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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
1972 450CR
- Thread starter MarkVMod0
- Start date
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
I got the piston in the mail today so I'll send that off with the head and cylinder for boring and porting.
I have seen at least two different specs for porting the 450. One is S-3 6-18-73 posted in the first husky news letter. It calls for 4mm of port modification. The second one I have seen in the past but cannot locate again, it called for a smaller cut of 2mm.
What do you guys use?
I have seen at least two different specs for porting the 450. One is S-3 6-18-73 posted in the first husky news letter. It calls for 4mm of port modification. The second one I have seen in the past but cannot locate again, it called for a smaller cut of 2mm.
What do you guys use?
Crashaholic
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Here are the other specs. They're from the "early tech (pre77)" in the service bulletin archives on this website. Personally I would go with these because they're less aggressive than the one from the Husky News letters and to me that means a higher level of reliability. Also, the port drawings on the Husky News Letter tech sheet doesn't look like the 450.
Good grief your clutch is nasty looking. Didn't you buy a clutch from me off Ebay a couple of months ago? Was it okay? If it won't work or you decide you don't need it let me know and I'll refund your dough.
Good grief your clutch is nasty looking. Didn't you buy a clutch from me off Ebay a couple of months ago? Was it okay? If it won't work or you decide you don't need it let me know and I'll refund your dough.
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
Oh yeah! it's a pitiful clutch. I don't think I ever opened an engine with a clutch this bad. The guy I bought the bike from said he was trying to get it started and was going to tow it behind a car.... Once I got it home I putzed with it and decided she just needed to be pulled apart.
Man o man were there surprises to be had and the clutch was just one of them.
Yes I did buy the clutch just to have incase this one was toast. It was a great buy to!
Looks like I will use that clutch in this engine.
Yeah, I like the less aggressive cut.
At least everyone here has been supportive and helpful. I just want to reward that with a good looking bike that runs.
Man o man were there surprises to be had and the clutch was just one of them.
Yes I did buy the clutch just to have incase this one was toast. It was a great buy to!
Looks like I will use that clutch in this engine.
Yeah, I like the less aggressive cut.
At least everyone here has been supportive and helpful. I just want to reward that with a good looking bike that runs.
loony888
Husqvarna
AA Class
My thought was wrong, removed it to save confusion...
I'll also be keeping a close eye on how many balls are in the race! thanks to crashaholics post for educating me on that one! i know there's counterfeits but i didn't think i needed to count the balls in genuine stuff.
I'll also be keeping a close eye on how many balls are in the race! thanks to crashaholics post for educating me on that one! i know there's counterfeits but i didn't think i needed to count the balls in genuine stuff.
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
It's my understanding that the C3 is made for conditions where there is more heat and has slightly loser inner tolerances.
Mostly used in electric motors but also where the heat transfer is not uniform as in aluminum cases.
I suspect the C3 bearing would be just fine in the gear box of the Husky; I just wanted to confirm this with others.
Mostly used in electric motors but also where the heat transfer is not uniform as in aluminum cases.
I suspect the C3 bearing would be just fine in the gear box of the Husky; I just wanted to confirm this with others.
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
Arrggghh! The succubus strikes again!
I inspected the transmission today and found some thrust washers that I should replace but otherwise it looks good.
The crank stub ends look iffy once they were glass beaded. I would consider running it and seeing what happens but I want to do this engine right the first time.
My concern is that the seals would not do their job.
What do you experienced Husky builders think?
Here is the Magneto side.
Here are a couple from the Primary side:
I inspected the transmission today and found some thrust washers that I should replace but otherwise it looks good.
The crank stub ends look iffy once they were glass beaded. I would consider running it and seeing what happens but I want to do this engine right the first time.
My concern is that the seals would not do their job.
What do you experienced Husky builders think?
Here is the Magneto side.
Here are a couple from the Primary side:
loony888
Husqvarna
AA Class
maybe a speedi sleeve ?
here's a very good explanation of bearing clearances, i was all wrong, this set me straight, should provide what you need.
Cheers
http://www.ahrinternational.com/bearing_radial_clearance_explained.htm
here's a very good explanation of bearing clearances, i was all wrong, this set me straight, should provide what you need.
Cheers
http://www.ahrinternational.com/bearing_radial_clearance_explained.htm
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
I have tried that in the past, buffed and gone a wee bit smaller on the seal. Works for a little while. Seals like a certain surface roughness just enough to cut them in for a good seal, highly polished surfaces and to rough a surface and there will be problems.
I was hoping someone would have said they ran a crank like that with no issues... just trying to save some deniro....of course I know better!
I haven't found any stub shafts that are acceptable so I have placed a request in the classifieds of the C.H. site. In the mean time I have explored the other options. All quite pricey but two of them. One is using an epoxy but I don't think it would last. The other is made by SKF; it's called a Speedi-Sleeve. I used them a lot back when I built engines for classic cars. It's an interference fit sleeve that fits over the sealing area and it's very thin so no need to source an oversize seal. They can be a PIA to install because they are thin but usually the install tool works quite well. I am not sure if I can use them on the crank stubs but it's a possibility that is cost effective....about $20 for each speedi-sleeve.
As to the C3 bearings, I figure they should work just fine on the Husky but I will buy the bearing kit that John sells. Just get them all at once along with the seals and gaskets.
I was hoping someone would have said they ran a crank like that with no issues... just trying to save some deniro....of course I know better!
I haven't found any stub shafts that are acceptable so I have placed a request in the classifieds of the C.H. site. In the mean time I have explored the other options. All quite pricey but two of them. One is using an epoxy but I don't think it would last. The other is made by SKF; it's called a Speedi-Sleeve. I used them a lot back when I built engines for classic cars. It's an interference fit sleeve that fits over the sealing area and it's very thin so no need to source an oversize seal. They can be a PIA to install because they are thin but usually the install tool works quite well. I am not sure if I can use them on the crank stubs but it's a possibility that is cost effective....about $20 for each speedi-sleeve.
As to the C3 bearings, I figure they should work just fine on the Husky but I will buy the bearing kit that John sells. Just get them all at once along with the seals and gaskets.
loony888
Husqvarna
AA Class
i bought a replacement stub shaft from john lefevre as mine sheared off. Not sure on what it cost, it was bundled in with heaps of other stuff.
I mentioned speedi sleeves above, they work well as long as it doesn't interfere with other clearances.
My bearings all feel ok, i still haven't got the barrel off but when i do i'll be removing all my bearings, if you need a list of part numbers with the "C" clearance marked i'm happy to send it?
I mentioned speedi sleeves above, they work well as long as it doesn't interfere with other clearances.
My bearings all feel ok, i still haven't got the barrel off but when i do i'll be removing all my bearings, if you need a list of part numbers with the "C" clearance marked i'm happy to send it?
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
I have the tranny apart and I will have to replace some thrust washers, might as well replace them all.
A couple of them are cupped and the others are probably useable but why not replace them all if I can source them.
I ordered the Speedi-Sleeves yesterday. Can't wait to see how they work on the crankshaft stubs.
Got the motoplat back from Vance. It looks great.
Waiting on the Morad rim from England...progress but slow.
A couple of them are cupped and the others are probably useable but why not replace them all if I can source them.
I ordered the Speedi-Sleeves yesterday. Can't wait to see how they work on the crankshaft stubs.
Got the motoplat back from Vance. It looks great.
Waiting on the Morad rim from England...progress but slow.
oldbikedude
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Yes, but progress none the less. Nice work.
SteveJ
Husqvarna
AA Class
Mine required a smoke wrench too.
Posting this so you'll have one more thing to search for, don't know if anyone other than Huskyjunk (out of business) ever offered them, really nice conversion.
http://www.huskyjunk.com/swing_bearing_conv.htm
John at Vintage Husky has the original style in stock, but I suspect you're looking for an upgrade.
Posting this so you'll have one more thing to search for, don't know if anyone other than Huskyjunk (out of business) ever offered them, really nice conversion.
http://www.huskyjunk.com/swing_bearing_conv.htm
John at Vintage Husky has the original style in stock, but I suspect you're looking for an upgrade.
MarkVMod0
Husqvarna
A Class
Hey Steve!
That's exactly what I had in mind!
To bad husky junk went out of buisness.
I suspect I could make something. Time and cost would be an issue.
Perhaps it will be better to use Buzzards set up. I won't be racing this machine, just puttering around more or less. I have way to many aches and pains from my navy gig.
That's exactly what I had in mind!
To bad husky junk went out of buisness.
I suspect I could make something. Time and cost would be an issue.
Perhaps it will be better to use Buzzards set up. I won't be racing this machine, just puttering around more or less. I have way to many aches and pains from my navy gig.