• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 1995 WXC/WXE 125 Rebuild

Not a problem Utopia.
I am not home ATM back out at work but I will be home next week end.
Try the hot/cold method for the crank install it worked for me.
I suppose it depends on how tight the crank to bearing tolerance is on yours the original crank fell in and the newer one wasn't that tight.
Don't press it in or you can ruin the crank alignment. You need to puull it in to the bearing via the shaft.
 
Thanks AUSKY. Just got the crank back today and a bunch of parts - seals, bearings, gaskets, cables...It's like Christmas in July!
 
utopia said:
I finally got back on this rebuild project and made some progress. Had to get a steering stop welded on the frame, cut off the welded-on stabilizer post that the PO was using for a steering stop (idiots), replaced the tweaked triple clamps with some I found on ebay (the PO musta balled this thing up hard!). I painted the frame, footpegs, and sidestand. Changed the fork oil and got the chassis mostly together. I have a vertex piston on the way, the crank has been rebuilt by Cooksey and is on it's way back, and I have a whole bunch of parts coming from Halls (They had almost everything I ordered in stock - I was suprised - the only thing from this order that was discontinued was the wheel bearing seal retainer that threads into into the left side of the hub).

So I think the only things that are hard to find for this bike are the rod kit, wheel bearing seal retainer, shop manual, and plastics - not to bad. I found a rod, and I can make due without the rest. I may be able to find a seal retainer from an older model Honda CR - Does anyone what year may fit? If not it will still work without the seal. My trials bike doesn't have wheel bearing seals and it works just fine. The sealed bearings are exposed and they still spin like new after 4 years.

As soon as I get the rear wheel bearings I'll have a rolling chassis. Then it will be on to engine assembly.

AUSKY, Could you look up a few things from your manual for me sometime?
1. Recommended NGK spark plug?
2. Recommended fork oil weight and level? I used 5 wt and 110mm oil level - just want to know if I am close.
3. Recommended jetting for sea level for the 35mm TM carb - just need a starting point (I'm actually at 6,000 ft but I'll figure it out from there)
4. Recommended timing alignment of stator. I did mark it before I took it off, but I don't see any index marks in there.
Thanks.

I did find a manual for an '04 so I can get all of the engine torque specs from there - I doubt they are much different.

I'm not very good about getting photos when I'm working on it. I'll try to remember to get a few to post.

Oh, and another question. Does anyone know if the crank can be installed into the right side bearing without the OEM crank installer tool? It looks like it is a press fit. Will it go in by freezing the crank and applying a little heat to the bearing? Looking at other crank installer tools (like Tusk), I don't think they will work on this crank. I suppose I could make one somehow.
Click to expand...

Hi Utopia
I found these specs in the manual mate.
1- PULGS: CR - NGKB10EGV / WR NGKB95EGV - 0.5MM GAP or CHAMPION C57
2 - FORK OIL: SAE 10 @ 125MM WITH SPRING OUT, TO TOP OF TUBE
3 - JETTING TM35: 5000 FT - PJ 45 MJ 280 @10 DEG C. 0 FT PJ 50 MJ 320 @20 DEG C slide 3, 2 turns out on the air screw, 6AEL4-60 needle in 4th slot
4 - TIMING: CR 0.8 MM ATDC, WR 1.6MM ATDC. Timing marks are at the 2 O'clock position for the CR(under the RHS screw) & 12 O'clock for the WR and you will also need special tool 800079831 for it. Or have an educated guess and fine tune by feel.

Cant wait to see some build pics!!

Hope this helps.
Damo.
 
Thanks AUSKY. Here are some photos. I took very few photos this winter when I was disassembling and cleaning everything, but I took a few more as I have been rebuilding it.

Disassembly - The amount of time spent cleaning the 18 years of hardened grease and grime off of everything was really incredible. The goal here was not to make it brand new again, but to make everything clean and 100% mechanically sound and reliable enough to take it on long rides in the mountains.
156.JPG


Main bearings in and cases ready for assembly.
162.JPG


I put the crank in the freezer and heated the inner bearing race and it slipper right in.
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Engine together.
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I had to get a steering stop welded on the frame and cut off the welded-on stabilizer post that was being used for a steering stop, so I ended up painting the frame, footpegs, and kickstand. Chassis here is back together and ready for the engine.170.JPG


Engine back in
179.JPG


I also painted the outer clutch cover, impeller cover, and flywheel cover. (I had some paint leftover from a bicycle frame repair that was a pretty good match)
182.JPG


Left side.
185.JPG



I installed the stator in the same position that it was in when I took it apart since I didn't see any marks on it (I marked it before I took it apart and made sure I didn't remove the marks when cleaning. I actually got it running last week. It started on the second kick and seemed to run pretty well. I think the 45 pilot that is in is too lean, but I only ran it in the driveway up to temp and shut it off. This weekend I got everything else back together except for the hanguards. I'll get some final photos soon.
 
Utopia, Your rebuild looks like the work of a Master. The bike looks as modern as my 11 model and very clean. I hope that My results will somewhat compare. The kick stand has me wondering if it would fit an 11. I'm always leary about alloys and your stand looks bullet proof.
 
Yes ditto on what Sabortooth said looks fantastic great job !
What forks do you have there Utopia? They don't look like the original Marzocci Magnums?
look like USD showas.
if you find the original foot pegs too small they are interchangeable with the later models as well. Well done man! That white frame had me reminiscingu
 
Thanks sabertooth. It really was a lot of work, but pretty cool when it all comes together. I think the only things I didn't disassemble and clean were the spokes out of the wheels and the shock. It ran so poorly when I got it, I figured I'd get it running first before changing the shock fluid. I can measure the stand if you want, but I'm not sure if it will fit. The newer ones are curved to miss the side plate. This one is straight and touches the side plate when it's up.
 
The forks are 43 mm USD Showas. Stock on the 95. Yeah, the footpegs are small and high. I noticed that the ones from my 09 250 would fit and be in a better position. I'll give these a try first.
 
It doesn't look so great with the old bodywork, but it is original. You don't see many or these around anymore. Here are some completed photos:

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I'm gonna have to take care of this left-side pipe. Probably hard to come by.
008.JPG


Too bad I injured myself last weekend. I probably won't be able to ride it for awhile.
 
Hi, let me join the club of fortunate or unfortunate husky owners. I own one of this babies. I love this bike wich I enjoyed for 2. Years in Washington state. Then I went overseas with military. 16 years later (bike in storage) still looks fairly new. Rode a few times a year. Its running strong and looks good. Rebuild shock and forks with Race tech parts. My dilemma should I ride until death. What I get from this forum there is no parts in the planet.. my concerns are cone and piston. Appreciate your feedback.
 
Cuso1956 said:
Hi, let me join the club of fortunate or unfortunate husky owners. I own one of this babies. I love this bike wich I enjoyed for 2. Years in Washington state. Then I went overseas with military. 16 years later (bike in storage) still looks fairly new. Rode a few times a year. Its running strong and looks good. Rebuild shock and forks with Race tech parts. My dilemma should I ride until death. What I get from this forum there is no parts in the planet.. my concerns are cone and piston. Appreciate your feedback.
Click to expand...

Pistons are available from Vertex. Same as 1995 WR/CR125 that were available in countries other than the US. The only part I had trouble finding was a rod kit which I found in Europe. I don't know what you mean by "cone".
 
in this thread they stated everything but a few parts is available online..

resto looks great, i have the same bike in 360 flavor...they are different looking thats for sure, but if you can get a big H back on the shrouds itll look great...i recognized that front number plate with the ocean splash graphics...my shrouds have it too still in decent shape
 
Hi,
This is an old topic but would anyone give the dimensions of the crankshaft to HUSQVARNA 125 1995 (WR/WRE 125 1995)?
43c698225bd3a57beecc6d36458745267eba85fe.png


I mean this measure from the crankshaft (distance of crank webs).
 
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