• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1984 WR400

Right hand shroud giving me loads of grief. Seems intent on fouling the tank. I can see previous owner has already filed rad mounts to try and lower it and I had it all on n off about 5 times but still the rad shroud won't Sit under the tank.

Soon it will get 'trimmed'. Mr angry at moment. A job for another day I think....

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if memory serves the manual calls for anywhere between 5w thru 20w. many here have good luck using atf in their forks, i do as well usually about 500-525 cc each leg for me. 20w may be a bit thick, as usually it seems the husks like lighter oil and heavier springs. atf falls around 8-10w as far as fork fluid goes.
i ride very little mx. just lots of trails at varying speeds. some open and faster and some slower technical woods stuff.
 
Just for reference, I run 15wt fork oil in my 83 500CR which also has heavier springs. 20wt would probably be too much as noted by the guys above.
Build is looking really nice.
 
justintendo said:
if memory serves the manual calls for anywhere between 5w thru 20w. many here have good luck using atf in their forks, i do as well usually about 500-525 cc each leg for me. 20w may be a bit thick, as usually it seems the husks like lighter oil and heavier springs. atf falls around 8-10w as far as fork fluid goes.
i ride very little mx. just lots of trails at varying speeds. some open and faster and some slower technical woods stuff.
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I'm running .5 litre in each leg 20w. I'm mx only and have been running this in the 250s too. I tested 10 then 15 and settled on the 20w. The 15w was ok too but I just wanted a bit more..... Personally I find the uprated springs front n back 'bring the 84 chassis' to life. Feels very safe n predictable
 
I thought that may be the case, I don't hear many positive things about DC, it seems some of their products are ok and others are well below par, shame there aren't some competitors!
 
ajcmbrown said:
I thought that may be the case, I don't hear many positive things about DC, it seems some of their products are ok and others are well below par, shame there aren't some competitors!
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Need Maier to get involved believe they make all the nightmare kx and elsinore cr glossy panels now. But then fit can still be an issue :(
 
I only meant that Maier is still a mould off a piece of plastic so sometimes they are not perfect. But I have used them on a CR and KX restore and would rate them above DC. Obviously DC does not do a 'GLOSS' finish and I find they get 'brittle' very quickly too. But then we have to be grateful as they are the only ones who seem to make the 84 Sidepanels!!!



Slosh- This tank is painted. Am going to see how it goes. I have another tank i'm going to sand and polish time permitting.
 
Darren, I had a similar issue with the DC side panels on my old KLX250. I warmed them with a hot air gun to soften them and re-shape. Yours look a little beyond that though.

In defence of DC though, the last couple of sets of ML frame front and rear guards have been super shiney, and have lasted well. The oldest front guard is now 12 years old and showing no signs of breaking when I throw the bike on the floor !
I guess a great deal of the "fit" issue is down to the original that the pattern was taken from and the amount of time taken in preparing the moulds.
 
Oh ok, I get it.
I was just reading a page about restoring plastic tanks and panels, it is motoplasticlean and he seems to get good results but it is time consuming.
 
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