I think that you are right about it being aluminium. I can't find a magnet with my workshop being moved. I am not sure that it'll be any tougher than the 610 sub-frame. It still has some of the same problems in its construction.
I am a bit worried the information I provided may not be accurate! Weights indicated were only for comparision purposes between Suzuki and Husky. Used a set of bathroom scales that are perfectly fine for differences but may not accurate for total weight. Will weigh bike tomorrow with accurate scales. As for the subframe, pictures I have seen were aluminum with no paint. Mine is painted black and looks too slight to be alum. Will check with magnet when I weigh bike. At work now but am anxious to straighten this out.
I'll see if the local produce warehouse will let me roll my SM610 on their scales to see what it weighs with a full tank of gas.
Bathroom scales can be very accurate if you use the right technique. Find a block of wood that is the same height as the scale and place one wheel on the scale and the other on the block. Record the reading, reverse wheels and iterate. Sum the readings and that's the weight of the bike as indicated from your scale. You can check the scale for repeatability by standing on it and recording your weight ten times. Then look at the percentage change among the ten readings and that's the error. You've picked the right scale if your weight is mid-range on the dial. Now the scale may just be way out of calibration, then you'd have to get a known weight and establish a calibration curve, which is not too hard to do, but rolling the bike into the produce warehouse will be a lot easier. Good luck.
I used to roll my bikes up on two bathroom scales and then add the two amounts, but somewhere down the line I lost one. My father used to weigh himself down at the produce place when he went over 300 lbs and I hope they remember him and let me use their scale.
I relented... 151kg (332lbs) with about 4 litres (2kg) of of fuel and extras such as Hyde bash plate and hand guards (say 2kg). It seems that the bare bike is under the 149Kg spec. That is not too bad. I expect the bike to weigh in at around 165kg by the time that I am done with it. I can live with it.
I have the 2011 630TE. I never rode the 610. I am having problems with power, and I have to wonder if all these positive comments about the new 630 are Husky promoters, dealers, and not consumers who actually own the bike. I mean, one guy on here says the 630 is a power-beast once you do the power-up "kit." But the dealer in my area says there is no kit as such, but only the O2 sensor is removed and the fuel injection remapped. My fuel injection "remapping" SUCKS. The dealer is saying the 610 WAS a power rocket, but the 630 just is not. ???? All that displacement has to go somewhere, so re-re-map the FI, and I hope that after this Thursday I will be singing a different tune. Oh, the seat seems to be fine, though. I have been doing 50 miles per day nonstop, and I feel nothing. If anyone out there is also a 630 owner, please tell me the specs your FI was tuned to, so I can clue in my dealer. He wants me to try a smaller front sproket.... Trying to be happy, but running out of enthusiasm.
My TE630 replaced a Suzuki DRZ400s with lower gearing and 3x3 airbox mods. Major disapointment when I first got my 630. Engine had rough idle, cut out, spit and sputtered and only seemed slightly more powerful than the outgoing Suzuki. The power-up kit totally transformed the bike! Seat of the pants power increase of about 50% and smooth running etc,etc. Happy camper now! Power-up kit consists of a fitting to screw into the 02 sensor hole and a plug with a resistor to tell the ECU to revert to race mode. Remaping will help but the PU kit is cheap and fast and provides the desired results. Also changed very high stock gearing 15/42 to a much better 14/45.
Sorry too hear your 630 ain't proving so great yet, but to hopefully clarify, the power up kit on the 630 is the o2 sensor removal (which means a plug too tell the ECU that the sensor is still there and everything is running a ok and a remap of the onboard map for your location (mainly altitude related) and the new non euro 3 restricted fuel and air. I can't help with how my bike is FI'd but depending on what country you're in maybe it'd be worth you calling another dealer (preferably a long standing importer) who's sold a few more of the bikes and knows how to set them up. Mine was set up by Huskysport in the UK who setup my 08' 610 too and they have done an awesome job. Good luck getting it sorted, and don't feel bad talking too other dealers if you believe your dealer is unsure of what to do. Does the bike wheelie at full power in 1st, 2nd, 3rd?? Can you clutch it up in higher gears? These are always good measures of power on these bikes. BTW what have you ridden previously?? If you've ridden 1000cc inline four nakeds them maybe you're expecting too much from a 600cc single cylinder?
My 06 610 will suck the side panels off a DRz400, KLR650, DR650 with any mods short of a Turbo. It is smooth and fast up from 0-90mph. The 630 has to be better yet, thought i have not ridden one.
Crogromphulous, I have a '11 TE 630. I have iBeat and I made sure my FB values were all at 100%. I then removed the lambda/02 sensor and installed the p/u parts. I set TPS. Now in p/u mode it gives the CO adjustment options. I made sure those were all left at 100%. Bike is so much more rideable now. I havent ridden a 610 and I haven't really released the hounds yet on my 630 but it has a lot more power then the modded DRZ 400S I sold to get this. I think you will be much happier with the p/u parts installed. Husky part #'s 8000 A7724 8000 A7749 8000 A6750 Not much to the p/u parts. These and a copper washer for the exhaust cap.
HTM Racing. Very good and fast service. http://www.htmracing.it/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=116&Itemid=121&lang=en
Is it advisable to do the Lambda sensor removal mod if one is going to be riding mostly at altitude (colorado)? Or, is there an alternative resistor plug for high altitude operation?
Altitude or no altitude i'd remove the plug and have your fuel setting set for your altitude, the bike will run a lot better especially at altitude where the plug will be finding more and more contaminents due too the low oxygen level meaning increased Carbon Monoxide creation will mean the bike will be told too run less well. The plug is simply put there too appease the Euro 3 nazi's who have set the regulations for our bikes well above and beyond most cars when our engines are smaller and burn a lot less fuels.. But without getting all political the change in the bike is remarkable.
