• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1977 Husqvarna 250cr Project

John, You will need 15 inch center to center long shocks with that frame and swing arm. But the problem is you are going to have about 1 1/2" more travel in the rear than the front if you are still using the straight leg forks you showed near the beginning of this thread.

Marty

Now we are getting somewhere. I would look for the leading axel forks. That frame has the 29 degree rake and steers great in the woods.My 76 250WR had 32 degree rake when I got my 78 250CR much better in woods.That may turn even tighter with the straight leg forks.
Bill
 
John, You will need 15 inch center to center long shocks with that frame and swing arm. But the problem is you are going to have about 1 1/2" more travel in the rear than the front if you are still using the straight leg forks you showed near the beginning of this thread.

Marty

Okay, I believe I have the swingarm from the 360 Auto laying around. If I swap the black CR swingarm for the WR one will I be in the clear to order the 15 inch center to center shocks? I guess I still don't really understand the difference between the two swingarms.
 
Excellent point. But, is the ratio of front to rear travel that important for a trail rider, or are we talking about seat to front-end height? What about a shock length that would provide the proper seat to front-end height while keeping the shock stroke-length within the necessary rear wheel to fender clearance? :thinking:

Another option would be to acquire a set of leading axle forks that would raise the front end height.

I'd go for the fork swap but if just swapping the swingarms would work that sounds a little easer.
 
Now we are getting somewhere. I would look for the leading axel forks. That frame has the 29 degree rake and steers great in the woods.My 76 250WR had 32 degree rake when I got my 78 250CR much better in woods.That may turn even tighter with the straight leg forks.
Bill

It's probably going to be mostly used as a cross country bike so the streight leg forks and the 29 degree rake sound pretty good for that kind of racing.
 
Compare the two swingarms together and see what the difference is between the lower shock mount distances are from the rear and the pivot on the two of them.If I remember correctly the 77 WR used the earlier frame with the upper shock mounts pointing down.
 
Compare the two swingarms together and see what the difference is between the lower shock mount distances are from the rear and the pivot on the two of them.If I remember correctly the 77 WR used the earlier frame with the upper shock mounts pointing down.

On the frame I have the upper shock mounts are pointing up.
 
Excellent point. But, is the ratio of front to rear travel that important for a trail rider, or are we talking about seat to front-end height? What about a shock length that would provide the proper seat to front-end height while keeping the shock stroke-length within the necessary rear wheel to fender clearance? :thinking:

Another option would be to acquire a set of leading axle forks that would raise the front end height.


You certainly could use shorter shocks, like 14" or 14 1/2" but if it was my bike I would use the correct 77/78 leading axle forks and triples and the correct 15" shocks. Just my opinion.
Marty
 
I agree with Marty on the 15 inch shocks. it should be ok for trail riding,but I would look for a set of leading axel forks and triples I'm not sure if the Leleu hub will fit the Leading axel forks. .If you use 15 inch shocks with straight leg forks i would use the swing arm with the shock mounts closest to the rear of the arm that in theory should lower the back end till you decide if you want to change to leading axel forks down the Road.
Bill
 
Well it sounds like swapping the forks to the leading axel type is the prevailing opinion. Then I just keep the current CR swingam and get the 15 inch shocks? Does anyone have some pics of the correct forks I should be looking for?
 
Well it sounds like swapping the forks to the leading axel type is the prevailing opinion.

Yeah but unfortunately it may not be the cheapest. Forks and triple clamps will run $200 - $300, then you'll need to rebuild them. Finding a pair with stanchions that aren't pitted could take a while. When you do find a good pair at an affordable price be sure they haven't sat outside in the rain, internal rust can be catastrophic. And like Bill said, the hub you may have may not be what you want. May have to budget $300 - $600 for a setup ready to go.

Post a pic of the front end for us to determine the type of triple clamps and front wheel you have.

20240528_150606 25%.jpg
 
Yeah but unfortunately it may not be the cheapest. Forks and triple clamps will run $200 - $300, then you'll need to rebuild them. Finding a pair with stanchions that aren't pitted could take a while. When you do find a good pair at an affordable price be sure they haven't sat outside in the rain, internal rust can be catastrophic. And like Bill said, the hub you may have may not be what you want. May have to budget $300 - $600 for a setup ready to go.

Post a pic of the front end for us to determine the type of triple clamps and front wheel you have.

View attachment 106417

On page 1 there is a pic of the triple clamp as well as the front hub. The are from the WR. I think there is a pic of the forks as well in the previous pages of this topic.
 
I found these. Are they correct?

I'm not sure and I wouldn't trust the description. Some vintage Husky Ebay listings these days are inaccurate. You'll need confirmation from someone with good knowledge of this era like Marty. You don't want to get forks that are to long, i.e. from a later year. although you could let the stanchions protrude above the top clamp an inch or so.

As far as your existing triples go, they will mount a set of 35mm leading axle forks but like it was mentioned, the bike wouldn't turn as good on an MX track or on a woods trail as the stock CR triples. From what I understand about the type of riding you plan on doing, you'll need the CR triples. They're similar to the ones on the forks in the Ebay listing you attached. They don't protrude forward as much as the WR triples.

Also, I'm pretty sure that the 77 CR had the ball bearing steering race, 78 or 79 they went to the Timken bearing setup. The attached ebay listing does appear to be ball bearing to me, but once again you'll need to have someone more experienced in this era confirm it.
 
Yeah but unfortunately it may not be the cheapest. Forks and triple clamps will run $200 - $300, then you'll need to rebuild them. Finding a pair with stanchions that aren't pitted could take a while. When you do find a good pair at an affordable price be sure they haven't sat outside in the rain, internal rust can be catastrophic. And like Bill said, the hub you may have may not be what you want. May have to budget $300 - $600 for a setup ready to go.

Post a pic of the front end for us to determine the type of triple clamps and front wheel you have.

View attachment 106417

Thats my exact bike.
 
I'm not sure and I wouldn't trust the description. Some vintage Husky Ebay listings these days are inaccurate. You'll need confirmation from someone with good knowledge of this era like Marty. You don't want to get forks that are to long, i.e. from a later year. although you could let the stanchions protrude above the top clamp an inch or so.

As far as your existing triples go, they will mount a set of 35mm leading axle forks but like it was mentioned, the bike wouldn't turn as good on an MX track or on a woods trail as the stock CR triples. From what I understand about the type of riding you plan on doing, you'll need the CR triples. They're similar to the ones on the forks in the Ebay listing you attached. They don't protrude forward as much as the WR triples.

Also, I'm pretty sure that the 77 CR had the ball bearing steering race, 78 or 79 they went to the Timken bearing setup. The attached ebay listing does appear to be ball bearing to me, but once again you'll need to have someone more experienced in this era confirm it.


Crash, I agree with all you stated above. And to add to it the 78 390amx frame and 78 125CR frame was basically the same as the 77 250/390cr frame and the 78 390AMX frame and 78 125CR frame still used the ball bearing type steering races.


John those would work. They have the races for the ball bearings. $425.00 with shipping is expensive in my opinion. If you want send me a PM.

Marty
 
Crash, I agree with all you stated above. And to add to it the 78 390amx frame and 78 125CR frame was basically the same as the 77 250/390cr frame and the 78 390AMX frame and 78 125CR frame still used the ball bearing type steering races.



John those would work. They have the races for the ball bearings. $425.00 with shipping is expensive in my opinion. If you want send me a PM.

Marty

As to what Crash posted Husky always updated the CRs first and then used the older stuff for WRs and Autos till the older parts were used up.
Bill
 
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