250-500cc 15 pilot size standard??? not even on chart

[wait4me]

That 32.5 pilot is to big. Gonna keep fouling.

 

[Loco]

That 32.5 pilot is to big. Gonna keep fouling.

you are right!!!, I took it out for a bit and it fouled. I leaned out the mixture again, and fouled again. I ended up going back to that stupid 15 pilot jet. It starts ok on warmer weather, but I rather have a hard time starting the bike than fouling the plug every 5 minutes. I will have to find the right way to get my bike started (full throttle every time I kick it) and live with it, or, like everyone else suggests, get a lectron.

 

[Oldscool]

Before replacing the carb why not try smaller pilot jets (there's plenty of adjustment between 15 and 32.5) until you get it right. Perhaps start at 25, only cos its midway, and work from there. You'll know you've got the right one when the best idle and performance occurs with the air screw set between 1 & 2 turns out. You may also find you'll need different pilots for summer and winter.
Be wary of copying someone else's settings, they may give a good starting point but may not be "right" for your conditions.

 

[PowerKord]

^^^
I agree with Oldschool. Try some different pilot jets. 27.5 was best for me in the summer.

 

[rancher1]

Husky had a power up jet kit that was a pilot and needle I believe, I may have one lying around.

 

[Loco]

I am sure is the pilot that is doing the trick. I replaced the main 420 with the original 400 and still fouled the plug with the 32.5 pilot. I went back to the 15 pilot, and it is working fine. The 32.5 works for faster riders on faster tracks, but there is a lot of idling on the kind of terrain I go to.
Thanks for the comments, I will try to get a slightly larger pilot than the 15 and see if the starting improves and fouling does not happen.

 

[Loco]

I took the bike for a run yesterday, and right from the start, I fouled the plug with the 15 pilot**************************************** (here comes the excuse = kept trying to start the bike with the exhaust plug on, without knowing of course! ). I changed the plug and was running reasonably good, other than the idle. Si I adjusted to air screw to 1 turn, up from 1/2 turn. I gave it to mu buddy to try it, and he told me the carburation is perfect from bottom top. I adjusted the idle and went for a 50 km ride. I am puzzled, the bike starts on the 2 kick from cold and 1st kick when warm. It must be the temperature that makes my setup very sensitive. I will see if I have the same starting problems at the end of the season. If that is true, I might have to have 2 pilots, one for the summer and another one for the winter as Oldschool suggested.
Well, for now, the original setup is working perfect I learned another lesson the hard way.

 

[Loco]

almost a year later, and still with the 15 pilot. Working fine, but i think it is the fuel mixture that does it. $0:1 with racing oil is not right for my style I guess. I will start with regular synthetic this season and keep the pilots the way they are. Hope for good dry spring weather to start the season early. Will update n the outcome. Thanks to all for the kind comments!
Ed.

 

[Loco]

btw, i ran all year with no problems, until I tried to take it for a ride a month ago on a warm spell... old gas (with stabil) but fouled the plug. thus my effort to try different oil:fuel ratio. Will update as soon as i try it.

 

[2premo]

a good rule of thumb, and I have big thumbs
if racing (as in wringing it's neck) mix right before you race, as in same day
if you are trail riding, anything close to a month is questionable especially with current fuel
oil destroys the gas gas destroys the oil, it needs to be fresh to fuel and lubricate

 

[Loco]

a good rule of thumb, and I have big thumbs
if racing (as in wringing it's neck) mix right before you race, as in same day
if you are trail riding, anything close to a month is questionable especially with current fuel
oil destroys the gas gas destroys the oil, it needs to be fresh to fuel and lubricate

Lesson learned!!
thanks,
Ed.

 

[lankydoug]

If you don't ride that often then Race fuel is the way to go. Yes it's more expensive but then you can tune your engine for all out performance and for example VP110 has a 3 year shelf life with no additives compared to about 90 days with pump gas. If you dedicate your bike to only race fuel you can have the head redone and gain a lot of performance, especially in the low and mid range. The best thing is when you decide to ride after a long lay off you don't have to work on your bike for 1/2 the day to get it running right. I use it in all my off road bikes 2t and 4t as well as chainsaws and yard equipment. Life is too short to spend your weekends working on your string trimmers. There's a lot to be gained by remapping a 4t when you go to race fuel only but with a 2 stroke it's even more important because the fuel varnish is also going to affect the crankshaft and rod bearings.

 

[SmokeyExpress]

Lectron! Solved all my issues with the standard carb!
Best $ I ever spent on modding a bike!