Why can't I get my bars straight?

bump for photo...

I did crank down the bolts that run through the top fo the triple clamp so they were super tight and solid. Maybe that's why mine have stayed in place even with some nasty crashes...

Coul

Could be that. I know i havent bent a set of bars since i got my wr. Everything must get absorbed through the mount somehow. All i usually have to do is replace a mount bolt.

Avid, you're on the right track. I went through this one evening in the garage. Everything would be lined up until you tighten down the top clamp bolts and things would twist.

If the plate is bent, it will do it every time. You could try to strighten it but it will just bend worse next time as it will be weaker.

Even with a new top plate and relatively straight bolts I've had to pull out the rubber bushings and check the metal inserts.

The inserts can be oblonged and cause it to pull to one side and depending on how hard you went down, the rubber bushings could be smashed on one side.
Last time this happened I ended up marking the bushing, taking them out and reversing them in the top plate and things lined back up.
I know there has to be better bushings out there, but have not researched it. Good luck.

Took care of it a week and a half ago.

Map torch and some body weight straightened it out. If it happens again/and or easily I may run individual top clamps. I had an aftermarket bar clamp assembly for a kx450f on my old '04 husky. Didn't have any issues with them at all.

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The reason the top clamp got tweaked I believe was from washing out in 2nd gear through a muddy section. Bike disappeared from under me and my bark buster acted as a shovel, broke right at the bar mount (acerbis looks like cast metal).

I know some guys run teflon tape up brake levers to prevent breakage. Wonder if it would be ok to do the same for bark busters.

I haven't clipped a tree yet "knock on wood". If I take a spill at a decent clip my bark busters want to twist and break. No issues for years but I seem to be getting faster and dumber at the same time

New on here.

I've been having the same problems with both our bikes.
I've tried individual Renthal clamps but the bars would twist just looking at them wrong so we went back to the standard husky linked clamps.
Looks like the rubber bushes are finished.
I've got two complete sets of bolts, rubber bushes and sleeves from Husky Sport but dry assembling on the bench I can't get the nut onto the end of the bolt because the sleeve is too long.
Am I ok to cut it down or am I just assembling wrong?
I've got the workshop manual but it doesn't seem to have a schematic to help me.

Also wouldn't the BRP aluminium bushes mean that there was a lot of vibration through the bars?

are you assembling it through the triple clamp as that will take about 10 mm from the sleeve as the taperd rubbers sit into the top clamp.

if that makes sence. if you have it installed on the bike and still too long yup grind them down to get the rubbers to sit tight.

To some extent, perhaps, but there are a lot of bikes that mount the handlebars directly to the top triple clamp with aluminum cast-in features, so no isolation whatsoever. I know that DRZs are like this, and I think that WRs (the Yamaha kind) are too.

I think that the Husky rubber isolation feature is nice, but not a necessity.

Same problem, will try and cut upper clamp on mine and hopefully will straighten based on the above advise.
One of the clamps is a bit loose though, (moves on the bolt slightly) which also may be a contributing factor.

Does anybody know which or what brand handlebar clamps will work...

Pro taper, MX Bonz, & RHK are three that I found on ebay, but do they all work, all right bolt size for example.

TXC310 r 2013

pro taper universals fit fine, anything from

00-07 honda cr 125/250/500
04-13 crf 250/450
02-07 kx 125/250/500
95-05 kdx 200/220
04-13 kxf/klx/250/450

Fit the 45mm shiver, I am unsure if the 50mm are the same but I would think so.

If you haven't already, I highly recommend replacing the rubber bushings with the aluminum ones from BRP. The stock rubber ones are soft, the bars stay in place much better with the solid inserts.

Ha...our recently aquired 13 TXC 310 has just undergone the same surgery....cut the top clamp, and ordered the aluminum bushings from BRP. Deja Vu

....and brp is still out of stock....waiting.....

Surprisingly cutting the bar clamp in the middle by 95% of the way actually straightened everything up. Every previous time things would distort on clamping down.

Funny thing, perhaps good for comment, Before I had the TXC I would ride my DRZ and get blisters on my left hand on the side of my forefinger where it joins to the hand, this would happen even after 1/2 hour of riding, and happened consistently every time I rode. I hadn't tried donuts, as I had issues getting the handguards off.

Now first time I ride the TXC310 for a 2 hour race, and no problem at all, not even slight blistering. Obviously its a lighter bike etc, perhaps smaller width in the bars contribute, but
I had wondered how much of this came down to the rubber damping of the handlebars, and hence was inclined to leave them on there.
The rubber damping must do something for the ride.

Mike.

Yu can see it's the clamp from first pic.
Those rubber mount and bolts are a PITA.

Ps, I got a few of these bits and pieces lying about from my te510 (06 model)

I have given up....after replacing the rubber bushings on the 310 with the aluminum ones from BRP a slight wash out (in the sand) caused the same problems again...only this time the bolts got bent. I am oredring the BRP triple clamp.

Energy can not be destroyed its transfered into heat movment sound so if your belting along at 10mph wipe out that forward force has to be absorbed it moves down the bars to the clanp through the bolts n rubber mounts yolks etc it will just break the weakest point, if poly bushes are available i would choose them over solid mounts all day also mild steel bolts will flex but high tensile will take the force.
Good luck with solving the issue, have you cut any length off bars to lessen the leverage from an impact? I run with 2 inches less eitherside not suffered bent bolts or clamp an i fall off alot.

I've now moved on to seperate top clamps. The original never got twisted again, but I decided to run my handguard mounts to the top clamps.

Bars twist easier than the original but it's rectified easily by torquing them against the steering stop.

As juicypips said all that force has to go somewhere. I'm happy with only having to give the bars a good tug after a spill.

Reminds me of dh mountain bikes where practically everyone bolts there bar clamps to the triple. Works fine most of the time but can bend forks/bars/dent frames/impale riders. I'd rather spend the 2 minutes to adjust the bars then drop hundreds replacing parts (different scenario but you get the idea).

I'm gonna have to check my WR250 for some of that warping ...Seems my bars stay slightly tweaked also ... Not really a big deal but when I swap back to another bike where the bars are straight, those feel weird until I ride with them a few minutes and get used to way they feel. Then moving back to the WR, the process just repeats ..

Just installed the brp 3 ple clamp and mount on the 310... What an awesome set up. More clamping surface to the fork, 2 pinch bolts instead of one, rubber grommet mount for the bar clamp and a solid cross bar clamp.Looks awesome too and is adjustable. Hopefully this is the last time I will have to deal with this.

I have the aluminum cones (rubber grommet replacement) that will fit the stock clamp...I'll gladly sell them if someone needs them...ping me (we used them for 2 weeks and decided that we want the full clamp on the race bike).