250-500cc wr300 2012 it's not a motorcycle

Sorry to hear about that. I don't recall seeing anyone post that issue before. ALL bikes have their quirks and need a little attention before being "perfect". However, your issue is very confusing. I have an 09 wr 300, and have had zero issues with the bike. The reed block issue is not Husky's fault. MotoTassinari who makes the V-Force decided to stamp their numbers on the sealing side of the intake. However, I did cut a paper gasket and put one on my bike before ever taking out for a ride. Other than that, just regular maintenance.
I completely understand your frustration. I, of all people, have the worst temper with inanimate objects when they don't function properly. Sorry you are having problems. An issue like that and one so unique suggests to me that there is something going on with your bike that was part machine and part owner error. I did something similar a number of years ago when I rebuilt my Yamaha 426. I put it all together and it ran great...for a short spell. Until the timing chain jumped off and I blew a hole through the motor from the inside out. It didn't mean that the Yamaha was a bad bike, but it wasn't a great bike either.
I, personally, don't have any problems with the clutch, or anything else. And when I needed to replace the parts, I went with the OEM parts, even the clutch cable. I guess that is just personal preference.
Anyway, sorry you had a bad run with this bike. I would personally see if I could sell it, as is, to someone and go buy another bike, or fix it and ride the crap out of it. Because as I said, I don't think your issue was all a mechanical problem. Good luck and let us know how you make out!!

Hmmm, i loved my 2010 300 i had before, but the 2012 is not as nice unfortunately. I must agree about the ignition system on the 2012. It is much harder to start and kicks back a lot more than the 2010 system. I also seized a piston on mine with only 10 hours on it. No air leaks and a 182 main on the icetracks, just i like i've been using before. I will try to retard my ignition slightly to make it easier to start and smoother on low speed running.

Johnny

Interesting, I was just thinking last week when I glanced down at my hour meter and saw that I'd put 96 hours of racing on my 2012 WR 300 in the last 10 months, that it is the most bullet-proof bike I've had (well, next to a Honda XR)

I'll give you that the shift lever and brake pedal are sub-par. The Mikuni did not work for me. The clutch lever left my hand sore and blistered.

After a lot of fiddling with carbs, the Lectron is THE solution for me on that issue. An ASV clutch lever and perch fixed the issues with the clutch lever, and gave me the added bonus of quick adjusts while I'm dodging trees between rock gardens. I learned to deal with the foot controls. At this point I don't have any complaints with the bike. Between family and friends of mine, there are now 9 Huskies 2011-2013 model years. All get raced and ridden HARD, and the only failure we've had is a bushing wore out pre-maturely on the shift mechanism on a 2011 WR300.

So, what I'm trying to say is that if there are issues with yours, then it is pretty isolated, which would make me think that the intake needs a very good inspection. The jetting during your first problem ran sounds to be on the lean side to me, 430 at 5C or 41F, in sand I would think you'd want to have been a little more cautious and on the rich side, especially during break-in. A throttle chop after an extended amount of time at WFO throttle risks seizure on any 2-stroke, especially if it's possibly lean to begin with. I've seen people kill perfectly running and jetted KTMs doing just that.

The second seizure seems like you would have been plenty rich, but the 100km/h (62 mph) would worry me a bit. With stock gearing, you'd be revving the piss out of it in 5th gear. 13/48 gearing makes the "comfortable" top speed 5-10mph lower than that. That shouldn't have caused any issues though, unless there was something else wrong. A leaky intake boot or base gasket would seem more likely causes than anything else. Possibly due to contamination or some additional damage that wasn't caught from the first rebuild.

You seem pretty repulsed by the bike, but I'd suggest giving the next rebuild a lot of thorough attention and not rushing it. Some times things just get over looked.

And than the mikuni carburetor wasn't pleasant to you? Is worse nothing than Keihin

I'm thinking someone mixed up the fuel cans.........it's happened before

Or the beverages.

i got rid of mine after 4 months. after decking the bike out and having all sorts of things fail on the bike that should never fail on a 2011 bike.

I've put more cranks in KTM's two strokes for guys than any other bike I can think of. I posted a vid in the racing section last week of a YZ250 at a GNCC blowing up on the first lap. And I can't even think to count how many Honda CR top ends I've seen fried. But, some times you'll have that with any brand.

That's interesting...Are the KTM guys running the factory recommended 60:1?

I don't know for sure.

im running 60:1 in my ktm, just like i did on my husky and my last ktm. never had a crank issue besides with my 2009 200xc. it had 229 hours on it in a year and a couple months. told they guy who bought it i would reall consider pulling the crank out for bearings since all i had ever done was put pistons in it. he ran it the rest of that year and pulled it all apart, it was due for crank and rod bearings. its a small bore so i thought that was alot of time. when i had my 144 husky i did rod and crank bearings at the end of the season.

What are you suppose to be proving by weening the juice that provides life to your engine down to such a low number?

My mate races RD's and gets more power/speed and better lap times at 40:1 than 50:1.

Reckons the rings hold more compression with more oil.

Stu

So if the number is low enough(more oil), you whip RV2? ...

It might can be a factor, but in the racing I do... It would be ~100% impossible for a few tiny drops of oil to ever make a difference in results as long as the bike did not break ...

Maybe I'm just not a finely tuned racing machine like many others might be and never could notice that small difference ...

If you use racing machinery expect at some time an engine failure. I think the the bike was running way to rich = hotter running = seize.

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b627/Zorik_west/602bb9c1d4f21bbfc25cae2702f2196f_zps564b17aa.jpg

My wr250 2011 year !!! Odo is 5300 km

Want to hear something funny about my 09 300?
I accidently cinched my throttle cable. Then unbeknownst to me by sheer coincidence kill button wire was severed. So the other day bike started up and immediatly went full throttle from dead cold with no way to shut off other than shutting off gas. So I thought for sure I was gonna destroy the engine.
Instead...bike starts better/runs better now. Perfect compression. I swear by these bikes.

Tell you all a secret about my 2010 model 300
Got it home warmed it up road around my property when it click up 2km I when to show my mate up the back turned in to his driveway in second when through the gears forgot it was a 5sp not a 6sp went for 6th shut it of as I sat down she SEZIED

If you ever have a 2 stroke run away like that just plug the exhaust with a gloved hand and it will kill it quickly.