• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1982 CR 430 Rebuild

What did you end up doing with the cracked case? Have got a few of those, myself, and having a hard time finding anyone who can weld magnesium. Beautiful job, by the way.
 
Picklito said:
What did you end up doing with the cracked case? Have got a few of those, myself, and having a hard time finding anyone who can weld magnesium. Beautiful job, by the way.
Click to expand...

I managed to get the case welded by a specialist welding company here in the England. The guy who welded it says that it the case didn't contain much magnesium as it was popping and fizzing whilst he did it. I'll post up a picture of it when I get a minute.

I'm stuggling to get spokes in England for the 17" rear wheel I'm trying to build using the Nordisk rim.

The primary case in the pic isn't the one I'm going to use, I've got a billet one to replpace it. The new one has a glacier bearing where the gear lever penetrates. The old casing is worn quite badly leading to poor gear selection.

Thanks for the kind comments....only 4 weeks till I ride her at the great Farleigh castle track...can't wait...:banana:
 
hvaloz2 said:
steve I can't remember if i posted this link http://www.cross-center.com/Katalog/2011/10._2011_Spokes.pdf l remember we wished for a data base for spokes for all years.... i think an 82 430 rear 17" would need kit no 50-349 maybe item 1 or 2 .
Click to expand...

Not seen that before mate - cheers.

I need 18 of both sets. Any idea where you can order from as they only appear to sell in Sweden. I've e-mailed them, but no response yet.

Cheers Steve
 
if you haven't got your spokes yet you could try central wheel components their based in birmingham and they tend to be fairly quick at getting there products shipped out.
 
Update on the re-build....

It's not going too well. After the odd gearbox issue I took the clutch off to check there was nothing untoward there.....I drained the oil out which was very clean...no gear teeth or swarf....good sign.

Stripped the clutch again no issues.

Then I re-read the manual. It said in the manual that when putting the drive shaft bearing in, the seal carrier (which doesn't actually have a seal) should be installed and the bearing pressed up against it.

When I looked the seal carrier (which has a male register) was slightly proud....so stupidly I tapped the bearing in a bit more to allow the seal carrier to sit flush....after I'd done this the drive shaft barely turned.....**************************************** The bearing must now be hard up against second gear making it difficult to turn the shaft. It free wheeled perfectly when spun before....****************************************

I'm now resigned to having to remove the engine and completely splitting it again...:(

To add insult to injury, I stripped another primary side casing thread putting the primary case back on....will I very get it back together and running right...:confused:
 
Nay, that's stinks, but if you want to cry, i took my buddys 73 125 cases apart 3 or 4 times, because we couldn't
get every thing to stop binding. Turned out to be the manual was wrong & the shims where shown on the wrong
gear shafts:banghead:. Let it sit for a few days, & come back to it, or you'll only start throwing things around & breaking
something else.
 
ruwfo said:
Nay, that's stinks, but if you want to cry, i took my buddys 73 125 cases apart 3 or 4 times, because we couldn't
get every thing to stop binding. Turned out to be the manual was wrong & the shims where shown on the wrong
gear shafts:banghead:. Let it sit for a few days, & come back to it, or you'll only start throwing things around & breaking
something else.
Click to expand...
Wise words, mines waiting until the weekend before I even lift the cover.
 
Stripped the old girl down again and I think I've found out what the problem was...looks like she was very close to seizing.......the score marks weren't there before as you can see.

I've stripped the gearbox and there's nothing to see in there. I did note that the con rod is 22mm wide at the small end and the small end is 25mm and there are no spacers. Its a woosner piston. I think thats odd...??

I've also noted that the burn on the head is very carbony...see pic. As it only ran for a while it seemed strange. I run her on 95 octane fuel with 40:1 Rock oil.IMG_0915.JPGP1010328.JPGIMG_0921.JPG

She only ran for 15 minutes max, and she seemed to coke up pretty quick ??
 
Wow that's a nice bike. Love the maroon tank CR's!

There are no spacers on the 430 wrist pin.

As for the carbon, your cylinder head looks like a rough surface, as if it was coarsely sand blasted. That makes the carbon stick more than it would on a smooth surface. Polish the chamber to a smoother finish and less carbon will stick.

Also notice there's only carbon on one side of the chamber - I'll bet that's the exhaust side, as it takes a bit of heat to form carbon, and the exhaust side is hotter.

When you're putting it back together this time, check the piston-to-head distance at TDC, then call Cometic and get the right base gasket so the clearance is 1.0-1.1mm. It will jet easier, run more cleanly down low, and keep the chamber cleaner.

And then post more pictures, please!
 
I used the standard 22mm small end and machined (ground slightly undersize) some spacers to take up the difference in gap approx 1.5mm each side.

I had to change the auxiliary shaft as that had picked up....The whole lot was another eye watering £400 (app rox $600)

The gearbox shifts sweetly now. Barrel has been re-bored and new wossner piston. I must admit I didn't measure the clearance between the piston on TDC and the head, but there was clearance.

She's all nearly back together yet again getting ready for Farleigh.

Got some Sunoco (leaded fuel 114 octane) to run at 30% with 70% Shell ultimax unleaded 99% octane. Going to run Maxima 927 synthetic Caster at 40:1 and hope she holds together for 4 races at Farleigh in the over 50's.

Dave Thorpe 3 times world champion rode her for charity last year for at least 6 races, so surely she can cope with just 4 with me on her...?IMG_0931.JPGIMG_0885.JPG
 
I'm concerned about those wrist pin spacers. You have to let the rod float side-to-side, limited only by the play at the crankshaft end. If your spacers cause the piston end to be the side-to-side limit... you'll have problems. Even on the 250 models that had spacers installed at the factory, it was still looser at the top than at the crank.
 
Picklito said:
I'm concerned about those wrist pin spacers. You have to let the rod float side-to-side, limited only by the play at the crankshaft end. If your spacers cause the piston end to be the side-to-side limit... you'll have problems. Even on the 250 models that had spacers installed at the factory, it was still looser at the top than at the crank.
Click to expand...

The problem as I saw it was that the wossner is 25mm against the wrist pin that is 22mm. That allows an awfuly lot of movement. As stated the previous owner had used a 25mm smallend without spacers. When I took the small end out is had signs of wear.

Surely allowing the rod to float by that amount could cause the rod to touch the crank cheeks ?
 
Bengt Husky said:
The problem as I saw it was that the wossner is 25mm against the wrist pin that is 22mm. That allows an awfuly lot of movement. As stated the previous owner had used a 25mm smallend without spacers. When I took the small end out is had signs of wear.

Surely allowing the rod to float by that amount could cause the rod to touch the crank cheeks ?
Click to expand...
Don't Worry Steve. The spacers are not so tight, and they will control the rod, stopping it from touching the crank cheeks. The Wossner pistons are machined to a different size where the rod goes between - compared to the Mahle pistons.
Andy.
 
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