All 2st Which Coolant for my WR 300 that I just blew up

I feel like I hijacked this thread but I thought my issue was relevant. The tough part is this bike never overheated previously but after I crushed my radiators in a crash and had them rebuilt it has been an ongoing issue.

I did have to run it after the crash for about 8 miles without fluid that circulated.

I will check the jetting.

Just want my good running bike back!

no worries about over running this thread. all of this is useful to me as well since i never really figured out what caused me to lose all my fluid and overheat thus causing my top end dilemmas. all of the remarks have clued me in to things i need to check once i get this puppy back together. Thanks for contributing to my solution.

yes i was nearly bone dry once i took the hoses off in preparation to remove the top end. That is what clued me in to a possible coolant failure that caused this whole fiasco. I have a few things that have made me scratch my head. The first was the bad O-ring in the top of the cylinder cover - this may have caused me to leak out all my fluid and overheat. Also, the V-force Reed boot appears to be cracking around the square part and this makes me wonder if I have a vacuum leak there somewhre also. Crazy stuff as this motor only has 342 miles on it.

Yes, keep a sharp eye on the reed/intake boot. It cracks easily and deteriorates quickly. I had to replace mine on my '11 wr300 after about 1.5 years (or 41 rides, 1,100 miles, bought new). Replace ASAP if its condition is suspect.

thats crazy, I had a season on my wr300 and I just replaced the boot. I noticed it while the bike was in tbe bed of my truck and attributed it to taking the carb on and off a few times. It seemed kinda hard on the boot. I think the PWK is a hair longer.

My boot was cracked also after only a year of riding. I finally replaced it for good measure, but none of the cracks went through the boot that I could see. There was a thread on Thumpertalk where a guy took Engine Ice and tested it and was pretty positive that it was 60% polypropylene glycol and 40% water. I went to Napa bought a gallon of Sierra Low Tox which is polypropylene glycol and mixed it with 40% distilled water. I used to have issues with 50/50 ethylene glycol and water on steep slow hills. Water wetter helped, but it would still push steam out of the overflow. I haven't had an issue since switching over, even in nasty stuff where my buddies' bikes are steaming. This is my experience, yours may vary.

I am going to check that boot on the reed cage tonight.
My bike is an 09 and has some miles on it. I have read multiple times on here about issues with the reed cage and some leakage issues around it so I will check it out.
Does anyone have an idea of how to check for leaks there other than the visually obvious cracks?
Forgive my ignorance please.

I got tired of replacing the boot so I had these guys make me a new boot a cople years ago and have had no more issues
http://hotfootmoto.net/store/home.php

many on here have recommended to put gaskets on both sides of the reed cage - one on cylinder side and one where boot meets cage. Factory gasket was not sufficient apparantly.

thanks for that link. Too bad someone doesnt clue Husky in on this issue. I ordered an OEM from Halls or I would be doing this for sure. Once this one wears out - I will try these guys out? Do you remember how much it cost you?

I think it was around $100 but it was worth it to me, was going through to many OEM ones. I have noteced my wr125s doing the same

http://hotfootmoto.net/store/product.php?productid=18557&cat=260&page=1

Almost an easy answer could be "Anything but the stock junk would be an improvement"....

When I needed the water pump seal replaced due to the milky oil syndrome, I made the mistake of ordering the parts at 3am after a night out with some old friends, a few pints of Guinness, and a couple shots of Patron, needless to say when looking at the parts diagram (it should have been diagrams) I forgot to include the seal itself and just ordered the sleeve and o-ring. So since I wanted to ride I replace them only and have had no issue with milky oil since. The sleeve was pitted and corroded on the coolant side.

Ok, I looked at my reed cage last night and it looks like there is a small crack on the exterior but I am not sure if it is just a little imperfection in the plastic or a crack. I am going to look closer at it tonight and try to snap a picture or two.

I don't have mikly oil that I have noticed but I have been suspicious that I may have a water pump issue.

I will check my specs on my rings and piston to see if that is out of whack. I think the more I hear and read I may have an air leak.

Bout ready to give up though and send it someone I have to pay...darn.

I drained my oil last month and it was white, but I wasnt down on coolant. When yours was leaking how fast did you lose coolant?? Several people said I probably just got water through the breather tube from some very wet rides and deep creek crossings. Hoping I dont have the same issue as you.

It never was actually leaking to my knowledge. The leak must have been internal. I usually check my coolant regularly but i haven't even really had much time to ride this year. So what I think happened was that once the O-ring in the top of the cylinder went bad, the coolant began leaking then. I do recall seeing some real white smoke out the silencer so i think it kind of all happend at once and then it overheated and here I sit. I just got it back from Halls today. Im anxious to put it back together but a bit nervous not knowing if any further issues are down below. I just do not want to split the case if I can help it..

I changed the tranny oil two weeks ago and it was also white (for the very first time) and less viscous than normal, but my coolant level was normal. I then noticed the crankcase breather tube and union missing and I had previously been on some very wet rides, so thinking I sucked in some water...great. Haven't noticed any adverse effects though.

Well 2 times I changed the oil it was milky but the rad was full, per say, I was through a few puddles and though maybe it was getting in thru the breather. 3rd time I changed it it was slightly below the cooling fins so I topped it off. We were a week from our Enduro so I just wanted to nurse it through as I had a section I needed to work. Then it overheated and was really low. So I was pretty sure it was the pump seal. But as I said the sleeve was the problem. I was figuring I would be replacing it anyway but needed the bike so was willing to wait till after the event. But I would replace it anyway if your going to do it and not just the sleeve. It's to cheap of a part not to.

I am ordering the new intake boot. Thanks for the link. I looked closer last night and I definitely have a crack there.

I am really hoping that was/is my issue.
I am also going to get two new gaskets for either side of the reed cage. Are those something I could cut from gasket material or do I need to order the premade ones?