I did, as soon as I understood & measured the airbox temperature, the cable needs to be extended, 2 wires, soldered, heat-shrink etc, I'll post a photo later
Whoops on it's side The other is $2 clear plastic fuel filter from Autobarn, l use as the crankcase vent, the bowl faces downwards, any oil will drain back into the crankcase Quite a bit of air pressure is noted at the outlet
I've been seriously testing the 11 ohm resistor inseries with the re-posistioned AIT With what l thought reasonable results, nearly 30 litres of 98RON consumed Then suddenly the engine started to vibrate & really not well Aha, l thought the ecu has done it's adapt out Today l took the Safari tanks off What did l find? Both Head frame bolts had come loose ! Fortunately the RH Safari tank had prevented the bolt being lost Tomorrow another Dyno run to see if performance has settled or the ecu has adapted out I'm testing the AIT, it doesn't appear to be linear, at "normal" ambient temperatures
I was thinking more on the lines of this. Actually tapping into the intake hose to get true intake temps.
My final 'fix' on the AIT Sensor story is to extend the wires and have the sensor in the air intake box - It lies in the lower part of the box quite nicely with the wires fed in through the drain hole at the rear of the intake. With the sensor in this position it measures pretty close to the real temperature of the air entering the engine, particularly at higher running speeds. I then have my $1 Variable Resistor Spoofer wired in and the whole thing works a treat - I can have real air temp or spoofed as much as I like to make the bike run well. Remember to plug the original AIT Sensor hole with something that can not be drawn up into the airbox - I used a replacement rubber chair leg foot, having bought a pack of four for another $1, this is becoming an expensive mod
VFORCEJOHN... If you are still hanging around this forum, I recently acquired a 2013 TR650 Strada from a friend and it has all of the stock problems with stumbling off idle, etc. Are you still in the business of helping folks like me figure out what's needed with the PC5 and maps to get this thing running in top shape? Many, many thanks...!!
There hasn't been anyone playing around with PCs/ spoofers etc since the ECU upgrades following the official recall. Contact your nearest KTM dealer with your VIN number to check if your ECU has been upgraded or not. Which country are you in?
Yes I am. I've been trying to reflash this ECM. the PCV like all the spoofers, after time it goofs up. I've dynoed, mapped, datalogged and mapped. split tuned between gears. and eventually it runs crappy again. THen it runs great again. heres where I'm at. I need pinout connections to read this with a bench flash like KTAG. I've spent DAYS AND DAYS trying. heres where my research has stopped. with ECM access. Immobilizer goes off, and we tune it properly with proper lambda targets. this shouldnt be as hard as it is. however I seem to choose all the machines that are impossible and have been discontinued. I'll keep trying. I know no one that can flash these. any help anyone can assist with. PLEASE email me Vforcejohn@yahoo.com
Thanks for the reply. After deciding I am in no way capable of going down the road you're trying with the stock ECM, I bought a Power Commander and Autotune module. However, I'm at a total loss on how to access the connectors around the throttle body to plug in the kit, short of disassembling the entire subframe and removing the fuel tank... which of course is where everything in the kit is supposed to be mounted. Any tips?
