125-200cc Uptite 167

I had my 167 at the shop Friday and let my mechanic ride it. He had ridden my WR 144, liked it but was kind of ambivalent. He got on the CR167 and I couldn't get him off it. He was in love. He is an old desert racer from the mid-60's to the early 80's and prefered big bores. His comment was that it ran better everywhere than any 250 he had back in the day and was still light and responsive like a 125. Didn't have 450/500 grunt but that was a good thing in his mind. At 65+ I think he is almost willing to risk the rath of she who must be obeyed and get one.

On another note I think George is working on trying to be able to bore the new oem 144 to the 167. That would leave only about 3 years of 125's that probably won't be able to make the change. Just an FYI.

Oh, my does George need a guinea pig?

That's good to know, If I decide to sell my 250 and get a 11, CR150, I could do one in 167, have 125, and 150.

Hey guys anymore ride reports and updates on these?

Are you able to drill out the newer style cylinder to the 167?

Also, what are you guys using for Carbs, Jetting, etc.....

Hoping to take it out on another ride this weekend (gonna be a kid ride as I'm on call and have to stay close...)

Great, once you get some riding in post all your settings, carb, powervalve, etc.......

Kevin is still in break in mode but I expect him to end up with a 180-182 main, NOZF needle in the fourth spot(he is currently using a EEK in the fourth but with the NOZF I expect him to be able to reduce his main to a 180). His pilot is a 42. His power valve linkage is adjusted about 1/3 of the way up with a yellow/green spring combination. His bike runs awsome with a wonderful powerband that chugs up a storm and moves even my fat assss in the mid. Hasn't really been allowed to howl yet.

My CR167 was the bomb at sea level. I tried but never really got it to stall. I could handle virtually any of the hills and climbs at the Laughlin, NV OHV area in 3rd to as high as 6th gear(13x49 gearing) rarely needed 2nd. This area has a lot of pretty technical trails as they advertise the BITD race there as the most technical of the year. The 167 ruled this area. Only place where I think it could be more was in some of the deeper sand areas but you need serious big bore power if you want to dominate there. We had a fresh, great running CR144 with modified PV's running at the same time and other than a very slight advantage above 10K it was no contest from a rideability stand point. The 167 just is so cool at 1000' as it can handle anything without being on the pipe but still absolutely rips when you want it. Still feels and handles like a 125.....does it get any better.

My jetting at 1000': 480 main, 17-62 RM needle in the 4th slot, 35 pilot and 2.5 turns out on the air speed. Only issue is that it was still to rich at and just right off idle. It would pull great everywhere else but we needed to go to a 32 pilot and maybe back to the 50 idle jet instead of the 80. I am going to go back to the PWK for the season here in Montana as the elevation changes are just too huge and the TMXX will be problematic. 5000' of elevation change in a ride is just hard for any carb to cope with.

Walt what pwk are you going to be running on your 167? I have 38mm but want to wait till I get it broke in before I switch it over.Maybe I can get it broke in by May the way the weather is here in NY
Bill

Bill,

I am using a 38mm airstriker. I was going to go with a 36 from Dwight Rudder's buddy but after riding it extensively with the TMXX 38, it pulls the bigger carburation great. I will get you exact figures for what I am running once the snow leaves.

I have the NOZF (#2 pos) and a 175 main and 38 pilot on my WR150 PWK 38mm. Works good. ( I am currently running the 36mm PWK. Works better). You honestly think that the 167 will need bigger jets with the increased vacuum signal at jets ? I would think that the 167 would need smaller jets or the same. Not bigger.

Sounds great, that is why I am hanging on to the PWK 38. I think that is gonna be the carb for the bigger bores. I will try it on the 144 as well and if it don't work I'll get in contact with Dwight's friend and try the 36. I don't want to make a move on a new carb till I match the ported EG 144 cylinder, your PV mods and a new pipe to see what happens.

Dwight,

I don't quite understand what is going on with the 167 and its need for larger jets. I fully expected to go smaller than the 144 at first but it is where it wants to be. I can say that I get better mileage with the 167 than the 144 even with the larger jet size. I attribute that to taller gearing and being able to ride off the pipe a gear high making traction in the really tight stuff. I do think the 36 would be better for the 167 as you really won't be using the motor above 10k that much. I can say I never had a point where I sensed any hesitation from the motor due to low vacuum and large throttle openings. In fact if anything it seemed to really respond to large inputs anywhere below the power valve opening. I look forward to hearing your thoughts and experience with the 36 and the 167.

I hope when I finally get the 167 kit on that I get better fuel economy. I am thus far only getting about 14.3mpg on the 150 under race conditions.

Update : After more jetting and setting my float level twice, I am now getting 18+ mpg. Acceptable.

Those who have the 167cc kit installed, what gearing is everyone using in tight woods and eastern woods racing conditions ? On my WR150 (144cc) , I am running 13/52 gearing and have been very happy. I figure that I will have to go to a 14T for sure but will I need a 50T rear or should I stay with the 52T ???

Dwight,

I am running 13x49 in tight steep stuff and that gearing was way too short for the desert OHV outside Laughlin,NV. Keep your 52 rear and try the 14T.

Right'0 ! Thanks. That would be just slightly taller than your 13/49.

Does anyone know what year CR 125 stator and flywheels will fit an '09 WR125? J have been trying to find a solid answer on this but havnt come up with much. I recently purchased a '06 cylinder and power valve set up so that I can start my 167 project. It looks like the CR coil is the same since '99 or so. I also picked up a FBF dual map ignition and switch for $250. Not a steal but better than full price. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just picked up this bike off Ebay which has the factory 144 kit already on it. Ordered the power valve spring kit from Halls as well. Trying to get it all squared away before next race season starts. I live by Drew Smith so I am super stoked for him to do the suspension seeing he rides the same bike besides it being a 125. If anyone has a complete list of whats needed to do this conversion that would be great! Thanks!

Walt would be your man, i think the flywheel and stator will fit but check with him as to wether or not the factory 144 can be bored out to 167.

Motocrossmr,

I asked Walt several months ago about getting the FBF ignition on my 2008 CR, and here it went something like this:

Walt,

Were you able to devise a connector to get the FBF ignition to work with the late-model CR wiring harness? The ignition on my 2008 has a different connector than the FBF, and I thought I heard you mention you had the same situation. My hope is that you figured out a super simple, plug and play adaption, but my secret belief is that I will be doing som cutty-splicey...

Just buy the wiring harness for the CR 250 and it is plug and play. The number is 8000 91962 any dealer can get it for you. I want to say it is ~$25. On the 09 it has a connector before the cdi so you can remove the stator without pulling the whole wiring harness. Does the 08 have this? I know the older CR 125's wiring was one piece but they used the right connecter.

Let me know,
Walt

Full disclosure, I bought the stuff, but I haven't actually put it on the bike, yet. It was running so well with the stock setup that I just never took the time to do it. I plan to do the conversion this winter when I'm putting on my new 165 from Walt.

Dave,

Are you going to let me ride it?

Rich