• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

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1983 XC250 Clutch Issue - Need Advice

D

dnietsche

Husqvarna
AA Class
I am putting together a new clutch and am running into an issue.

I noticed when I moved the lever on the case the plunger moves but it does not move out the pressure plate, which I assume would release the pressure on the disks. It is almost like the plunger is not the correct length. I did adjust the clutch to 8mm of free play.

Any help would be fantastic!

Thanks
 
dnietsche said:
I am putting together a new clutch and am running into an issue.

I noticed when I moved the lever on the case the plunger moves but it does not move out the pressure plate, which I assume would release the pressure on the disks. It is almost like the plunger is not the correct length. I did adjust the clutch to 8mm of free play.

Any help would be fantastic!

Thanks
Click to expand...

What year/model/size motor are you working on? What is the length of the clutch push rod you have?

Marty
 
The bike is a 1983 XC250.

The push rod is 18.7cm.

See the fiber disks are below the fingers on the basket? Is that correct?

And then the YouTube link will show everyone what is happening. The clicking in the background is me working the actuating lever for the clutch. You can see the push rod moving but the pressure plate is not. I know the springs are out...it does the same with the springs in it.
 

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1. Some of the pressure plates are indexed (clocked) and must be right to sit down over both the clutch spring posts AND the inner hub splines. Make sure your pressure plate is solidly resting on the top fiber to be sure. If it's being held up, fix that first.

2. Not sure how you adjusted "8mm of free play" before you got the clutch assembled, but I'm noticing that your adjusting screw in the throw-out bearing is screwed way out. Most of mine are right about flush with the lock nut when correctly adjusted. Try that.

3. Your total clutch stack looks a little tall to me. Hard to tell in the photos, though. The top fiber plate is below the end of the basket fingers (good), but the PP looks to be right at the top edge of same fingers (bad). The O.D. of the PP must be inside the fingers, and must remain inside at full disengagement... it should not "lift up" above the fingers.
 
Pull the piece that the cable turns out of the case and inspect. It has a half round (more complex later years) hard faced surface that pushes on the rod that goes across the engine. That half round can go bad and the bore in the magnesium (no bearings or bushings in this era) as well.
 
Your missing the nut on the back of the adjuster on the plate? That adjuster screw and locking nut should be attached to the plate.
I may be incorrect but let me check.
Looking like the threads in the plate are stripped out?
That is moving more than it has to.
Looks like your push rod bearing is not touching the back of the plate.
So rod is short. Does the rod go through 22, 23, 24? Sorry for the multi advice !! Chris
 
Picklito said:
1. Some of the pressure plates are indexed (clocked) and must be right to sit down over both the clutch spring posts AND the inner hub splines. Make sure your pressure plate is solidly resting on the top fiber to be sure. If it's being held up, fix that first. I will check on this again. It seemed like I am down on the top fiber plate.

2. Not sure how you adjusted "8mm of free play" before you got the clutch assembled, but I'm noticing that your adjusting screw in the throw-out bearing is screwed way out. Most of mine are right about flush with the lock nut when correctly adjusted. Try that. Before I took the pictures I had everything together and adjusted correctly. I used the process in the manual. It only take a moment to put it back together so I will try it again.

3. Your total clutch stack looks a little tall to me. Hard to tell in the photos, though. The top fiber plate is below the end of the basket fingers (good), but the PP looks to be right at the top edge of same fingers (bad). The O.D. of the PP must be inside the fingers, and must remain inside at full disengagement... it should not "lift up" above the fingers.
Click to expand...
That makes sense. I will confirm.
 
fran...k. said:
Pull the piece that the cable turns out of the case and inspect. It has a half round (more complex later years) hard faced surface that pushes on the rod that goes across the engine. That half round can go bad and the bore in the magnesium (no bearings or bushings in this era) as well.
Click to expand...

Yes, it seems to be in good shape. There is a slight dimple, barely noticeable with my fingernail. The part does not have any side to side play and the bushing/seal is new.
 
DeathFromAbove said:
Your missing the nut on the back of the adjuster on the plate? That adjuster screw and locking nut should be attached to the plate.
I may be incorrect but let me check.
Looking like the threads in the plate are stripped out? No, one might have got dinged but they work great.
That is moving more than it has to.
Looks like your push rod bearing is not touching the back of the plate. That seems to tbe the case.
So rod is short. Does the rod go through 22, 23, 24? Sorry for the multi advice !! Chris
Click to expand...
Yes it does. The rod goes into the throwoout bearing/adjustment assembly. I think it is correct because the rod has wear markings on it.
 
Your push rod is the correct length. Your adjustment set screw is to far out in the video, re-adjust it. You may have the incorrect cam. I think in 87 Husky changed the cam profile and used a longer pushrod. Someone may have installed the later design cam.

Marty
 
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