250-500cc WR thermostat bypass

^^^ thats exactly what I did.

ah, ok, that'll work too 9/16 is a good tight fit in that hose. i thought about pinit's post. he pluggged the t-stat spigot then put it all back together is my guess? your brass hardware is some of what i got here too so...yup. you got it. im getting my goodies in line here for my surgery so...i'll post it all up as i get it if ya'l like. seems to be common with the new KTM and Hoosk 2T bikes and these t-stats...for whatever reason. im still thinkin its for the street legal ones. def should not be there for steep tight enduro stuff.

Problem is they are just cheap plastic. Husky could easily of put a better quality one on and been fine. Dont matter, I probably would have taken that one off as well. Curious to see what you come up with.

Y

Yes just crimped. If i remember correctly there is just a seal in there.

Not sure why the pic ended up side ways, but yeah just put it all back together. Left the bolt a bit long so that if it ever fell out it will get stuck where the hose bends. Also chamfered the end where i cut the bolt head off do it wont chafe the hose.[/ATTACH]

Thanks. It was bothering me that it was in there,ive never had a db w a t stat. At that point nothing was going to stop me.

Ill do what it takes for a husqvarna brother in need if help lol!!!

great. went to pick up my parts. they were in. uh....wrong color. hmm....ok, try again tomorrow. aint that always the way....put the patient back in the room, surgery on stand-by some more. poopies.

i'm getting my fittings and stuff from a local speed shop. the parts are made locally by a manufacturer called Goodridge, that, just so happens to be a stripe sponsor on this:

http://www.bloodhoundssc.com/

I think I have a couple of old style no T-stat hoses in my spare box.

" *screwwereeeereep squak* paging dr. pv, paging dr. pv.... patient porkulous j. porkage is on the table and being prepped fer transplant surgery. the gas passer is on the way. kindly put down the nurse, clean yer tools and proceed to OR-1, stat, that is all...."

someone really needs ta fix that P.A. !

step one: remove the t-stat.






side note- i'm using -12 AN PTF stuff...-16 is huge and, it cant be removed, it'd have to be cut off. the -12 is a nice slip fit and hose clamps will keep it secure in the event i have to change something.

step two: shorten barbed end and radius so it dont block the transfer hole. do a quick flow test and it gushes, yay!:


step two A:






step three: off to the parts store. i just realized when i did the eyeballing of these parts at the speed shop we musta been using -10. it's a lot smaller. i didnt have my glasses with me and i failed to realise this. so....i cant use the M-M adapter (black center thingy in first pic), the OAL is way too long, dang it. i aint that bright! i have to go get a -12 M to hose, barbed end adapter fitting. so no big, it's 12$...then it'll all go together in a jiff. custom job, custom problems. lol. stand by while the patient rolls his eyes under anesthesia.......and i up my malpractice insurance!

Ok, this is interesting, mine overheated at the weekend, i put it down to bad riding conditions as many were steaming up, then along comes this thread, got me thinking. Does anyone know, if the thermostat was to malfunction would the fault leave the stat closed or has it 'in built' safety to fail to the open position? I would guest it would depend on what failed within it, just wondered if some of you have had these apart you may know

not sure but...t-stats are pretty finicky and delicate. placed in a plastic housing it's proly not the best or most stable of environments at the end of a buzzing hose. going to the source and hittin' Earl's in a bit for more fittings and bypassing the speed shop. me and the gent there are gona compare notes. i'm re-engineering my re-engineering...and im leaving my boo-boo's up on the other stuff for all to see, for reasons of humility....kinda like that time i forgot my pants and went to work in my undies.

Just my .02- OK?
I have never had a thermostat stick in anything, cars, trucks, motorcycles, tractors, heavy equipment etc. In my younger days I worked at an auto parts store for 6 years while and shortly after attending school. During that time I'm pretty sure I could count the number of stuck thermostats on the fingers of one hand and have some fingers left over.

agreed. good point. cooling system usually has to be pretty neglected for one to stick or get a pin hole and have the wax run out.

im not sure how fast these things open and close, i'd have to test it. or, who the maker is- never used them before. for all i know it's a quality piece, or, it could be junk. but the engine is so small i dont see the benefit of it where i am with this teeny tiny cooling system. the pump and radiator do a pretty good job of regulating and restricting the flow as needed IMO. im removing all the restriction, bypasses, cavitation points etc. for severe use. it's also one less complication in a platstic can to go bad when im 30 miles from the truck in the boonies. never had a dirt bike with one before. the 09-10's didnt have one either so...its going on the bench and im doing some testing w/o it and we shall see.

It looks like the same thermostat that has been coming on the 610s since 06 and maybe further back than that.
It is also possible that a little more temp in a normally cool running 2 stroke could reduce spooge if the temp can get closer to the flash point of the oil.

I actually thought about putting a thermostat on my 165 to see if spooge could be reduced, then the Lectron carbs came along.

My biggest negative about thermostats isn't sticking. I think that if you have a really long technical climb in hot weather, where it isn't a matter of if but how much you over heat, starting a a lower temp will buy you some time before the temp climbs over 210. Last summer we rode some long climbs in 95 degree heat and I cringed while I watched my over heat light flash on my Trail Tech Vector and the read out said 230-245+.

ok- see yer point.

spooge is the net result of a lot of factors. if my plug is good and it spooges it spooges. the cooler my engine runs the longer it lasts. there is less than zero chance of my engine running too cold where i ride.

*

so- i went with a new formula. Earl's real deal stuff. i wanted an -12 AN male to hose adapter so the thing would be just two pieces. he dont do those for whatever reason, only the China doods do, so, we went American, the boat parts box from who knows when. i kinda like the necks on these better, they cover more of the hose end....

the rest of this is a commitment, its not for the squeamish so...no turning back...

it's also not a knock on anyone, thing, your mod, her set-up or whatever. i have OCD and this stuff keeps me up at night, my wallet empty and my ring figner bare.

new old junk:




as stated earlier the ends are too long for a couple reasons...so they need trimming. the one for the radiator side gets 2 barbs off, the head side just one. chamfer and deburr the lot. note: before doing this, stuff a paper towel in from the big end to keep the grit out of the collar. be careful. if you dont damage the surface these things wont leak.
trim the hose as nec. use a hacksaw with two blades, one with teeth opposing the other. for a straight cut, stuff a dowel in it, use tape as a guide line around it, or cut it proud and use the side of your grinder to square and clean off the fuzz......a hose cutter works ok too in a pinch...lol. :





pic of rough moc-up. these fittings finish little cleaner than the others. cardboard is to protect radiator from the inevitable oops. and, bypass hose chopped and not yet dressed. that gets a shark bite plug and a clamp like 080's set up.





a sploosh of color on the 90* adapter and a breif word from our sponsors....




ok- that's it for tonight kids...we'll finish up the the 'patient porkulous' in a few...

nice work!