• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 500CR - Resto to Race

I have an 84 cr as well, it was also a 4 speed gearbox, but i found it difficult having the right gear at som corners, so a put a five speed gearbox from a later TC in and now its great to drive gears match under any circomstance on the track, and top speed is increased as well so on long straight pieces of the track, i don't hav to rev such high as with the 4 speed.
 
Hi Lucien,

My pipe fitted quite well for an after market part. There was a little issue with the rubber mount but other than that it cleared everything. I made my rear Silencer so I had no issues with alignment. I'll post some close ups of the rear Silencer in the next week...

Hope that helps.

Stu

Hi Stu, that'd be great, thanks. No rush, just when you have time.

Kind regards
Lucien
 
Hi Lucien,

Here's some pics of my Silencer on and off the bike.

Stu

Hi Stu, you made that silencer yourself? That's very impressive. Wish I had that skill.

Sorry I should have paid more attention, it's the expansion chamber I'm interested in as mine rubs on my frame and to correct it involves twisting it on it's mountings which causes the rear silencer to stick out, which causes the side panels to sit away fromt the frame too much. I'm beginning to think I may have a 430 expansion chamber fitted to my bike (will post up another thread with some measurements) so probably will be in the Market for a new chamber for my bike - or will just bash in some neat dents so it doesn't rub on the frame ;)

Kind regards
Lucien.
 
Hi Lucien,

No skill required by me... I just did the drawing for the end cap and had that spun... then had somebody else to weld it... Oh... I did cut the tube to lenght :) If interested I can reproduce it. Just PM me if you are interested.

With regard to your expansion chamber problem... This might work before you bash some dents in it. Mount the exhaust so that it doesn't hit the frame then cut into the joint (not all the way through but enough to allow you to adjust the alignment to the silencer) where the cone meets the exit tube. Once you have bent/aligned it you will have a gap which you can get somebody to fill or patch with weld. Might be cheaper than going and getting a new exhaust.

Hope that helps.

Stu
 
Hi Lucien,

No skill required by me... I just did the drawing for the end cap and had that spun... then had somebody else to weld it... Oh... I did cut the tube to lenght :) If interested I can reproduce it. Just PM me if you are interested.

Hi Stu, thanks that's a very kind offer, but I'm pretty well stocked up on silencers though, probably need to shed a few if anything!

The problem with twisting the expansion chamber (and actually i added a cm to the little exhaust thingy that comes out of the cylinder) is that it not only causes the tail pipe to come out at the wrong angle but it also causes the long cone that runs back along the bike to stick out. I will have a play though!

Kind regards
Lucien
 
Ok guys I need some help here... Here are a few photos of my 84 CR 500. I can start this bike but it has a serrious kick back problem. First it damn near broke my right ankle... Then I started standing on a chair and kicking it through with my toes. After a few heat cycle starts it started kicking back worse and damn near severed my achilies tendon..... 44mm Sudco Mikuni carb... Jeted to factory spec. What is the corect timing? which direction would retard and or advace the timing? Should I advace it to see if it helps?Bdds Ck. 2012 063.jpgBdds Ck. 2012 057.jpg1979 KTM 420 059.jpg1979 KTM 420 050.jpg_DSC6829.jpg
 
Sounds like your timing is advanced to far. Take cover off, use kicker to see which direction flywheel rotates, then looesen stator and turn opposite way just couple mm's and retry. My old 430 did that if I was advanced to far. But I think if it is retarded too much it will act the same. I'd also bring it up on TDC and look to see how timing marks line up. Sometimes I get that ass backwards, an others can chime in.

Nice lookin rockets!
 
Sounds like your timing is advanced to far. Take cover off, use kicker to see which direction flywheel rotates, then looesen stator and turn opposite way just couple mm's and retry. My old 430 did that if I was advanced to far. But I think if it is retarded too much it will act the same. I'd also bring it up on TDC and look to see how timing marks line up. Sometimes I get that ass backwards, an others can chime in.

Nice lookin rockets!


Don't you mean the same direction. If the piston is already "Before" TDC or advanced, to retard it you would turn the stator towards TDC. Timing specs for a 500LC is roughly 2.64mm BTDC or 18 degrees BTDC. I'm not sure about the air cooled but can't be too much diference. If the bike is kicking back that hard the next thing that happens is you get a broke foot, or worse yet, a broken center case. You need a dial indicator to be 100% sure on the timing.
 
Don't you mean the same direction. If the piston is already "Before" TDC or advanced, to retard it you would turn the stator towards TDC. Timing specs for a 500LC is roughly 2.64mm BTDC or 18 degrees BTDC. I'm not sure about the air cooled but can't be too much diference. If the bike is kicking back that hard the next thing that happens is you get a broke foot, or worse yet, a broken center case. You need a dial indicator to be 100% sure on the timing.
Yep.
Against direction of rotation = advanced .
With direction of rotation = retarded .
I always use a dial indicator.
Try 2mm as a start.
 
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