• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1972 WR250 the beginning

A couple of goodies from John and a used Motoplat that hopefully works (?). Progress marches on at a snails pace : )
 

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I've always had good luck with Johns gasket sets. One suggestion, many of the early 70's bikes I've had leaked at the clutch cover. To resolve it I started coating the clutch cover gasket with a thin gasket sealant and letting it dry overnight. I used 3bond because its thin enough to spread a thin coat, and letting it dry overnight is so it won't stick to the cases if disassembly becomes necessary later on. The leak I was tending to was always at the bottom and slowly seeped over time. Some of the time I only coated the bottom half of the gasket.

Another important area to get sealed is at the intake manifold. Intake leaks screw with the idle and a crisp response off of the idle position. This also goes for the fit between the Bing carb and intake. The years of engine vibration will loosen the fit between these two. Theres nothing I know of that can effectively create a long term seal in this area without making a mess out of it. With one project, I had to search for an intake manifold replacement due to to much play between it and the Bing.
 
All Great Points Crash. As for gasket sealing, I take all the sealing surfaces very seriously like You. I take the cases and lay them on a surface plate I got too cheap and use some 280? grit belts I get from a customer for free as they are too worn for their process, and work the case halves until FLAT. Gotta be on a surface plate or similar or you might FUBAR the surfaces! Then repeat for all the covers and their surfaces.
As for the intake surface I do the same but less on a home built Pipe with a piece of SS machined flat stock welded to it to put the abrasive belt on. But the real culprit usually is the manifold surface, so I dress it as well on the surface plate.
And for the seal between the Bing and Intake I install a Oring a little bigger than the intake diameter. I'll get you a size when I get to the shop. It's not elegant or perfect but helps seal that surface between the two parts. I push the carb as hard as I can onto the intake and tighten it down. I haven't sucked one in yet but also don't ride roughshod on these bikes either. I can Send you a 24" section of the sanding belt if you want. Great Luck Chris
 
What are folks using to replace the ignition wire cover / sheath ? Carefully removed my old cracked one. Shrink tubes or ????
 
Yeah, shrink tube wouldn't turnout looking good after the exhaust heated up, not to mention the sun getting to it. I've used a lot of gray sheathing years ago for my restos but the source, Cycle Terminal, doesn't seem to have it pictured on their website any longer. If you're buying anymore than a couple of feet you may want to shop the price. I see the stuff online priced anywhere from $1.50 to $2.50 per foot, just search gray motorcycle wire sleeve or sheath. Keep in mind the Ebay listing includes shipping making in the price for one foot reasonable, for more than a foot maybe not so much.
 
I got too cheap and use some 280? grit belts
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Heck yeah, belts and emery cloth are the best. Wish I had access to a surface plate, nice.

Gotta be on a surface plate or similar or you might FUBAR the surfaces!
Click to expand...
Amen to that brother.

And for the seal between the Bing and Intake I install a Oring a little bigger than the intake diameter.
Click to expand...
I think the o-ring will stay put. I've tried that with a worn intake spigot and was a little leery when I rocked the carb back and forth even after tightening the carb. Once installed, the air cleaner may have held it tight enough but I still didn't feel comfortable with it. It was to close to Disneyland, I try and avoid mickey mouse around my stuff. :rolleyes:
 
I've tried that with a worn intake spigot and was a little leery when I rocked the carb back and forth even after tightening the carb.
Thats close to a Mikuni upgrade!
 
Some progress:
1. got the forks cleaned up & resealed
2. inspected clutch and repainted cover
3. got the tank cleaned inside & out. Recommendations on a tank painter?

Thanks Vinskord for the grey sheath recommendation! Installed and looks great, but had to cut the connectors off to fit : ( Any sources for the motoplat spade connectors to the coil?

Sorry, I couldn't get my fork & clutch cover pics to fit...
 

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DeathFromAbove said:
Let me dig up my 500xc thread to find that connector.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/1983-xc500.87850/page-11
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Those links I posted are about 5 years old. Here are updated links (good as of Dec. 6, 2024):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256339372683

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253909680777

Couple of things to keep in mind:

1) This terminal originally had two wires crimped in it - one from the Motoplat and the other to the 'kill switch'. So the spec needs to be larger than for 18ga wire.

2) Be sure not to get one with the locking tab on it. This is for placement in a connector - similar to an auto headlight connector.

There are multiple sources for the terminal - ebay, Amazon, AliExpress, Newark, etc. Just search for 9.5 spade terminal.
 
RE: connectors. I'd like to suggest two things, a cover for the male spade to protect against an accidental short and a crimping tool that not only locks the bare wire to the terminal but also locks the insulated portion of the wire to the second terminal clamp. I've used these items to install terminals on my past projects and highly recommend them.

I used these bullet connectors on my RT project. Don't have a pic of a new female spade to show.
001 25%.JPG
 
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