250-500cc WR300 Intake Manifold replacement ?

Not sure if the parts are different on the other side of the pond, but the older boot I used (ordered one for a 2008 WR250) did not have a fin or split or anything different in boot or at the boot to reed junction.

Heath

I also installed the shorter '08 reed boot on my '11 wr300 and it was exactly the same as the '09 and new oem boot but shorter like in Heath's photo. I was on oem boot #3. All of them cracked and develop holes from the bottom of the clamp screw. The '08 boot seems tougher/stiffer, and the carb sort of "pops" into it and seems more secure than with the '09 and new boots. Also use 2 reed gaskets; one for each side. No air leak issues. Replace your clamps when replacing the reed boot.

Hi all,
last week I took out the Lectron to adjust the float heigh and I found that the intake boot was in bad shape again, actually starting to become a mayor air leak:




So I ordered the shorter pre 2008 boot with ref. 8000A0802, and it just arrived today:






The rubber material is stiffer than on the new boots, so I hope that it will last longer.
If you pay attention to the last picture you can see that the rubber on the sides is a little bit deformed and I'll trim some off to have a smooth transition to the reed case.

Will install these days and upload some pics, I hope I get enough clearance with the Lectron, seems tight.

Greetz

Ok, boot is installed, enaugh room for the lectron as you can see:



The material is a lot stiffer and it needed some effort to get the carb into it, some warm air out of a hair dryer helped...
Also added an inline filter for extra safety.

This Saturday I'll take her out for a larger ride, let's see if the shorter boot will make some difference....

Cheers !

Watching as mine is perishing so may go the shorter route too. Keep us posted mate

at least you never have to pull the lectron to make adjustments...only a twist to the side...

Too bad, but on the 300 the fuel tank has to be removed. It's the 125/165 that it can just be turned to the side.

Yeh more to jus prevent any airboot deformation(not that it's much)

well yeah, im talking about not having to remove the carb...its nice not having to remove to do that for swapping needle jets, pilots, or mains.

I recently replaced my first '08 boot on my '11 wr300 after installing it last April. It only had 40 hours on it when I found this slit while pulling off the reeds to check them. Not good. Glad I caught it before something went wrong. Not sure if that's a manufacturing defect and/or user error (i.e., clamp was too tight?). Installed another '08 boot 2 weeks ago. Hope it lasts longer. This is oem boot #4 I think since getting the bike 5 years ago. I also just replaced the original air boot w/a new oem unit as it was highly weathered and had a hole in the top from the bottom of the clamp screw. Normal wear and tear...

bottom picture looks like the clamp was too tight, really beat up by the clamp..the top one looks great other than the huge gash! geez...

Besides the damage by the clamp, the cracks in the bottom pic are typical in my experience. So is the crack on the inside at the flange. Posted somewhere, I went through 2 intake boots on the 300 in a year and chased what I thought were Lectron tuning issues the whole time The 3rd boot I wrapped in rubber splicing tape, aka 3M Self-Amalgamating Tape. No prob's since. Not pretty, but it works.
Even though I have 2 spares I'm going to order the older version to relieve the strain from the Lectron. I recently found a crack in the airbox boot too.

I definitely think I've been tightening the clamps too much. My bad.

especially since ive been using silicone hoses more, i only run norma clamps, which are smooth on the inside and save the hoses quite a bit. these were standard on the swede bikes and likely come on most intakes

Those clamps are nice, they even have some with blue housings

So I took the lady out this WE and could not notice a mayor difference with the shorter boot. May be very little loss of low end grunt but that could also be marginal (placebo). I know that there are spacer plates for GasGas and also for the Husky's (I think the plate would be the same) to improve low-end, so I was assuming that a shorter intake boot could do the opposite thing although it's not the same to enlarge the crankshaft volume with a spacer (before the reed case) and enlarging the intake boot (after the reed).

PS: I bought an Vforce4 reed box for GasGas EC250 and would like to adapt it for the Husky, the bolt pattern is the same but the Vforce4 design with it's 'flaps' is touching inside the cylinder and the fix is somewhat forced, I would like to need the reed spacer to mount it safely. With that I would then again loose the benefit of the sorter intake boot and stressing the air boot again... I was also researching to use the alu intake boot from a GasGas but the angle seems to be different...


Greets

Wasn't Bills selling better quality intake manifolds than the crappy OEM units?

I got mine from Bill's. They didn't say anything about not OEM, but they didn't come in OEM baggies.

Well, here we go again:





That is the short boot I installed ~1 year ago, the crack on the top side is ugly, I sprayed it with WD40 with the engine running but did not notice anything so for now there is no air leak, but I don't like it at all.

Well, reading my own posts in this thread I just realized that I bought that Vforce4 reed case exactly a year ago !
Bike ran well and I did not feel the need to change the reed case but now I will definitely need to try the Honda CR250 boot, I got one from 99 in perfect shape but I'm not sure if it will fit, angle seems different.

I will try in the next weeks and let you know.

Cheers

I just found a new crack in mine too, but not until I had just torqued in down with new gaskets and installed the carb. So I just plugged the crack with fuel resistent sealant. This is the 3rd one that's failed on me in 2 years.