And just for the non-Aussies, the hot/cool months in Darwin need to be put into perspective... daytime temps about 1.5F and nighttime temps about 3F lower in the "cool" months.
Hi NTT Yeah it does the same as others, lowering the Air Intake Temp between 15-20 degrees C. Just got that Brand cause it was cheaper than all the others(and no replacement of AIT Sensor necessary) plus the company had lots of success with BMW's. Hope your plugs will help, although I doubt it, but let us know your experience anyway. Guess unplugging your Wuka makes it get back worse, even with new plugs, guess you can save that time for other things... As the problem is usually only at slow speed in traffic situations, I suggest to change transmission (Front/Back-sprocket), its a totally different driving, in a positive way. But you should not be sensitive to higher revs if you do that.... ;-)
I think it must be the humidity that the bike doesn't like. As Nev said, not much of a change in temperature, but it sure is a hell of a lot more uncomfortable! Been shocking this season, we even broke the record for a minimum temp of 29.9C!
Well, I finally got my new plugs this morning and chucked em straight in. I didn't disconnect the wuka yet, just wanted to be able to notice any difference from the plugs only. Let the bike idle for three minutes to make its own adjustments and took it for a short spin around the block. It feels smoother through the rev range and a lot smoother on decel. No stumbles yet, but I've had premature ejaculations over that issue being resolved before! (Sorry, Aussie humour!) I'll leave it as is, unless (until) it stumbles, then disconnect the Wuka and see how that goes. So far, so good *crosses fingers*
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the bike is booked in Friday to get derestricted. Yeehah!!! I'll disconnect the wuka and let them moss it and see what that does.
I was living in Darwin for a while one night in April it dropped down to 13.7 degC, bugga THAT was cold ! Ha ha ha
Well, the bike was booked in for today, but I just received the awesome news that it will take 'up to a month' before the shop can get the throttle bracket. Not happy Jan !
Travel about 600 km with LC2. AFR a hint of smaller and Husky woke up properly . The target value is now 13.2. In practice, the log shows 13.5. I should probably re-calibrate the lambda, or it just need more fuel in cold weather. Bike felt good for earlier but now its feel great
Not sure why I see people fooling with these Spoofers. They rarely work, you can make them yourself for a fraction of what they sell for. Why not go for something tried and true like a power commander 5. Disconnect the stock 02 sensor and let this machine run the way it was supposed to be. OR add the Autotune Module like I did and have it monitor your settings for you once a base map is made. Command your own afr. . It's Much easier to do than Install spoofer, Hope for some changes to happen..... I installed this on my Terra 650 and haven't looked back since. it's 10x more responsive, I see no fuel mileage loss, starts easier, idles better, and runs amazing. I also gained 4.5 PEAK RWHP on the dyno when I was tuning it topping out at 50.5 rwhp, 45 rwhp was stock power. These run VERY rich top end past 6750 No spoofer is going to correct this amount. Plus give you the acceleration pump feature to bring that snap into the throttle. It's so smooth now, it's ridiculous. I can easily loft the front end into 3rd gear. stock tuning it was a struggle to get the tire up in second without popping the clutch. Just so you know. 12.7-12.8 yielded the best RWHP. I gained about 1.25 hp over 13.2 afr.
It is good to hear the PC5/Autotune is working for you. When I see a good number of other positive reports I may try it. I still see issues on here about the tried & true power commander. The installs dont seem in any way easier than the plug & play Wuka spoofer. As such dropping $500-600 on a PC5/Autotune has not really been an option for me yet. I will say dropping $90 on the plug & play Wuka was pretty easy to do and for me it seems to work. I am confused why its results are not constant with this bike.
I've used $250 add on fuelers in the past and had so so results. Had a "Booster Plug" that worked great at curing the surge and touchy throttle on my 2007 Tiger 1050 and so far the $20 "Eruption" mod has worked great. When the dust settles and we see what the most sensible mod is and I start having problems I might make a move. Till then I'll watch and learn...
LC2 spoofs the ECU into believing an altered o2 reading from the exhaust stream. Since the ECU is sampling for that information all the time anyway it assumes it is seeing the right condition and adjusts accordingly. It does not "learn" and negate this reading for the same reasons. I believe the only true fix will come when the ECU hex codes are finally broken. Until them (for me) this is the best option available other than the PCV
You're welcome to your opinion, but the guys making the spoofers sell hundreds of them to BMW owners and TR owners with the same engines. I suspect dozens have been sold just to CafeHusky TR owners, and all by word of mouth from people who have bought them and fitted them and shown that they do make an improvement to the bike. What are you basing your assertion that they rarely work on? Yes you can make them yourself for a fraction of the cost, but a) if you're asserting that they rarely work then why would you bother making your own and b) not everyone has the time, the patience, the necessary tools, the inclination, the skill to make their own, and the plug and play spoofers take little skill to install and are hard to get wrong. I'm not sure I compute. Above you suggest that a homemade solution is preferable to a spoofer, which costs about 500% more than the parts required to make your own, and then in the next sentence you advocate that the best solution is a different commercial product which costs 500% more than the spoofers. Much easier to install than spoofer? I protest!. The wuka spoofer install 1. remove the seat and left fairing. 2. unplugging the airbox temp sensor 3 plug the spoofer inline between the loom and the sensor 4. positioning the temp probe somewhere. 5. reinstall the fairing and seat. 6. Have a cold beer and marvel at your technical prowess. PV5 install 1 Remove the seat. 2 Remove the right side fairing 3 Use the supplied velcro to secure the PCV module to the forward left corner of the bike’s battery. Clean both surfaces with the supplied alcohol swab prior to attaching the velcro. 4 Secure the ground wire of the PCV wiring harness with the 6mm ring lug to the negative terminal of the bike’s battery. 5 Route the PCV wiring harness towards the front of the bike following inside of the fuel tank’s recess for the fuel hose. 6 Locate and unplug the stock wiring harness connector from the bike’s Fuel Injector The Fuel Injector is located on top of the throttle body. 7 Use the supplied zip-tie to secure the PCV wiring harness to the fuel line at the location shown in Figure D.8 Plug the PCV wiring harness in-line of the Fuel Injector and the stock wiring harness. 9 Route the remainder of the PCV wiring harness down the right side of the throttle body in between the air box and the fuel tank. 10 Unplug the stock wiring harness connector from the bike’s Throttle Position Sensor 11 Plug the PCV wiring harness in-line of the TPS and the stock wiring harness 12 Route the BROWN/WHITE and the WHITE/BROWN wires of the PCV wiring harness down the right side of the engine towards the Regulator/Rectifier. 13 Locate the BLACK 2 pin connectors for the bike’s Crank Position Sensor directly below the Regulator/Rectifier 14 Use the supplied posi-taps to connect the PCV crank position wires to the stock crank position wires. Attach the WHITE/BROWN wire of the PCV to the WHITE/YELLOW stock crank position wire. Attach the BROWN/WHITE wire of the PCV to the BLUE/YELLOW stock crank position wire. 15 Locate and unplug the bike’s stock o2 sensor connectors (Fig. H). This connector is located on the left hand side ofthe cylinder head. You can trace the wires coming out of your o2 sensor to this connector. The stock o2 sensor will no longer be connected to anything. It can be removed from the exhaust if desired. 16 Reinstall the seat and body panel 17. Have a beer. You need it after all that work.
Booster plugs work fine. I installed it and travelled 8000 klm, then it started running lean/stumbles again. I disconnected the BP and rode for 1500 klm. (Normalizing period?? & probably didn't need to go that far but) After this I reconnected the BP and covered 5000 klm so far and all is good. "I'm just waiting on a friend" (RS) to crack the flippin code!!
There have been a couple mentions of cracking the "code" inside the ECU. The thing that is being overlooked with that line of thought is that unless the "jailbreak" eliminated Closed Loop operation, there would be very little change in the bike's performance since Closed Loop and the O2 sensor will still govern fueling.
My Booster Plug has given me more than 15,000 klms reliable service, no complaints from me, also have Pod airfilter (4,000 klms ago) & GPR (11,000 klms ago) exhaust
......so I disconnected the wuka to take the bike to get mossed and derestricted (which didn't happen). Didn't get to ride it until this morning, because of torrential rain. Well, from running a lot better last week with the new brisk plugs and wuka connected, today the bike ran worse than ever before. I could only just keep it from stalling, even when I was ready for the stumble. Anyone who wasn't ready or new of the problem would have stalled every time they dropped the clutch. Life and death sh!t! It wasn't even that bad when I bought it. I didn't run the bike for 3 minutes, or perform an ecu reset, so I wonder if the bike had adapted the wuka temp and now is overcompensating for the real ambient temp, making it run even leaner?
