• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

07 TE450 Starting

J

jonahrei

Husqvarna
B Class
I've been lurking on this forum for about a 2 months now. I just picked up my first Husky a few days ago and had it shipped down here from Oregon. It's a used bike w/ 450 miles and did not come w/ an owners manual. This is probably a stupid question, but I'm wondering how to use the electric start and what the procedure is? I've tried using all the buttons on the right side of the handlebars to no avail. I can start it w/ the kickstart no problem. Am I missing something here? Is something broken?

Thanks.
 
The red button on the righthand side is the ignition on/off switch. The button is in the "ignition on" position when it is out. When it is in, it is in the "ignition off" position. Make sure that it it in the "ignition on" position, then with the clutch pulled in, hit the starter button which is the black button just under the red ignition button. This should get the motor spinning unless you have other electrical issues.
 
Yeah, i've tried that. Still doesn't do anything. Is there a sensor somewhere to tell the motor the clutch, brake or anything is pulled in?
 
jonahrei;38377 said:
Yeah, i've tried that. Still doesn't do anything. Is there a sensor somewhere to tell the motor the clutch, brake or anything is pulled in?
Click to expand...

There's a clutch switch. You should see some wiring that runs on down the handlebar, coming out of the inboard end of your master cylinder. If somebody put the wrong clutch lever on the bike, it may not press the switch, or the switch could be gone, or if it's there, it might be broken. It could be a bad wiring or connections with the starter button. Time to check things out and get out the old multi meter. Could be the solenoid or a maybe a fuse...:excuseme: Go through each part of the system and eliminate each area as you go.
 
Dirtdame;38379 said:
There's a clutch switch. You should see some wiring that runs on down the handlebar, coming out of the inboard end of your master cylinder. If somebody put the wrong clutch lever on the bike, it may not press the switch, or the switch could be gone, or if it's there, it might be broken. It could be a bad wiring or connections with the starter button. Time to check things out and get out the old multi meter. Could be the solenoid or a maybe a fuse...:excuseme: Go through each part of the system and eliminate each area as you go.
Click to expand...

Okay, I'll try that next. I have to wait a bit until I get my radiators back from the shop. :thumbsdown:

I'll keep you posted.
 
I purchased a different magura clutch lever that did not have the nipple to push the microswitch to engage the starter and my bike wouldn't start. You can short out the leads to bypass.
 
check relay fuse

Last week, I was prepping mine for a race. I ALWAYS start the bike at home a couple hours before I put it on the trialer to make sure I have time to correct any problem that might have popped up before I get to where I'm going with it-even if it has been cranked the day before.

During this pre-ride inspection, the starter would not turn over. The day before, I had been installing a launch device and heard a wire arcing. It was the leads to the horn (which I removed some months ago). The covering had fallen off of the end of the lead and it was arcing to the frame. I corrected the problem, but the next day the bike would not crank. I checked the battery. There are 2 fuses on the battery/relay assembly. One is a spare. The shorting wire had caused this fuse to blow. I replaced it with the accompanying spare and it fired right off. If you do not have a spare under there, you will need a std. 15amp automotive fuse if yours is blown.

Lift the seat off of the bike, the battery is directly beneath. You will see the fuse right on top. If that is the problem and you replace it and it keeps blowing, then more than likely you have a bare wire somewhere touching something and causing the fuse to blow.
 
mxracernumber1;38534 said:
Lift the seat off of the bike, the battery is directly beneath. You will see the fuse right on top. If that is the problem and you replace it and it keeps blowing, then more than likely you have a bare wire somewhere touching something and causing the fuse to blow.
Click to expand...

Last year the connectors got damaged and came loose on my turn signal relay and it caused that fuse to blow.
 
mxracernumber1;38534 said:
Last week, I was prepping mine for a race. I ALWAYS start the bike at home a couple hours before I put it on the trialer to make sure I have time to correct any problem that might have popped up before I get to where I'm going with it-even if it has been cranked the day before.

During this pre-ride inspection, the starter would not turn over. The day before, I had been installing a launch device and heard a wire arcing. It was the leads to the horn (which I removed some months ago). The covering had fallen off of the end of the lead and it was arcing to the frame. I corrected the problem, but the next day the bike would not crank. I checked the battery. There are 2 fuses on the battery/relay assembly. One is a spare. The shorting wire had caused this fuse to blow. I replaced it with the accompanying spare and it fired right off. If you do not have a spare under there, you will need a std. 15amp automotive fuse if yours is blown.

Lift the seat off of the bike, the battery is directly beneath. You will see the fuse right on top. If that is the problem and you replace it and it keeps blowing, then more than likely you have a bare wire somewhere touching something and causing the fuse to blow.
Click to expand...

That was the very first thing I checked. None of them were blown.
 
columbia510;38530 said:
I purchased a different magura clutch lever that did not have the nipple to push the microswitch to engage the starter and my bike wouldn't start. You can short out the leads to bypass.
Click to expand...


I have the original Magura lever.

I'll have to wait until i get the radiators back to do some more research.
 
jonahrei;38772 said:
I have the original Magura lever.

Pull back the bootie on the microswitch and check if one or both leads/connectors broke,its happened to me after I went....well:doh:
Click to expand...
 
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