1983 husqvarna 510 TE

[Peter]

I just picked up a decent 510 TE with the top of the motor disassembled. I am really pretty excited about it. I thought the motor would be junk, but its pretty good. I need valve guides installed. Most of the work is done. Are there any tricks that I should do to this motor to enhance reliability? Pete in Seattle

 

[adam6402]

Always liked the twin pipes on these, bad arse! Remember, you are a source of entertainment for all us husky nuts, so post often so we can see progress and more pictures the better. Have fun.

 

[SA63]

Nice find!
dont use the stock valve springs.
if you over rev ,miss a gear etc and no rev limiter apparently they can coil bind due to the tight coil spacing , allowing the the collets to pop out and dropping the valves, which is why a good 510 head goes for big $$$
I should know i paid $550 for a head because mine was wrecked...
So go for r&D springs or similar, kibblewhite/black diamond valves +guides. The spring tensions are a bit higher so harder to turn over but for peace of mind..
its worth spending the money on the head and its not cheap to get it done properly..
otherwise they are pretty reliable with good maintenance and diligent oil changing.

I have 3 seasons of racing on mine with no problems apart from something ive missed. Im going to tear the top end down this summer for new rings and cam chain as preventative maintenance

theres is piles of info elsewhere on the 510s in this forum.

there are usually pistons for sale on ebay by rik smits who gets runs of wisecos done in various sizes or you can use a wossner on the standard size.

All the bearings and the cam chain is readily availble from any good bearing supplier or the like.
A lot of the later model parts including 350, 410 and 610 cross over to this model .

Good luck, theyre a fantastic bike, although its takes a bit to get the suspension set up for the 4 stroke -and getting used to riding a 4 stroke..not to mention learning the starting drill.. but learn it and itll start within a few kicks always.

 

[Peter]

Thanks for the info. Do you have part numbers for this valve pieces? I hear that some later cams are a good swap and that newer pumper carbs cure starting issues. have you heard about that?

 

[hva-factory]

Make sure you use 1 piece valves. The ones they came with have the valve head welded to the valve stem. They are known to have the head of the valve come off!

Hot starting can be a problem, usually caused by being Rich on the jetting. Modern carburettors with hot start devices let air in to weaken the mix when trying to start them from hot. I run the standard 40mm Dellorto on mine - and it runs fine...

Andy.

 

[SA63]

You can find the valves on the kibblewhite web site, but Id give the head to a (head) specialist and he'll choose the right bits (springs/ valves) for you. hell do his magic with spring tensions etc. IMO its money well spent -from one whos had a crack at xl motor sport engines on methanosl, high comp, degreeing in the cam etc. and cocked it up..

I run more or less the standard 40mm dellorto (back to standard jetting of the later models after playing around), although its bits of of husaberg carb+ another (best of 2 carb. to make 1) Ive tried another 510 with a pumper and its more responsive down low. that other bike starts easier but it has a aftermarket ignition (not the pumper) the bike is very responsive down low any way...

Definately look up the info on the starting drill.. it will save a lot of heartache and shoe sole.. but for mine I need to turn up the idle by a 1 1/2 turns, 1-2 kicks with choke on ,then choke off and always starts 1 - 3 kicks. Choke for all cool motor starts through out the day - for me anyway. that 1 kick with the choke on is a fuel primerdoesnt even need to be the power kick. I turn off the choke asap if it starts on the choke (50% of the time) as it starts to run rough straight away and is idling pretty high too.
It starts well when hot, but when in between hot and cold it can be quirky.... If you start a race with the fuel off or drop it during a race its all over...come back in 3 -4 mins or wear yourself out kicking.. but thats common to all 4 strokes of the era. Although im 6'2, I usually stand on a milk crate or the wheels in a drain or gully to get max kick for min. strain on the hip..

The newer cams fit after you cut off the water pump drive. I dont know if the cam profile is the same. I havent seen a worn cam yet on the older ones, and i have several. the roller rocker bearings for the 410/ 610 are the same if yours are too sloppy.

If you can find someone who knows the motors great, but not so here - so hence use of aftermarket parts etc.

I see by your pic. you have a 490 maico, which I was riding before the 510. Id not ridden a 4 stroke for many years and it took me a good while to get a handle on throttle control in the corners on the 4 stroke.. the 510 is more fun , a great race starter, more forgiving than the 490 , but doesnt have the the outright balls or turning ability.. more fun to turn with the back wheel anyway! Also not the best on jumps, but rules on a grass track, big flat or off camber 3rd/4th gear corners..nothing better than passing an arch rival (on his 490) round the outside line flat out in 4th on the husky..

anyway you have a little work to do before that!

 

[ruwfo]

I'd agree with SA63 , about the Kibblewhite valves , i used them on my 510 motor as well & also about the starting drill LOL.

Husky John