It simply bolts right on the Terra uses two flat washers on rear two fender bolts to tip down for clearance that's it fork guards are cheap and gives you new mount for brake hose and speedo wire.
Thanks Bill and thanks to all you Cafe Huskiers out there you convinced me that the TR650 was the right upgrade bike for me! Actually you have just cost me $10K! Just sent my Strada order off to Stefan at R & D Husky here in Sydney and I am going to "borrow" Bill's front fender mod too! Now to get ready for some wrenching. I have read here somewhere that allot of the bolts are Torx, is that right? Any idea's on sizes? Male and female? I don't own torx sockets at the moment so need to put an Amazon order in to get the bike setup for me.
loving the strada with the terra guard on it! trying to make up my mind but i think that would be a well sorted combo for myself, just pick up some wire rims later on if need be im sure the suspension differences are minimal?
Just picked up my Strada and I believe the suspension is exactly the same as the Terra although the geometry is slightly different (due to the rim sizes). Only real differences are the rims, abs and front guard. Strada is great and the brakes are awesome, very impressed. Just pumped out a quick 100km's on my way home from the dealer and love it! Now I need to work out how to change my profile to Strada Tom...
No adjustment on the front. On the rear there is preload, spanner in the toolkit if you happen to have gotten one. There is also rebound damping on the bottom of the shock.
i think those are what came on my Te511 and have been holing up very well to all off road. And soft is not always bad, bending a rim is better than cracking one on a long adventure ride.
On heavier mods...Would it be out of the top to try to fit lighter alu swingarm to Terra ? Maybe from another Husky ? What you reckon ?
I'm taking a cyber break from installing my new Motosportz risers, fat bars and protectors from HDB and wondered what others have done with the left grip. It comes off with two set screws instead of being a friction fit as is typically the case. To put it back I will need to drill and tap the bars; a bit of a pain to get the holes in the right spot, but not too bad. They will be needed for the heated grips in any case. However, meanwhile I may just get some new Husky grips and forego the slip-on. What have the rest of you done on the left side? Also, I have the Pro-Taper Henry Reed bend, and the bars are maybe a half inch longer each side. I'm wondering out loud if the cables are going to reach. I'll know shortly! My new rubber plate mount, from Bills, is finished and I'm happy with it. Here in Texas we have to show our inspection sticker at the back of the bike, and it's typically mounted on an auxiliary plate that hangs down below the license plate, making it vulnerable to damage. Instead of doing that I turned it upside down so that the inspection sticker is directly below the light, where the reflector used to be, and it looks good. Next year the sticker can be right side up again. The rubber mount is marginally lighter than the steel bracket, but the overall install is a lot cleaner, plus the rubber provides some protection for the wires which are exposed under the fender. Pics of everything once the bars are on. Material and some hoops from Berg at Backroads Moto have been ordered and delivered to FabOneUP in Colorado, along with some additional steel and aluminum. The two of us are going to build our own racks for Wolfman saddlebags during the first week or so of February. Our intention is to create a thread for this and update daily as the build progresses.
I am in the process doing the same. I have the taller Motosportz risers and HR Protapers. The cables are log enough. I just had to get some slack in the wires from behind the headlight. The thing I noticed is the controls length on the bars is shorter than stock and everything is pretty tight. In order to get the clutch and brake lever ends to clear the handguards (Cycras) you have to move everything inwards or cut the ball ends off. I really didn't want to do that. I may add some spacers to the bar ends though. I didn't use the stock grips, I added heated grips. Still working on everything.......
Thanks for the details on the bar upgrades, etc. Looking forward to the rest of the story on the bars and the wolfman mounts!
A quick update. Things are apart and look to be that way for a while. I can stretch the clutch cable to the max and get it to reach the closest mounting position, but I don't like the way the cable leads into the perch. More importantly, the bar ends (the 7/8" diameter part) are not long enough to mount the controls the way they need to be positioned. The clutch lever has a very long reach-around to clear the control cluster and I cannot get the clutch perch far enough inboard to get the lever to match up with the grip. I run out of 7/8 and get to the curve/increasing diameter first. When the perch is located too far outboard my first fingers are not on the flat part of the lever, but on the slope that is on the reach-around. The bars need an extra 3/4", maybe 1/2", of small diameter length to work right. Damn! I don't find any replacement Brembo levers that even look like the stock levers, that are made to go around the control/light switch cluster. Guess I'll just have to sit and look at it a while, or look for different bars. Ding! I don't mind cutting the balls, and a little more, off the lever, but I sure don't like the way my fingers fit when I do that. Oh, and a longer clutch cable should be fitted, + 1" min. 'Thinking of trying to reroute the clutch cable inside of the wiring harness at the tripple clamp tube. That might gain me half an inch. On the brake side, it's no go either but i think that can be cured by flipping the holder for the brake line that is screwed to the back side of the headlight housing upside down. Struggling to get it off and flipped but it can be done with a little help. The steel clip is very stout and I will need two pair of pliers and a third hand to get it off, turned, and back on. Nothing is easy!
The continuing saga: After looking at the Pro Taper bend chart, it looks like there are several bars that will work better than the Henry Reed bend. The candidates have 200mm of bar end vs. 180mm on the Henry Reed. This is just enough to make it work. So, the closes to stock bar dimension are 1) KX High, 2) CR Mid and 3) Factory Suzuki/KTM. The KX High are 8mm taller, and 10mm less pull back. These are the bars I will go with. Anyone changing to Pro Tapers, look carefully at the chart. You need the 200mm bar end length to make things work. The stock bars have the perches mounted just a few mm longer than 200, but I think it's negligible. Heck, the lever ends may not have to be shortened either! Now, to see if I can swap bars, or if i have to buy a second set. The stock controls also need some holes drilled as locators. Oh, the left bar grip assembly will not fit over the knurled bar end unless some sanding is done. Looks like I'll be considering some new grips. it's no fun being a Guinea Pig!
Ive got my beautiful Motosportz clamps and am waiting on my ProTaper CR Mid's and my Cycra Pro-Bend hand guards
I was able to get my Henry Reeds, Cycras with triple clamp mounts to work out. Usually handguards are a pain but not this time. The clutch and brake lever clamps are right at the start of the bend. I did not have to cut the lever ball ends off but may just to bring the levers out away from the bend. I spaced the bar ends out about 3/16" in. for the handguards. But knowing what I know now I would go with the longer 200mm length. Also once every thing lined up the bracket behind the headlight for brake lined worked out fine. I just turned it slightly. My clutch cable length seems fine with no binding or pulling. Getting the heated grip over the knurled end was a real bugger tho.
