• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 XC500

To retain bearings in a case I did not want to change, I used some 2" dia thin disks I had and drilled the centers with a clearance drill for a 3/8 threaded rod, Disk on top, disc on bottom and use 3/8 nuts to sandwich the bearing. Follow that for each bearing you want to retain and make sure the case is set so that the bearings fall out. I see so many try to get away with a torch instead of using the oven. More damage happens, I see it all the time on Thumpertalk.
 
I bought a new set of bearings complete from VH. We'll see what he uses for the ignition side. I got a lead on the Max bearing for the ignition side from GaryM, and will probably get one for the ignition side anyway. I've got a complete seal kit and NOS gasket kit. So when time permits I'll strip the cases to raw metal and repaint. I've got to make a rear Flange sleeve and Steering sleeve. Also my 3rd,4th and 5/6 gears on the clutch shaft are marginal. I haven't pulled the bearings from the left stub yet but will tune the crank after I do. Then I can close the cases and start on the clutch and kicker system. I did buy a straight kick lever so that's a plus. Ha Ha I still need a carb and upgraded intake setup and so much more.
 
jimspac said:
I see so many try to get away with a torch instead of using the oven.
I used a BBQ for the 450, I'll try the pottery furnace for this set. It has 2 zones but one is damaged. Plus I can run it with my rebuilt 1955 Kohler generator.
Picklito said:
Before you install the seals, of course.
I'll also freeze the bearings and use the bearing plates as stops.
 
The bearing seals can take upto 350°F. I cooked one because I had to heat the case upto 500° to get the repair sleeve for the right crank bearing into the case. The countershaft bear was the one that leaked but the seal for the bearing can be replaced without removing anything but the countershaft sprocket
 
But jim , why install a 30 year old bearing ? The countershaft bearing takes all the stress. Is was interesting to watch at dilla
,as for some reason, maybe was watching chain tensior work as we were comparing the Roller from Halls which as a 8mm mounting bolt vs most others have 6mm. Back to the point amazing to see have much travel on the chain and how much whip that tensior controls. So imagine how much that whip etc puts on the countershalf itself. Note - much less on Wr s with less travel. I replace all those on the right side of case always during split.
 
That bearing was only 10 years old as Joe Morel rebuilt that engine in 1996. And even if it was 30 years old,it would be a better bearing than what you can buy now. It had zero radial play.
 
So I got the bearings off the left stub and found this! I called Dave at Tritrophy and he sent me a new set of used very good condition stubs.So I split the crank and after finding the rod, big pin and bearing in good condition I pressed it all back together. Than I tuned it up.
If you click on my name you can see how the crank looked after being pressed together
View: https://youtu.be/mWU53bAIUyA
 

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I got the bearings out of the cases as well, and will clean and paint them up, new bearings complete, seals complete, and complete gasket set. Now I have a shit load to do!
 
Got everything painted up and the bearings are in the freezer. Should get to put it all together Tuesday nite.
 

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