• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2004 TE250 jetting?

racemx904

racemx904

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Anyone rejetted their 04?

I have to give her 3 squirts before every start....

and cold is hard as hell to start...

idles a little funny after warmed up....

it just seems a little lean on the bottom...

and where is the air screw...looked around a little dont see it...is it under the black cover?
 
was it working fine before????? if yes re jetting is probably not the right cure for you.
 
You need to be sure of the fuel first. It needs to be fresh, or at least have some fuel stabilizer in it such as Stabil. When in doubt drain it, and put in a car/truck - they don't seem to care too much.

Once you are reasonably sure of the fuel, and assuming you don't have any plugged or varnished jets (it is a 2004), and assuming you can adjust the fuel screw somehow while it is running (usually with an after marker fuel screw)....

Then start it up in neutral, with enough rpms to keep it running. Turn in the fuel screw until the idle starts to go down. Then turn it out until the idle starts to go down. The idea is to set the fuel screw to max rpms.

If you need to have the fuel screw out more than... 2.5 turns? You should put a bigger pilot jet in it.



*usually I need to keep turning down the idle speed, it is easier to detect max rpms that way.
 
A 250cc has a TINY idle jet, varnish and crud can plug an idle jet very easily. Pull the bowl, take the idle jet out and clean it with a non-metal object, plastic, straw, nothing that would enlarge the hole, that ruins the jet.
 
OlderHuskyRider;134665 said:
A 250cc has a TINY idle jet...
Click to expand...

Not really?

I've jetted several in a variety of non-610 engine sizes, the 250s tend to use a 42, the 510s tend to use a 45 (ish) - something like that.

But yes they need to be clean.


EDIT - not sure what carb the 2004 had, I've only rejetted Kiehin.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlderHuskyRider
A 250cc has a TINY idle jet...

Coffee;134673 said:
Not really?
Click to expand...

The hole in the brass jet is tiny compared to the main jet, my reference to "tiny" is a reference to the size of the actual hole, I've cleaned dozens of idle jets on many brands of carb'd bikes, the "tiny" holes get clogged very easily.
 
racemx904;134703 said:
32.5 is stock on the te250...
Click to expand...

What is actually in the bike? Have you opened up the carb?


According to the owners manual I am looking at, stock was a 22.5...

As I mentioned earlier, my comments were pertaining to Keihin. I was not sure what the 2004 TE250 you have has, it turns out to be a Mikuni TMR36. So I am not am not sure how much help I would be.
 
I'm running a 10E01-51 needle, 0 pre-load on the accelerator pump, 25 pilot and 155 main in my 04 TE250 with FMF muffler w/quiet core.

If your bike has sat for any length of time, the accelerator pump spray nozzle and pilot jet could be clogged resulting in the bike not starting. I use very fine wire jet files and some contact cleaner spray to clear the clogs.

Hall's also used to do a carb mod on the Mikuni TMR carbs that improved starting and performance. Might be worth looking into.
 
it never really sat....but I am gonna pull it apart myself and check it all....

how do you adjust the AP?

do you have the Halls mod?
 
duke...

wondering if you know why they did this....the tie wire

to figure out my preload do I measure from the black plastic to the the silver piece...the 2 the have tied together....

te250carb.jpg
 
racemx904;135951 said:
duke...

wondering if you know why they did this....the tie wire

to figure out my preload do I measure from the black plastic to the the silver piece...the 2 the have tied together....

te250carb.jpg
Click to expand...

Replied to your PM on this, haven't seen or tried this mod on the Mikuni. I've seen the O ring/safety wire mod on the Keihin FCR. Does the wire on your carb deactivate the A/P? Does your A/P squirt when you twist the throttle? To adjust the preload, you should look at the black plastic piece and the A/P pump shaft, (the thing with the accordion rubber boot). It is blocked in your picture by the A/P pump cover.
 
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