250-500cc WR250 power valve adjustment?

I did mine @ the 50.5 last year. I bought one of those machinist rulers with the slide @ one of the Home improvement stores. It was either set wrong at the factory or slipped. What a difference it made along with crisp jetting.

Is it worth doing? What kind of difference did it make? Low end? Better all around power?

It gave me a crisper bottom end up thru the mid. I wish I would of checked it when it was new.

for some reason I can't view any of the images that you posted.

I still have the TMX, with a JD kit and a 4.0 slide, Gnarly pipe and I have ridden a friends with the PWK and there wasn't much difference but they are a little finicky for sure.

I am having trouble finding the pictures as well on my computer. I will look on a backup hard drive and see if I have them. Really all it showed was the plastic ruler setting in the cylinder measuring to the top.

No images as well ???

Great posts but the pictures aren't showing

What's a 4.0 slide?

haha...it's the part of the carb that slides up and down

Here's my 2 cents... Find some 90 octane gas without Ethanol (corn). Second, purchase a JD Jet kit for $75. That combo will work wonders on your motor. Cheap easy fix and can be done in less than an hour

Here is a link to a free app that will help you find no ethanol gas
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pure-gas/id454559068?mt=8

or www.pure-gas.org

13 Pure Gas Stations in California, every single one is in Southern California

The app is updated by users so there could be places to buy fuel that are not on the app. If you know of some you can add them to the app and future users will benefit.

No one has mentioned fitting divider plates in the TMX, I did this to my 300 and got a bit improvement in low end power. Bike pulls like a four stroke now, although I think the rekluse I installed at the same time helps spread the power also.

Another thing to make sure everyone dose is adding a 1.3 mm spacer to preload the power valve spring. Just make sure the spacers ID is the same as the shaft so it has no movement ( this system needs to remain balanced) this mod greatly improves mid range and completely eliminates bog before the powerband. It makes the power very linear and there is no hard hit just a smooth pull. Top end remains the same which for me is enough to make it hard to keep the front wheel down in every gear. The reason the 250s bog just before the power band is that the power valve is opening to early. The spring preload shim makes the power valve open a little later getting all the mid range back. I did this to my 2004 wr250 btw and wish I did it a long time ago. Yes you have to remove the case cover and drain your fluids but it is well worth it in my opinion

Is anyone familiar with this mod?
Currently have my power valve/jug apart, and would appreciate any additional information on this mod.

Cheers