• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 09 300 idle speed.

krieg said:
You mentioned the idle adjuster screw is one turn inside the locknut. Have you tried going further in (maybe by 1/4 turn) and see if theres an effect on idle speed? Have you checked your float level?
Click to expand...

Krieg, the idle does go up as I wind the screw in, just a very small amount. If I had a screw that was 4 feet long, I'm sure I could get it to idle OK!:)

bax3 said:
got same main & needle not sure bout others, mines 2nd clip from top of needle. It takes about 3 kicks when cold starts nearly first kick when hot. Im in SE QLD. 50 to 1 with 98 octane
Has it done many hours? The more hrs mine done the better it got to start.
its a 2010 if that makes any diff
Click to expand...

When my clip was 2 from top, It would start after maybe 20 kicks. It has only done 27 hrs, and I had heard that they get easier to start and the idle speed comes up as the hrs go up Hasn't happened yet

rockdancer said:
I wouldnt assume too much . The TMXX looks very different and are shorter . The WR300 carbs all look like the older TMX from my 08 125 . PM Walt he'd confirm this.

I wouldnt worry about that though - whered you get the bike from take it to the dealer and let them sort it out .
It should work as it was
Dont do radical changes to neeedle heights.
If you pull the carb off put the throttle cable on and see how much slide gap there is at the back with throttle closed. Post a pic . Need to adjust slide up .

(When I put a PWk on my125 I had too much idle and adjusting the throttle cable fixed that issue for me )

also try leaner settings - the older TMX carbs have leaner settings preferred.
390 main, 30 pilot or smaller works well
Click to expand...

Cheers Rockdancer. My jetting knowledge is atrocious, and I don't ride with anyone that knows what is going on, so I wasn't sure if I was,(am) lean or not.
I am just curious as to why JD don't support the carb for the 09 300., hence why I assumed it was the TMXX.
Email as copy and pasted.

Rob,

The 2009 and newer 300 Husky uses a different version of TMX carburetor that we do not support. We do not have kit needles for the carburetor and do not have a jet kit. Most riders with jetting issues choose to purchase a replacement Keihin 38mm PWK Air Striker carburetor. The Keihin PWK Air Striker carburetor that we sell includes our jet kit needles and comes set up for your motorcycle. The extra parts make it a good value as a package.

The carburetor is listed on our website as part #JDKH08.

See- http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product.php?productid=60&cat=0&page=1&featured

Thanks,
James
 
Rockdancer, what do you mean by the gap at the back for the slide? Which way? Top to bottom, or front to back?
Cheers
 
You can use the jets from the JD jetting kit on the 09-10 carb. They are nothing specail, just normal jets. The difference is the needle jet, and triple taper needles red-lean blue-rich. The 08 carb has a flat slide, 09-10 kidney slide.

The JD Jetting kit part number you will require # JDHQ06 JD jetting-Husqvarna CR250/WR250-300 (04-09) I guess you have received the wrong information from whoever you spoke with from JD. The information that I have is from the JD packaging, from my jetting kit www.JDjetting.com and look for this part number JDHQ06

My jetting skills a less than knowledgeable, (Crap actually!) so I'm not sure if it's eeven close, although it does run very well, but it does smoke an awful lot. I have tried 2 different oils, and it seems pretty constant. Is smoking an indication of anything?? There is no spooge

This is a wild card, check your coolant level, and or for any discolouration. you may have a leaking seal or gasket
 
RobNewy said:
Rockdancer, what do you mean by the gap at the back for the slide? Which way? Top to bottom, or front to back?
Cheers
Click to expand...

P1010052.JPG
this is the gap at the base of slide when closed on a pwk that was running ok - I would think yours gap is even smaller and needs to be raised somehow
 
RobNewy said:
I haven't Krieg. Not really sure where you take the measurement from
Click to expand...

I had to lower the float a tiny bit on my 09 WR250. When I got it if you barley leaned the bike it would pee out the vent so I set it so that it would pee just before the foot peg touched. Keep in mind this was a very small difference but made a big difference on how it idled and kept if from flooding and stalling. If you lower the float too much it will run dry at wide open throttle which is really bad so make adjustments in very small increments. Be patient when working on carbs, make one change at a time, write down your settings and test between changes. Before you know it you will have it dialed in.
 
lankydoug said:
I had to lower the float a tiny bit on my 09 WR250. When I got it if you barley leaned the bike it would pee out the vent so I set it so that it would pee just before the foot peg touched. Keep in mind this was a very small difference but made a big difference on how it idled and kept if from flooding and stalling. If you lower the float too much it will run dry at wide open throttle which is really bad so make adjustments in very small increments. Be patient when working on carbs, make one change at a time, write down your settings and test between changes. Before you know it you will have it dialed in.
Click to expand...
Robnewy: The same thing lankydoug mentioned happened with my '11 CR 150. It would overfill the bowl and spill out the vent with just the slightest tilting of the bike. It also effected the idle quality quite a bit. Keep in mind that "lowering" the float level means the float is lower in the bowl when the carb is vertical. This can be confusing at first because to get the float "lower" in the bowl, you actually have to increase the dimension between the top bowl flange and the bottom of the float. Try a google search on float adjustments. You should be able to find some good instructions... or your shop should be able to do it as well.
 
Cheers Lanky and krieg.

The float level seems ok, it doesn't drain out till the bike is on about a 35 or so degrees lean.
If I get time on Subday, i will play with it a bit and see what happens.

Thanks again everyone for the help.
If I'm up anyones way one day, I will buy you a beer or 4
:cheers:
 
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