• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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1977 390CR won't start

X

xrdv8

Husqvarna
Hi all, I bought a 1977 390CR at the Mecum auction a year ago. Nice low mileage original bike. However, when I tried to start it it was locked up. After soaking the top end for a few days I got it to cycle through. I pumped all the liquid out of the cylinder, checked for spark and cleaned the carb. No matter what I do I can't get it to start. In theory I have spark, gas and good compression. I raced a 1974 400CR for 10+ years and never had a problem starting it. SO, my question is could the reeds have "stuck" also preventing it from running? I'm not really used to Reed valve intake as I'm more of a '74 and earlier rider. Any comments appreciated! Maury
 
Yes there is spark. There is gas in the tank and a clean pilot jet. Though the plug deosn't look really wet after kicking it. That is why I suspect the Reeds?
 
xrdv8 said:
After soaking the top end for a few days I got it to cycle through. I pumped all the liquid out of the cylinder, checked for spark and cleaned the carb. No matter what I do I can't get it to start.
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What and how much did you use to soak it? Are you sure the crankcase is completely empty?

xrdv8 said:
could the reeds have "stuck" also preventing it from running
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Its possible but it should at least cough once and the plug would be dry.

xrdv8 said:
I bought a 1977 390CR at the Mecum auction
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Not knowing the bikes history its possible the timing is off.
 
Pull the plug squirt a little fuel down in the plug hole put the plug back in and kick it if it doesn't light off in a couple of kicks change the spark plug but before all that lay the spark plug on the cylinder head in the dark kick it and see if you get a spark
 
xrdv8 said:
Yes there is spark. There is gas in the tank and a clean pilot jet. Though the plug deosn't look really wet after kicking it. That is why I suspect the Reeds?
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It's challenging trying to diagnose from afar, but a number of smart people here are willing to help. Crash makes a good suggestion regarding the timing.

Also, bear with us that you have probably tried a number of things we don't know about, so the given suggestion may be something you have already done.

With that in mind - is the carb float bowl actually filling up with gas? I recently had a tank petcock that would barely flow gas. On top of that, the float needle would stick intermittently.

How is the air filter - foam filters, even new old ones, will start to disintegrate and play havoc with downstream carb and intake openings.

DeathFromAbove's 'tried and true' method will tell you if the bike is capable of starting. Then we can address the 'maybes' from there.
 
Remove the pipe,empty all gas and oil,tip the bike on its nose with rear wheel 180 making sure crank case is empty.....
 
i'f your sure you've got spark, & all fuel is out of bottom end, take the mag cover off, you probably have a broken flywheel key.
With cover off, see if you can turn the flywheel by hand, rock it back & forth, if it turns, key is broken.
 
Update: The air filter is brand new. I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and the pilot jet is clear. I even took off the left footpeg to get a better kick through. Took out the plug and kicked it to ensure there was spark. Compression is strong. If you push the tickle button on the carb is does overflow as it should. Shot some starting fluid into the plug hole and no joy. Took off the ignition cover and there is no rust and all looks normal. Didn't yet check the flywheel key. Next step it to do what JN316 suggested to turn it upside down to ensure the crank is empty. Then check the timing if I can remember how to do it!
 
Crashaholic said:
What and how much did you use to soak it? Are you sure the crankcase is completely empty?


Its possible but it should at least cough once and the plug would be dry.


Not knowing the bikes history its possible the timing is off.
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I used a bunch of penetrating oil to soak it and maybe a little Coke! I'll try turning it upside down to ensure all the crankcase is empty.
 
Yeah i always wanted a old 4 stroke big bore single and got lucky yesterday.
It's in pretty good shape hell I laid it down on the street this morning about 10 miles an hour using the front brake forgot about the back brake cuz it's on the left side hahaha
I was kicking that shifter down it was already in first your mind please tricks on your real quick
No damage or harm except for to my ego which is easily repaired come to find out with a beer!
No ignition, no battery, kill switch is the compression release.

Sorry to jack your thread XR back to your regularly scheduled Husqvarna no start problem.
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Yeah i always wanted a old 4 stroke big bore single and got lucky yesterday.
It's in pretty good shape hell I laid it down on the street this morning about 10 miles an hour using the front brake forgot about the back brake cuz it's on the left side hahaha
I was kicking that shifter down it was already in first your mind please tricks on your real quick
No damage or harm except for to my ego which is easily repaired come to find out with a beer!
No ignition, no battery, kill switch is the compression release.

Sorry to jack your thread XR back to your regularly scheduled Husqvarna no start problem.
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Welcome to the Right foot shifter world.
 
Jn316 said:
Remove the pipe,empty all gas and oil,tip the bike on its nose with rear wheel 180 making sure crank case is empty.....
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Yippee!!! I did what you said and was shocked at how much gunk was still in the crankcase! Probably a quart or more! Anyhow, cycled the piston a number of times, let it drain and was able to start the bike once I got it back together! Thanks again, I probably wouldn't have done that without your advice!
 
After starting it for the first time be sure and check the gearbox oil to make sure its not milky white or another funky color which would indicate the left crankshaft seal allowed some of the gunk to seep into the gearbox. Would be a shame to contaminate the clutch. Glad you made some progress!
 
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