On the latter, why I wouldn't buy a lithium battery for my motorcycle, plus the cost is stupid IMO. Saving 5lbs on a 350lb bike also makes no sense to me. It's still a heavy pig of a dirtbike. Or as we tend to say, it is what it is. LOL. Let's see, at $250 that's $50 a pound to save weight, which is not in my reality. But then it doesn't make sense to me to spend a grand on an exhaust system to save five or ten pounds either. I'm getting more practical in my old age. On the former, I did a little research here on AGM's...from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun, a company I trust about batteries, they are an outstanding supplier of low voltage components, and solar equipment: AGM's have a very low self-discharge - from 1% to 3% per month is usual. This means that they can sit in storage for much longer periods without charging than standard batteries. The Concorde batteries can be almost fully recharged (95% or better) even after 30 days of being totally discharged. They have an excellent FAQ on batts in general here: http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html It looks like we both need to give a little on how they hold up - they discharge a bit less than I thought and a bit more than you thought. I also suspect as they age their rate increases, or their peak capacity diminishes, so I hold to my claim that they need to be on a trickle charger if you're not going to use the machine for more than a couple of weeks. I know from experience if you don't maintain them they will measure out at about 12.4V which is about 50-60 percent of charge. Not where I want my battery to be sitting for when I want to cold-start the bike and ride it. I want it closer to 80-90%. Plus if you leave it discharged it diminishes its capacity over time and shortens its overall life. PWC's (personal watercraft) are highly known to have ruined batteries from sitting over winter. They all have a motorcycle type agm starting battery.
I got an EarthX for my 250 and it seems to work great. The only thing with those is that the fasteners they use for the EarthX are huge (M6?), I had to drill out the holes on the battery connectors to fit the EarthX. @CJBROWN which model AGM did you get from Battery Mart for the 630? How fast is their shipping? Thanks
http://www.batterymart.com/p-ytx14-...Category_Code=husqvarna-te610e-sm610s-battery $50 free ship, one year warranty. I think it took about 2-days. And now I'm on their mailing list and get something in my inbox almost every day. LOL The way everyone carries on about batteries I was really skeptical. A Yuasa from MCSS is about $80 IIRC. Even a Walmart powersport batt is about $65 - which I have used before and they were fine. I think they come from Johnson-Controls and quality is decent. But I figured for fifty bucks I'd give it a whirl, if it was junk and crapped out I'd go a different route. The external quality is the same as any other powersport battery I've used. I installed it about a year ago and so far it is just like any other agm powersports battery I've used over the years. I keep a smart charger on it when it's parked in the garage for long periods - a Shumaker smart charger from wally-fart. Most of my riding miles get put on the Tiger 800. EDIT. I'm now shopping for house batteries for the motorhome. I put 2 6V golf cart batteries in series in it and they have been absolutely fantastic. Like 220AH of power. That was 7 years ago. One of them finally won't hold charge, looks like a shorted plate. The other one is still good. They were $75 back then, likely costco or Sam's. So everybody raves about Trojan - list is $190 each. I found a retailer out here that sells them for $120 each so I'll likely go that route. US Battery has them for about ten bucks less but the cases are lighter and they tend to bulge over time. And of course they are an unknown quantity (quality). For a seven year life the extra $20 is well worth it for the top brand I guess.
I disconnect my negative cable if I am not going to ride it the next day. I hook it back up and put the tender on it before riding. Usually only takes 5 minutes or less to get the green light. Still on the stock Yuasa's.
Too fiddly. A SAE connector is a lot more convenient, plus can be used for other accessories like pump, phone charger, heated vest, etc. One of my dealers installs one on every new bike so they can keep the batts topped up on the floor. So their bikes come with one. These are about $2 at an electronics parts store. I put fused leads on the accessories I plug in, or you can wire in a fuse holder.
I tried to start mine yesterday and it was dead. I put the battery (A Battery Mart battery but I do not know how old) on the charger yesterday but today it still won't even turn the lights on when I turn the key today. I need to check for a blown fuse but I suspect I will be buying a battery. It's partially my fault because I have battery tenders on all my bikes but this one lol.
I found this on the Husaberg forum and it does an excellent job of explaining some of the technical differences with the different battery options. It's up to you what would satisfy your needs and your budget. These types of threads (like threads on oil or tires) can quickly turn into a complete a waste of time due to overbearing opinions based more on what was read vs. real life experience.
As a matter of fact, in Ballistic bateries the cells are 4 or a multiple of it: and here they say that the Ballistic Professional Intelligent Digital Balance Charger has "the ability to charge each cell or series individually." I had a friend who had an SM 610. He spent much money trying to lessen its weight: he removed the battery and installed a little capacitor in lieu. He used to start the bike (making great efforts) with a kickstarter he installed. He removed the honk, the passenger footpegs, etc. and, eventually, he said that, considering the weight removed and the weight added, the bike was something like 13 kg lighter. He was jealous of his bike and never let me ride it, but I got on it without starting it and it really seemed to be much lighter than mine, which was totally OEM. He said that, if you remove a gram here and another there, in the end you'll have removed kilos. Yes, a CRF is lighter, but its reliability is much worse. When my OEM battery failed, I installed the lithium one both in order to save weight and to fix an issue: the older one was all dented and, at that time, I didn't use to have trackdays and to jump in dirt sections of SM tracks. I thought that landing from jumps would have been even worse for the battery. The little Ballistic is protected by polystirene sheets (since it's small, there's room for them) and doesn't have the same problem. Furthermore, since it's dry, there's no possibility of acid leaks.
I am not concerned about weight savings, these are heavy bikes and for the type of riding I do, I doubt I really doubt I would even notice a lighter battery lol. I just ordered a Yuasa yesterday, I have had good success with them so we'll see.
My battery was dead as well, so I went to the dealer today and picked up this puppy for about 160. It's smaller than the existing battery was, and amazingly light. It's almost comically light. Shit, my Lipo for my Traxxas Slash weighs more than this thing does. It's easily 1/5th the weight of the battery I took out of the Husky. Amazing. Bike fired right up, too. :thumb It's got a pretty cool battery indicator on the top as well where you can see how full the battery is. The box is the same size as the battery that came out of the Husky.
Picked up the same battery, It's tiny. 8.8 lbs/4kg lighter than stock. Works so far. WPS and te630 stock:
I've had good luck so far with my shorai. I've had it for about 2 years so far. No trickle charger what so ever. The starter spins a lot faster than the yuasa did. When it's cold, I have yet to try to start without bumping the start button 2 or 3 times to warm it up, so I'm unsure of cold cold starting. It's being tested right now for long term storage since I had my wrist operated on. I took the bike for a 20 mile ride the day before surgery, and put it on the stand and disconnected the battery. I will check it in a couple months when I'm able to turn a wrench!
Shorai in my 04 tc450 3 years still great, when cold starting crank it 3 or 4 times to warm it up and fires better than lead acid. Lead Acid batteries lasted 2 seasons tops- bike vibrates, real rocky rough terrain, you could shake one of them and hear the plates rattle.
The LiPo from GridRunner has the battery tester button slightly lowered, but they look similar in size. After installing the new battery it's nice to have free space under the seat for a little compressor I'm using.
