• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2006 TE250 (300) Hard starting - Pulser coil ?

J

JCF

Husqvarna
I have had a lot of trouble starting my 06 TE 250, now a 300. From cold it will almost never start with the button - but if I kick it will usually start with a bit too much effort. But no where near as well as when it was new. Once started it runs great. I have verified jetting, plug etc... all good. Somewhere I read that a weak pulser coil could be a problem and that it should test at 150-200 ohms and at least 2V when cranking. (can't find where I read this)
Just tested mine and it tests at 94 ohms and 0 volts when cranking.

Can anyone provide any thoughts etc... Could this be my starting problem?

Thanks,
John
 
Next time you go to start your bike...take the spark plug out and drop a small amount of fuel down the spark plug hole. Get a straw put it in your fuel tank hold the end so some stays in the straw Then put a few drops down your spark plug hole...replace the plug. Start bike. If it still has troubles then you can start looking at the electrical.
Just a thought.:thinking:
 
JCF said:
I have had a lot of trouble starting my 06 TE 250, now a 300. From cold it will almost never start with the button - but if I kick it will usually start with a bit too much effort. But no where near as well as when it was new. Once started it runs great. I have verified jetting, plug etc... all good. Somewhere I read that a weak pulser coil could be a problem and that it should test at 150-200 ohms and at least 2V when cranking. (can't find where I read this)
Just tested mine and it tests at 94 ohms and 0 volts when cranking.

Can anyone provide any thoughts etc... Could this be my starting problem?

Thanks,
John
Click to expand...
This is a stupid questions but Have valves been checked? Tight valves make anything damn near impossible to start.
 
Not a silly question at all may well be the issue if the valves are out of spec.
Put an iridium in and use the highest octane from the pump you can.
Is it running hot-might be a bit lean being a carby model
 
Thanks for the ideas. I have double checked the valves and they are within spec and I have been through the carb. It is clean and the jetting is set per the JD specs and once it starts it is spot on. I have also put in a new plug & fresh gas - no difference. (oh yeah - the battery is charged & fresh too)
My research has found that a weak pulser coil could cause a weaker spark when using the e-start. I just cant find any verifiable info on how to check the pulser coil. Can anyone provide this info or other ideas of how to test it?

Thanks!
 
JCF said:
Thanks for the ideas. I have double checked the valves and they are within spec and I have been through the carb. It is clean and the jetting is set per the JD specs and once it starts it is spot on. I have also put in a new plug & fresh gas - no difference. (oh yeah - the battery is charged & fresh too)
My research has found that a weak pulser coil could cause a weaker spark when using the e-start. I just cant find any verifiable info on how to check the pulser coil. Can anyone provide this info or other ideas of how to test it?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

How good is your battery? Lots of issues are from wimpy batteries.
If your idea about the e start causing the pulser coil to go weak is true when starting cold, then isolating the e start system should diagnose that problem. use some jumper cables and a car battery to jump the starter directly on the bike. Don't use the switch to start the bike. Jump it directly by clamping the grounding connection on the motor and the 12v+ lug on the starter When you do this the starter will turn by simply touching the lug and jumper cable together so have everything ready to go and disconnect immediately if the bike starts. this will allow the battery in the bike to have full power to fire the coil without any drain aside from it's own usage. If the bike now starts easy, you've found the problem. 1)battery could be bad 2)wiring or a connection is insufficient to supply enough current or voltage to said parts. 3)pulser coil might be bad, although Its not the fault of the coil if it's not getting enough voltage or current to do it's job.

could also be an auto decompression issue. If it turns slow and hard the starter just cant give it enough speed to fire, which would compound any other voltage/current issues you might be experiencing.


the pulser coil doesn't read an exact 2 volts when starting. It an average over a very short amount of time so some multimeters have a tough time reading it.
 
Soviet said:
How good is your battery? Lots of issues are from wimpy batteries.
If your idea about the e start causing the pulser coil to go weak is true when starting cold, then isolating the e start system should diagnose that problem. use some jumper cables and a car battery to jump the starter directly on the bike. Don't use the switch to start the bike. Jump it directly by clamping the grounding connection on the motor and the 12v+ lug on the starter When you do this the starter will turn by simply touching the lug and jumper cable together so have everything ready to go and disconnect immediately if the bike starts. this will allow the battery in the bike to have full power to fire the coil without any drain aside from it's own usage. If the bike now starts easy, you've found the problem. 1)battery could be bad 2)wiring or a connection is insufficient to supply enough current or voltage to said parts. 3)pulser coil might be bad, although Its not the fault of the coil if it's not getting enough voltage or current to do it's job.

could also be an auto decompression issue. If it turns slow and hard the starter just cant give it enough speed to fire, which would compound any other voltage/current issues you might be experiencing.


the pulser coil doesn't read an exact 2 volts when starting. It an average over a very short amount of time so some multimeters have a tough time reading it.
Click to expand...

Great info - I will give it a shot tonight.
 
Well - back to the drawing board.
I did as detailed above with the seperate battery (a freshly charged deep cycle marine battery) and the bike didn't start any differently than it did with its own battery - I am going to assume that the pulser coil is fine.
Thanks,
 
JCF said:
I have had a lot of trouble starting my 06 TE 250, now a 300. From cold it will almost never start with the button - but if I kick it will usually start with a bit too much effort. But no where near as well as when it was new. Once started it runs great. I have verified jetting, plug etc... all good. Somewhere I read that a weak pulser coil could be a problem and that it should test at 150-200 ohms and at least 2V when cranking. (can't find where I read this)
Just tested mine and it tests at 94 ohms and 0 volts when cranking.

Can anyone provide any thoughts etc... Could this be my starting problem?

Thanks,
John
Click to expand...


There is a good possibility you have valve sealing problems even though your valve clearances are in spec. At 1 time I owned 2 TE250's. My sons was an 07 and mine was an 06. Like you my TE250 ( 06 model) struggled to get started cold but would always start easier kicking it over. I checked all the basics and all checked good. My sons 07 TE250 always started & ran excellent. I ran a compression test on both bikes and found the 06 struggled ( took several starter revolutions, to the point I thought the battery might go flat even though it was new)) to reach 60 psi where my sons reached 90 psi very quickly. At first I thought possibly an automatic decompression problem because once started the bike always ran great. But that also checked good. I finally did a leak down test and found mine had excessive leak down. Especially compared to my sons bike.
I pulled the cylinder head off the bike. Turned it upside down and put a little transmission fluid where the valves seal to the head. Within a minute I started to see red tracks coming from the exhaust port and a little from the intake port.
I sent the head out for a valve job and was told the valves were out of round. They had a little bit of a hard time getting the new valves to seal also. I wanted to go back with Delwest valves ( which are o.e.) but they have have a coating so you cannot lap them in. They ended up sacrificing a couple of steel valves to help get the seats the proper shape.
Once the valve job was done and everything back together the bike cranks excellent hot or cold and runs fantastic. Compression is now about what my sons was. My bike was not a high mileage bike ( approximately 900 miles). I did buy it used and it did have a bad ( air leak) rubber mainfold between carburetor and cylinder head which I found and fixed as soon as the bike was bought. I do not know how long the bike was ridden with that air leak and that lean condition possibly caused the valve problems to happen.

Bill45

I would like to add I really never found the specification for what good or normal compression was supposed to be do to the automatic compression release feature. Having another good running bike helped me alot in figuring out what was actually wrong because other than hard starting cold the bike ran excellent and started good once warmed up. I bought the bike with about 700 miles on it and rode it for about 200 miles before fixing the problem. I checked valve clearance when I first got the bike and checked them before tearing into it and they were spot on in clearance.

Also the valve job was done by a well known reputable shop ( AS Racing) and it was his idea to use and sacrifice steel valves to lapp the seats in. He did cut the orginal seats when the new Delwest valves were installed but still could not get a good seal until they were lapped in. Once they were lapped using steel valves he installed the new Delwest valves.
 
bill35 said:
There is a good possibility you have valve sealing problems even though your valve clearances are in spec. At 1 time I owned 2 TE250's. My sons was an 07 and mine was an 06. Like you my TE250 ( 06 model) struggled to get started cold but would always start easier kicking it over. I checked all the basics and all checked good. My sons 07 TE250 always started & ran excellent. I ran a compression test on both bikes and found the 06 struggled ( took several starter revolutions, to the point I thought the battery might go flat even though it was new)) to reach 60 psi where my sons reached 90 psi very quickly. At first I thought possibly an automatic decompression problem because once started the bike always ran great. But that also checked good. I finally did a leak down test and found mine had excessive leak down. Especially compared to my sons bike.
I pulled the cylinder head off the bike. Turned it upside down and put a little transmission fluid where the valves seal to the head. Within a minute I started to see red tracks coming from the exhaust port and a little from the intake port.
I sent the head out for a valve job and was told the valves were out of round. They had a little bit of a hard time getting the new valves to seal also. I wanted to go back with Delwest valves ( which are o.e.) but they have have a coating so you cannot lap them in. They ended up sacrificing a couple of steel valves to help get the seats the proper shape.
Once the valve job was done and everything back together the bike cranks excellent hot or cold and runs fantastic. Compression is now about what my sons was. My bike was not a high mileage bike ( approximately 900 miles). I did buy it used and it did have a bad ( air leak) rubber mainfold between carburetor and cylinder head which I found and fixed as soon as the bike was bought. I do not know how long the bike was ridden with that air leak and that lean condition possibly caused the valve problems to happen.

Bill45
Click to expand...
I truly appreciate you sharing your experiences! Especially since I have a 2006 TE250. :cheers:
 
Thanks Bill - I am suspect that you are right. When I installed the 300cc kit I found the intake manifold shot too - at that point I had about 1600 (90% offroad) miles on it, I bought it new so I know it was maintained, but have no idea how long the manfiold might have leaked. (Over the winter I rebuilt my KTM 525 top end & with the new valves etc... it starts with the slightest touch of the button.) I will look at compression & leak-down on the Husky over the next few weeks. If it looks at all weak I will have the head done.
Thanks for the great reply.
JCF
 
Bill,
I want to give you (and the forum) a big THANK YOU****************************************

I did a leakdown test & found 25% + leakage, I pulled the head and found the intake valve seats were out of round. I sent the head to Dave Hopkins (djhcyclesport) he confirmed the condition and redid the valve seats - he was able to reuse the OEM valves as they were in good condition. (he did a great & quick job!!) After putting it together it starts well & runs great. Now to put some miles on it...

thanks again****************************************************************************************************************************************************************
 
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