250-500cc Uh oh...I can't get my "11 WR300 out of 1st gear

standard right hand thread. RTLL

How much oil do I need in my wr 300 transmission. I don't have the manual.

I came up with 27.5 oz. Thats what I run in mine

I've read .84 quart, but I never measure. I just take out the oil level screw on the side cover and fill it till it starts pouring out of the hole.

800 ml or 0. 8 litre

yep what he ^ said

Here's the parts that need to be removed...

Has anyone heard of this happening on 2010 models?

Shawa shifting problem

nice work doug haha I even replied to this thread. cheers mate. so to get to that allen head screw(if that is in fact my issue which it highly sounds like) & tighten it do I need to remove the inner cover or just the basket?

It looks to me like you can just remove the small cover and the basket but I haven't had to do this on my 09 wr250. I think it was the 2010s that got out the door with loose set screws. If I were you I'd just dive in and keep going until you get there.

cool hopefully this wil be my fix & only outer cover & clutch assembly need to be removed. symptoms sound almost identical. thanks heaps doug much appreciated mate. how did you find this in the search section? I posted 'wr300 clutch issues/pictures/shift issues' etc etc but this didn't come up

I knew it was the 2010s that had this problem so I went page by page backward until I found it, I figured it would be post 2010. The searches rarely work for me unless you can remember who started the thread.

ahh okay well thanks for taking the time to do that mate

you guys are bloody geniuses. kids at school so thought id have a crack at this. 27mm nut came off relatively easily with bar jamming up rear wheel(in steel sprocket under swingarm not against spokes!), then inner clutch cover & sure a bloody nuff that f*#kin screw was loose! hopefully that's all it was. thanks again everyone will report back this arvo if I get it all back together in time. also see why water pump hose leaks. I ground off the lateral ridges but not the barb itself so will do that & hopefully no more leaks

she lives again! changes gears fine & no oil or coolant leaks(as of yet). wasn't that hard at all just needed time to have a go. getting to it next time would take 30 mins I reckon! as far as the screw goes I couldnt get it right out like it had damaged threads on the end(got tight as backing it out). didn't wanna risk any further damage to threads to Loctite it so just done it back up as tight as I could. fingers crossed she holds!

as far as clutch adjustment goes I got the lock nut off on end of shaft(10mm nut) & adjusted it as far out as I could but clutch still wants to creep in gear at a standstill. not too bad but ot how it should be. riding it tomorrow so see how it goes. spoke with oldscool on here & he said maybe a warped steel. them & fibres look ok but didn't measure. at 222 hours reckon they've had their day anyway so will order a whole new set of both steels/fibres. if that doesn't cure it then ill file the fingers on the basket as they are slightly grooved. try plates first as its easy & really theyre due. overall everything inside looked brand new(bearings, gears etc)

anyone got a good cheap site for plates/fibres(ebay, bills, halls)?

Looks like the seal for shift shaft is leakin a bit is there any way to clean inside without dismantling again(like fork seal mayb has bit if crud stuck in it?). I'll order a new one when order clutch kit then do it all at once if no good. Not leakin much just a few drops but makes a mess. Is it a special husky only seal or can you get from anywhere? Got a feelin I may have bn a bit rough reinstallin n grooves of shift shaft spline may have cut it

Can u replace this shifter seal without takin inner cover off?

You probably could if you can get the old one out.

I'm resigned to the fact cover will need to come off. Might try get old one out with screwdriver but prob damage somethin