• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1988 TE 510 Husqvarna project4 stroke

justintendo said:
they are solid machines and good performers, but must be maintained
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Your not wrong there ive found a good few minor issues mainly brass sleves and bushes worn also idler bearing had the idler gear on a right wobble making off square mesh with small clutch gear so its destroyed on one bike but as ive nothing to loose im having it recut welded and case hardned
im going to do a strip and inspect every 20 hours testing repaired or modified parts see what gives and what needs beefing up
i cant see the standard husky stuff holding up to much abuse
almost every bolt was loose between the 2 motors
 

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im not sure about slamming downshifting without letting off the gas..but with good aggressive riding its not uncommon for them to go quite awhile without bottom end repairs..
ive really never noticed many bolts coming loose, once assembled properly
 
the biggest problem I have is getting it to start. Sometimes it runs first kick, sometimes second or third, sometimes 20. I don't know how to choke the bike. I also don't know how to unflood the bike or how to tell if it's flooded
 
Normally you just find top dead centre, ease the kickstarter just past and kick like you mean it. If it floods, killswitch off, throttle wide open, fuel off, decompressor held against bars while kicking through about 6-7 times, put everything back and boot it like you mean it! This method has always worked for me over 20+ years of big bore four strokes.
One other tip I learned with KTM620's with Dellorto PHM, don't know if it applies to 510's, if the bike sits for more than a week or two, turn the fuel off and drain the float bowl before you do anything, then let it refill with fresh fuel.
Tony.
 
Oh and did I mention............kick it like you mean it!
And no throttle at any time when trying to start it. When you have it running, make sure the idle mixture is spot on, makes hot starts a lot easier.
 
I think most of the items you talk about can be found here and have already been discussed , just search in the search box and you'll find all you can stand to read . lol
Good luck on the bike and at the Fl. DMV.
 
84scrambler said:
I think most of the items you talk about can be found here and have already been discussed , just search in the search box and you'll find all you can stand to read . lol

Good luck on the bike and at the Fl. DMV.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna attempt to register it in another state, florida requires waiting months and MONTHS and tons of money, you also have to lawyer up and go to court JUST so they can appoint you a title. I'm gonna try my best lol. Bike has never had a title or registration before.
 
An alternative, as to the starting drill, I have found it way easier to just get on board, at the same movement pull in the clutch while snicking it into 1st or second..all one movement..while still rolling backwards, and just barely, let out the clutch and the motor will come back against compression, right where you want it.
You will move backwards only 4"-12", more that that and yer doin it worng.
Then snick back to neutral.

Then kick like They Really Are After You..

or bump start, my favorite..2nd gear, two steps boom!..and do that sidesaddle and roar away while swinging yer leg on right. Be smooth and amaze your friends too. I only highsided once...that I remember. That used to be the road racing start when first gear went to 50 or 60, plenty of time. On a low geared dirt bike it might be more of a problem, (fun for everybody watching) wheelie right on your head instead, haha...errr.
Meanwhile engine is whining away at 8 grand while (I) get my big arse back around on the seat...sigh.

You will find it quickly becomes a set of movements that is so smooth you won't even know you are doing it..

anyway, I have no patience for that other decomp lever///kick just past tdc/// look in the little dirt filled window with the sun usually right onit....bah.:thumbsdown:..I got kneecapped too many times, my leg slammed right up into the bars, yeeouch!

And you will find out whether you need no or partial throttle when
a.cold
b.warmed up/just run
c.run but sat a while

and, of course...YMMV



:Looks like you are having fun and learning about a great bike too, best of luck!
 
thank you so much bodger! I am going to get the mufflers welded professionally to ensure everything is sealed up to perfection. I don't want leaks and any problems. Ill send a pic this way once I install seat cover, exhaust, and finish the frame! it will look excellent
 
oh, how do I jet the carb? I don't know how to tune it.

high speed runs awesome, but when I give it a tiny bit of gas it bogs down a little
 
The Biggest problem with the 510 motor is starting, if you do it wrong...

Here's my technic

1) gas on , choke lever up (vertical position)
2) kick the bike thru , 10-12 times, meaning you not really trying to start it, this draws fuel into cylinder.
3) Get the piston at top dead center, easiest way is, is to put the bike in 2nd gear and roll it backwards, til it stops.
now back in neutral, using the kick starting, get it past top dead center, go about a 1/4 of the kicker travel NO more.
4) turn the idle screw up, so it will idle fast.
5) give it a good kick over, may start on the 1st kick, if not reposition the piston , go back to step 3 & start over.
6) once it starts , Don't turn the choke off, let it run for a couple minutes with the choke on****************************************! the 510 are very cold blooded
so let it warm up real good.
7) Now take the choke off & re adjust the idle... remember if it stalls cause it's NOT warm up enough, make sure you turn
the idle back up & choke on ..

I know this sound really crazy, but this actually the start procedure that was printed in Dirt Bike back in the day & came right
from Husky after the test rider complained they couldn't start the then brand new bikes.

And it works, I used it for a bunch of years , before I final sold my 86 510.


Husky John
 
Ruwfo, Thank you that works perfect! it starts every time now!
And, I made my own airbox because the original one is no where to be found. mine looks very similar to the original. I'm just using parts from an existing box to fulfill my carb protection wishes
 
CP4pSHU.jpg



The only problem I have is the exhaust shoots a bunch of flames out when doing VERY light revving. I do understand heavy revs or being a dumb*** will kill the engine but is this normal...?
I installed air box and I am getting a new tire soon. I'm removing that stupid "Husqvarna" Decal I put there and I'm gonna put the yellow number plate there


and another thing, it doesn't run on choke at all, it just needs choke up to force fuel into the engine and then once you kick start it itll fire right up and start running like it's already warm. it's kinda weird. So I found these two ways work, kick it 7 or 8 times while on choke (will not start) then kick it twice without choke and it will start right up. strange huh? It also doesn't feel like an actually dirt bike when riding it. I might clean the carb once more to make sure I had gotten every last corner in it but last I checked it was very clean
 
Sanded down the plastics and made them clear as day! it was rather easy, however as I stated there are a few hotspots on the muffler plastics that are rotting, I will reinforce them with a JB weld. Ill replace the front fender (Only 18$) and just start over on the gas tank plastics. It should only take 4-5 hours time total to make this bike free of paint. Such a stupid mistake I have made, but oh well. The decals were not expensive and I have many more. The yellow decal is easy, I have much more. I cant wait to show you the completed bike! :) I also got a waterproof decal wrap to act as number plates. Was only 5$ Better than spending 50$ for older decals. Same exact look.

Oh and btw, the bike now starts first or second kick. IT runs very good now. Low speed still needs some adjustment but it runs, idles, and starts up just nicely! I am going to enjoy this bike.
 
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