surplus.
I've decided to go with a hard top case and wolfman side bags. Just what my wallet needs. thanks for the advice.
I struggled with the same thing, in the end I found a lot of different boxes that could work. But if, and only if, the boxes could quickly be attached & removed. 'Quickly' is a relative term... with the BRMoto prototype rear rack that I now have it seems quite simple to get to the bolts because the plate is much bigger (and to me better) than the OEM. I am still investigating other options as well.
