1972 Husqvarna 250 WR and 1971 400 Cross barn finds! Help me bring these beauties back to life!

[Dirtdame]

Red Leader Is Not able to get into the Cafe Husky forum. He sent me a letter and has not been able to access the site. I sent his request to the Admin. No Reply as of this post.

I sent him a password via Email on the exact day that you made your request.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

Thank You DD!!

 

[Red Leader]

I'M BACK!!!

For those of you that did not know, I got locked out of my account here since the last time I posted. For some reason, my password (which was created a long time ago) didn't save anymore, and I tried all the standard ones, and when those didn't work, I requested a new password but the email never came. I tried to start a new account, but it was never able to get verified.

DeathFromAbove went above and beyond the call of duty...I was able to get in touch with him outside of the forum, and he was able to contact the moderation team. I still never got an email from the forum, but an administrator reached out to me, and I don't think I saw it because it wasn't from any official 'CafeHusky' source.

Wow - thank you to DeathFromAbove and Dirtdame, I'm sincerely appreciative. What a saga. I've made sure to never, ever forget this password

 

[Red Leader]

Now, we can get back to official business, Husky business!


The big news is that while I was accidentally exiled, I was able to finally get the cylinder off!




And for anyone else who is dealing with a very stubborn cylinder head, here is how I did it.

I kept the engine in the bike for leverage. I used the aluminum intake piece that bolts on to the carb, and I cut a wooden wedge to slid underneath that piece, against the top of the cases, and hammered it up, while also using a tie strap to yank up on it, tightening it against the upper frame rail where where the gas tank goes. I was never able to get the front really loosened up completely while it was in the bike, and even broke one of those ratchet straps trying - it was that tight!

So then I removed the engine, and flipped it over, making sure to brace it as best as I could...




...and started whacking!

Turns out that where the exhaust meets up to the cylinder, is a great little place to whack, and I was never really able to get to that spot with the engine still in the bike...





This allowed me to, albeit carefully, keep away from the fins, and give it some good impacts to get it loose. I braced the studs w/ the top head bolts and put those against some wood and eventually things broke loose, little by little.




Even though the spot where I whacked is discolored, it is mainly just grease anyway and I think the part will be okay. Boy y'all were right about the corrosion at the bottom of those studs just holding it on from all the impacted dirt and rust. Also, I know all about galvanic corrosion from old steel bicycles with alloy seatposts, and that probably factored into it as well. I hope this helps someone else who may have a stuck cylinder like me. I also have a whole other Husky to attend to eventually, but we are going to try to get that one running w/out first pulling the engine. This one had a bit of a rattle when rocking the flywheel back and forth, and I assume that there should be ZERO play of the rod, side to side? Because there definitely is some.

 

[Red Leader]

Next up, I need to get a flywheel puller, and figure out some way to tackle this guy...





Feels so good to be back!

 

[Red Leader]

So this metal stick was just sitting in the triple clamp steerer…



This wouldn’t necessarily be for removing the flywheel would it? Seems to not quite have the right bend but I might be able to make it work if it is close.




Here is what the bike looks like right now, with almost everything needing help or replacement. But engine first.





Quick question: Ian assuming that the original grey oiler cables are total unobtainium, and I haven’t seen anyone make replicas. What do you all like to do for correct looking cables?

 

[Vinskord]

Next up, I need to get a flywheel puller, and figure out some way to tackle this guy...

View attachment 106545



Feels so good to be back!

Take a look at this thread:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/countershaft-sprocket-puller-recommendation.88236/#post-635583

 

[DeathFromAbove]

Glad you got it figured out Dave.

 

[Crashaholic]

So this metal stick was just sitting in the triple clamp steerer…This wouldn’t necessarily be for removing the flywheel would it? Seems to not quite have the right bend but I might be able to make it work if it is close.

Thats what the "metal stick" is for. It was made to fit on the footpeg bracket. Theres two other Husky tools to use when the motor is out of the frame, one hooks on the countershaft sprocket (#11) and the other (#10) fits on the either the rightside shifter shaft stub or the countershaft cone, I'm not sure which one.

 

[Crashaholic]

The big news is that while I was accidentally exiled, I was able to finally get the cylinder off!

Congratulations your patience paid off! I would have attacked it with my sawzall two months ago.

So, what kind of penetrating lube did you use on the studs?

Quick question: Ian assuming that the original grey oiler cables are total unobtainium, and I haven’t seen anyone make replicas. What do you all like to do for correct looking cables?

https://www.vintagehusky.com
https://www.husqvarnavintage.com
https://www.vintagehusqvarnaparts.be/parts/

 

[DeathFromAbove]

I'm trying my hand at making my own cables. Haven't found the exact replacement for the early 70s sheath or cable but got some in black that has the right cable diameter. I have seen close but in the bicycle area. Not sure if it would hold up. As for the oilers don't throw those cables away. Take the oilers off and clean and you can reinstall them on the same diameter sheathing. Cleaned up you can use all the fittings and barrels too if they are not to bad. Like I said I haven't actually made one yet but have been buying the parts and equipment to Try. So many Projects!!!
And Every time I see Jefs site I drool and promise to SAVE MORE MONEY!!!

 

[Crashaholic]

I've had great results modifying cables to the proper length. Turns out that soldering the ends is pretty easy so with your ingenuity and the University of YouTube, making cables will be a cinch. Venhill has this kit in gray for $21, seems a little of pricey for a DIY kit but it does has the barrels and ferrules, but no oiler. Would be nice to find a source selling 50ft rolls.

I checked with Flanders five years ago but they only had black.

https://www.venhillusa.com/universal-clutch-kit-metric-135m-u01-1-100.html.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

I think I have bought one of those but the originals havea different dia cable and a much smaller sheath. Ill measure tomorrow.

 

[Red Leader]

Thanks all! I appreciate everyone's thoughts, especially w/ the cables. My next step is to get the bike/engine cleaned up and degreased, then get:

- flywheel puller
- case splitter
- buy bearings / gaskets / seals
- examine the piston-to-cylinder fit and see if I need a new piston + rebored cylinder. Thank goodness for Vintco!

How do you guys feel about using the slightly pitted cylinder studs? Should be gtg?

From the research I've done, here is what I think are the bearings I will need:

Main bearing X2: 3205
6301 x1 (SKF/NSK: about $10)
6303 x1 (SKF: about $23)
6205N x1 (SKF w/ ring: $18)
6204 x1 (NSK: $12)
I tried to keep it high quality with the bearings, and those were the best prices I found on them. The mean bearings are a little tougher to come by, and if you want the good stuff, you gotta pay for it, which I am willing. If anything about that list looks wrong, please let me know. I got that list from the bearings that were in the 400CR engine that I had apart from my 1973 Husky (not yet pictured in this thread), but I'm not sure 100% if the bearings cross over between a '72 250WR and the '73 400CR. I *think* they should, but I'm interested in y'all's thoughts on the matter.

 

[Red Leader]

I think I have bought one of those but the originals havea different dia cable and a much smaller sheath. Ill measure tomorrow.

I've got some of the original cables between all 3 Huskys I have, including the original oilers. If anything, I will take off the oilers and keep them for use on a newer cable. I learned my lesson the hard way about throwing *seemingly* useless parts out with the pitted seat pan on my '73. I took the foam off, saw it was all pitted up, and so I threw it out. BIG MISTAKE! I still haven't yet gotten a replacement. I know they are out there, but I didn't realize I was throwing $$ away haha. That bike is on the backburner for now. The '72 is the priority, although I've seen a '71 kickstarter on ebay that I have been eyeing for the 400 cross. That's really the only main part that is missing on that bike. And while the kickstarter stop on the clutch case is broken, I looked on ebay and YOWZA...they are suuuuper expensive and every one I've seen is also broken lol. Must have been a common problem! I wonder how easy it would be to just weld on a chunk of aluminum and then shape like the original.

 

[Red Leader]

Also, regarding your main shaft bearings, the 3205 type, I'm noticing a difference between bearings that call themselves '3205 A'. These are the double row, open type. However, some only have about 9 bearings per side, and others have around 14 per side, and this larger count is what came out of the Husky engine that I have apart right now (the '73 400).

Do you all have any thoughts on this bearing count issue? I'm just confused why the exact same bearing would be so different.

Here is what I mean -






VERSUS






This latter type is the one that was out of my Husky. Is it just a specific thing w/ the manufacturer?

 

[Crashaholic]

When it comes to bearings you need to be aware of counterfeits, especially with expensive SKF's. You can't be certain what your getting unless its from an authorized SKF dealer. Overstock sellers sometimes have authentic SKF. In this case be sure they're in an SKF box and have SKF etched on the bearing.

The stock main bearings were 3205/C3, and yes they had 14 balls per side. 3205/C3 is an industry standard and not specific to SKF or Husky. These have a higher internal play than the CN. 10 years ago I paid $100 a piece for them. Then I learned of an alternative from I believe a Czech bearing mgf for half the price. Vintage husky had them as of 5 yrs ago, in fact you can buy an entire engine set from him for $200. Because these vintage bikes are primarily play bikes people accepted them and I've never had or heard of a failure.

 

[Crashaholic]

I wonder how easy it would be to just weld on a chunk of aluminum and then shape like the original.

Post 71 bikes have a magnesium clutch cover side case, the center cases stayed aluminum until 75 with the exception of the 74 250CR.

How do you guys feel about using the slightly pitted cylinder studs? Should be gtg?

I'd use slightly pitted studs without hesitation, there are others that wouldn't.

 

[Crashaholic]

I think I have bought one of those but the originals havea different dia cable and a much smaller sheath. Ill measure tomorrow.

These have a 6mm OD housing and 2mm wire, thats in line with early 70's bikes. In fact if I'm not mistaken some of the pre 72 models had even smaller cables, notably the throttle cable.

 

[DeathFromAbove]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BKvJDk8UNeUSrm5w7
These are a sample but i will lay them all out and get some thing definitive after work