• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 500CR 4SPD - MONSTER MILK

A

adam6402

Husqvarna
AA Class
IMG_0392.jpgIMG_0396.jpg I've come across 3 aircooled twinshock '500's in the last several months but for various reasons didn't have time to make the drive to where they were at and of course they were quickly sold.

I came across an add for this one and noticed the add was 5 or 6 days old and when I called and texted with no response figured it was sold. Fortunately it wasn't. While the add made the bike look terrible, the condition, once dirt and grime is removed looks excellent. While the former owner ad it for 9 years he said he always had difficulty starting and couldn't start it when I visited. It was clear he had not a clue how to properly start a husky. Per the owner, the bike had just recently been bored to 1st over, new piston, ring and Boyseen Power reeds, which is all true because he had boxes and I already pulled the top end off to verify, however there does appear to be a "BUT" which I will explain another day.

Any way, very thrilled with the bike and its condition, looking forward to making this a nice rider, although it will probably take me a while to get it the way I want it.
 
I think the guy that owned the bike for the last 9 years spent more time time and money on beer that he did riding and maintenance.

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Yep, no doubt about it, not off to a great start, 2nd owner not interested in maintenance. First picture is total contents of both fork legs, oil and some water. 2nd picture, just snapped damper rod retaining bolt. Sludge in one fork leg and rust and sludge in the other. High tech mod of the fork leg cap.

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I assume it was the first owner that cut the forks springs about 1.5 inches and installed spacers of about 2 inches to stiffen up the front. Fortunately I have a good set of forks that came with a parts bike for parts. Looks like they are interchangeable from '82 to '84 in regards to uppers and damper rods although lowers have a different part number. Out of curiosity, anyone know what is different between the two fork legs, 15-12-358-01 and 15-12-358-02 ('84)? The lower '84 legs look just like my '82s, double seals. I though that Husky at some point added a retainer clip to keep the seals in place, but these aren't those.
 
Some how my '84 ended up with the s-bend kick starter, besides '84 and '85 which have the same part number, will any of the '86-88 fit, seems they have different part numbers.

I did a thread search and didn't find anything there.

Help appreciated.
 
adam6402 said:
Some how my '84 ended up with the s-bend kick starter, besides '84 and '85 which have the same part number, will any of the '86-88 fit, seems they have different part numbers.

I did a thread search and didn't find anything there.

Help appreciated.
Click to expand...
Your Bike probably has a 1983 kicker, which could be have been factory installed if it's an early 84, as Husky used up whatever parts they had in stock at the factory when building bikes. Most 500 had this style kicker, but Husky was a small manufacture, so you get what you get when it
came to change over models.
Husky John
 

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ruwfo said:
Your Bike probably has a 1983 kicker, which could be have been factory installed if it's an early 84, as Husky used up whatever parts they had in stock at the factory when building bikes. Most 500 had this style kicker, but Husky was a small manufacture, so you get what you get when it
came to change over models.
Husky John
Click to expand...

Any idea to the question about whether '86 to '88 kickers will work? Just trying to sort out what years I should be looking for other than '84 and '85. Thanks Adam
 
Yes, the splines on the kick starter should be the same from 81 - 88, but the shape of the upper half is different. I actually like the early style
as the lever isn't as vertical, which makes it sometimes hard to kick over.
 
ruwfo said:
Yes, the splines on the kick starter should be the same from 81 - 88, but the shape of the upper half is different. I actually like the early style
as the lever isn't as vertical, which makes it sometimes hard to kick over.
Click to expand...

Do you mean because of the height of the straight kicker as opposed to the s-bend kicker? Based on some of the other threads, the less twisting force caused by the additional leverage placed on the kickstart shaft and and it's alignment with clutch ring gear, figure I would like to avoid that. Gears for the 500's are not exactly easy to find. Being 6'5", not too worried abouth height.
 
The straight lever definitely puts less stress on the case than the dog leg does, but it is tall. At 6'5" I agree... go for an 84 straight lever.
 
I rode a brand new one years ago.... up the bitumen in the rain to check it before delivery for a mate. When i hit 4th i thought the clutch had let go but it was just the back wheel spinning! i turned around and rode back quietly... what a beast.
 
Well, to say I've had major and expensive distractions in life this year is putting it mildly and put a total damper on this project, ultimately not sure what I'm going to do with this bike, but either way need to sort out a few things.

Back to the engine, just to make sure I'm not crazy, clearance seems to be way off on the piston/cylinder clearence, brand new piston and bore. In the two pictures, first at the skirt the gap is at least 0.010 probably closer to .013 and the other pictured gap is .007, could probably squeeze a .008 gauge in there. The piston is a Wossner, I know that I've read the big bore forged pistons require greater clearance compared to a 250, but these all seem excessive.

Any thoughts, should I go up to 87MM and rebore? What clearence do you guys recommend when utilizing a Wossner?


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I know that top desert race teams of that era ran the 430 and 500 top ends until they had about .009" clearance with the stock Mahle piston. That's very large, but the motors ran so hot at full desert pace that they did very well that way. Your first pic, with the feeler on either exhaust or intake sides of the piston, is the correct way to measure. The second pic, with the feeler at the end of the wrist pin... doesn't mean much!
 
XC 250 engine from parts bike.

Was tearing the engine down and as you can see its been sitting for a long time in a mud hole but was suprised at the excellent condition of the transmission, clutch ring and primary gears.

Due to the grime, I never noticed the crack in the case. Almost like the link roller was smashed from the opposie side and tried to push through the case on the side pictured. It looks fixable.
 

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Picklito said:
I know that top desert race teams of that era ran the 430 and 500 top ends until they had about .009" clearance with the stock Mahle piston. That's very large, but the motors ran so hot at full desert pace that they did very well that way. Your first pic, with the feeler on either exhaust or intake sides of the piston, is the correct way to measure. The second pic, with the feeler at the end of the wrist pin... doesn't mean much!
Click to expand...

The .010 guage slid in pretty easy, just tried to insert .014, and with a little wiggle, slid it in. Given the thickness of the flat guage and the curved gap, I'm not going to try .015, but it would probably slide in as well.

Assuming I should go up to 87MM, what would you recommend I tell the machine shop as to clearence?
 
Anyone ever use a 250 transmission in a big bore? I realize all of the ratios are different, was just wondering if that might be an option if I decide to split the cases on the 500 and swap out to a six speed? Or is that just a bad idea?

Haven't decided if Im going to split the cases or not yet, but I know that it is weeping oil out the sprocket drive shaft.
 
In case you were wondering, a 83 gas tank fits right on, & 81 seat too, i just swap them on mine & i'm liking it's looks, a little bit more.

Husky John
 

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