• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1976 WR 360 Problems....

Zburd

Zburd

Husqvarna
C Class
I recently bought bout a 76' 360 WR from an older gentleman for a couple hundred bucks. It is all complete, but needs some cables, brakes and a few other things...

Or so I though.

IMAG0072.jpg

I was pulling of the flywheel cover today and about a cup of ether smelling fluid came pouring out as I broke the seal, Im guessing old gas. I suppose I have a big issue on my hands here. Im fairly mechanically inclined, and would like to get the bike up and running, but Im not sure if I bit off more than I can chew with this one. My hunch is that it will need a new oil seal... among other things.

Here is what the magneto looks like now:
IMAG0096.jpg

-It has 115 psi compression by the 4th kick
-it has spark
-And I just installed a new Mikuni 38mm carb

If anybody could give some tips, or information, I would greatly appreciate it. M
 
Sure sounds like you have a bad seal behind that ignition . Fortunately the seal is replaceable on that side without splitting the cases ( for the clutch side they have to come apart ). LEFT HAND THREADS for that flywheel nut ! Many crank stub shafts have been broken by trying to remove the nut the wrong way . You'll need a puller to remove the flywheel from the tapered shaft . The seal is in a housing that comes off by removing four screws . The seal is press fit in that housing . You will need the seal and probably a new gasket for the housing . Both parts and a puller should be readily available from various vintage Husky parts sources . A good bearing supply house should also be able to provide a seal from the numbers on the old one and you could make your own gasket from a sheet of auto supply gasket material . While you have it apart use a piece of Scotch-Brite and some electrical contact cleaner to get rid of any crud . Good luck . I have a 1975 WR250 that rips pretty good and I'll bet that 360 can really haul too !
 
Good advice above. If you end up removing the stator you probably should use loctite on the machine screws upon re assembly. Stale gasoline odor I associate with shellac, I know polyurethane has pretty much replaced it. The thing I have to wonder is did the bike lay on it's side with the fuel turned on? Otherwise the crank cavity must have filled or half filled with gasoline mixture. The only way I can see inspecting for corrosion in there would be to take the cylinder off. I don't know the threads of the puller but it is most likely the larger of the two possibilities, at least mine was and yours looks the same. That nut on the crank should be re tightened or at least tested with a torque wrench a few times after running it if removed. I find It kind of amusing I have a piece of agricultural equipemt with a similar tapered keyed connection and they tell you to put it on, get a drift and a big hammer and whack it and re torque and repeat until it doesn't turn any farther.

Fran
 
So Fran....k you must have been the previous owner of my '72 WR450. Took me 3 days to work the bolt off the crank.

Zburd - Good luck with your 360. Looks great.
 
Thanks guys... I cleaned up the magneto and and all the components this morning, then actually got the bike started later. It only took a hill by my house and a ton of sweat, but she started! She's still quite crabby, probably from not being woke up for the last 15 years or so, and it wont start from kick starting it.

I got a new plug, but was wondering if the jetting is off on the new 38mm Mukuni carb... Would anybody know what the proper jetting should be on a 76 360? its not a stock carb so Im a bit confused as to what it should be.

Currently the jetting is:

Main jet: 360
Pilot: 40
Needle jet: (166) Q-0
Jet needle: 6dh3

I live about 300 ft above sea level.

Also it seems as though there should be a cain roller just below the counter sprocket, but there is not one on my bike... Not sure if there is supposed to be or not, but it would make sense. There is a chain guide a bit further down the swing arm
 
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