• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2007 TE-250

old3 said:
They are pretty bikes. Manu, were the rear plastics a bolt in job or was there more to it? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Well, I bought the plastics second hand, I guess they came from a 2010 TC ( so they didn't fit either my 510, my son's 125, nor my 250 which was the one I bought them for at first place )

After a while, I decided to mill the red parts to fit the 2006, and for the rear panels, I made an aluminium link to hold the front bolts together across, with a large washer to keep them tight with the red scoops ( as you can see, the 2010 plastics are smaller than the stock ones and do not really want to meet ...)
 
It looks like, thanks to all of your help, I got most questions sorted out !

So, the plastic tank behind the engine next tom the rear shock is a radiator overflow.

Mine is empty right now, which would seem a good sign, whereas the radiator up front is full (with what looks like a blue fluid, engine ice?).

The 2006 Husqvarna TE250 shop manual says "rear radiator overflow tank" should be half full.

Thought of taking (twisting) that small black cap off of the rear plastic overflow tank, but after some trying decided it was not worth the risk of cracking something (does it even come off?). Maybe non of this is worth the trouble.
 

Attachments

  • DSC06552.JPG
    DSC06552.JPG
    148 KB · Views: 9
On the other hand that red aluminum canister above is (thanks again) an uptite carburetor vent filter, it seems the bottom just unscrews and then it can be easily cleaned out. So no issue there.
 

Attachments

  • Uptite carb vent filter.jpg
    Uptite carb vent filter.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 9
Regarding the front brake pads which squeak annoyingly, I bought a small bottle of this product called CRC Brake Quiet. It is applied in a thin layer on the BACK of the brake pads and cuts resonant vibrations.

Did any of you successfully take out the front pads (one removes a steel clip and then pulls out a small retaining bolt) and put them back in, or replace, without having the calipers get in the way? Is it an easy job or will I need special tools for this particular brembo brake? I know you are not supposed to touch the brake lever !
 

Attachments

  • CRC disk brake quiet.jpg
    CRC disk brake quiet.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 1
What would be regarded as "normal oil consumption" on such a bike with 3500 miles on it? It seems I have to refill the oil regularly.

I heard 100ml/hour is normal, but mine is at least twice that. Could it depend on the oil type? I refilled with some older 10-40 but just got two new 10-60.

Btw, is there a better /smarter way to check the oil level than taking out every time that bleed bolt on the side??
 
Regarding the radiator overflow tank I did some more reading here and elsewhere, and came to the conclusion that filling it up to between the tow marked lines (which I did not see at first!) with distilled water was the more sensible thing to do. No we don't have snow or ice here, in fact now that I think of it we don't have rain either. :)

The plastic cap twisted right off, and I gave it a cleaning (some dust under it) and it seems the plastic pressure valve inside it is in good shape.
 
Herb said:
Regarding the radiator overflow tank I did some more reading here and elsewhere, and came to the conclusion that filling it up to between the tow marked lines (which I did not see at first!) with distilled water was the more sensible thing to do. No we don't have snow or ice here, in fact now that I think of it we don't have rain either. :)

The plastic cap twisted right off, and I gave it a cleaning (some dust under it) and it seems the plastic pressure valve inside it is in good shape.
Click to expand...

You did right. The small tank needs a little fluid in it
 
Thanks Manu !

Any feedback on the other questions??

Should I go with the recommended 10w-60 oil or a mobil 10w-40 instead? I don't plan on doing any racing, and the 60 looks like a real thick one.
My bike burns some oil (although there are no visible signs, eg smoke) and I keep adding 10w-40 every week.
 
I personaly use the motorex 10w60 with the 250, and the 510 is on castrol 10w50

My dealer recommended the 10w60 with the older engines, cause it is slicker at high temp. So I took his advice and it does not seem to sip oil.
 
I can't fancy another way of checking the oil level except the screw ( which a buddy of mine happened to "screw" on his 450 a few years back ) that is why I don't do it very often. Hva made it right afterwards with the plastic window.
 
Old3...Why tear down a motor at 100 hours? 100 hours is the amount of time you keep oil in your car. I am with DD that these motors are pretty strong and should last a long time without any service. I have close to 6k on mine with stock internals. I have reshimmed the valves once, and nothing else. I still have the stock clutch.

Herb....you have a nice bike there. Check the valves and see if you need an adjustment. That could be the cause of some motor oil loss. I loose most of my oil out of the head vent that I routed to the airbox. You should consider changing the O-rings on the brass inlet to the carb. Mine let loose after 6 years. All you have to do is take out the screw and pull the inlet out. The radiator crossover tube is also vulnerable. Get some good tubing to replace that. Your idle seems really high....it sounds like you need to change the pilot. How many turns out are you on the RD air screw?
 
Herb...pic 6577 that has the small reservoir. Is that for the rear brake? That must be a 2006 thing. These bikes were all made Euro 3 compliant but, most of the bikes that came here did not have all the emissions crap on them. I presume that the wires with the plug went to the motor that recircs the fuel. My 2007 was a Euro 3 and I have removed all the emissions stuff.

After looking at you fuel line it looks like someone replaced it at some time but that thing is routed wrong IMO. You can swivel that brass inlet and remove a few inches of fuel line so it doesn't do a loop like yours.
 
Swampds said:
Manu...where do you have your vent from the head going to?
Click to expand...

well, somewhere in front of the engine I guess. It was like that when I bought the bike from a succession of , say careless owners. Where is it supposed to go originally ?
 
Swampds said:
Old3...Why tear down a motor at 100 hours? 100 hours is the amount of time you keep oil in your car. I am with DD that these motors are pretty strong and should last a long time without any service. I have close to 6k on mine with stock internals. I have reshimmed the valves once, and nothing else. I still have the stock clutch.

Herb....you have a nice bike there. Check the valves and see if you need an adjustment. That could be the cause of some motor oil loss. I loose most of my oil out of the head vent that I routed to the airbox. You should consider changing the O-rings on the brass inlet to the carb. Mine let loose after 6 years. All you have to do is take out the screw and pull the inlet out. The radiator crossover tube is also vulnerable. Get some good tubing to replace that. Your idle seems really high....it sounds like you need to change the pilot. How many turns out are you on the RD air screw?
Click to expand...

Im not as fast as I was when I was racing these in 06/07 but all three of my 06 450s ate the big end of the rod at right around 100 hours, despite regular servicing. My KTMs, on the other hand well..... My 07 sxf450 crank was 150 hours when I swapped it for a 505 build and it was perfect.

There is a KXF250 bearing upgrade for the Husky rods, and it wasnt discovered by accident! Beware at 100 hours in my experience!
 
old3 said:
Im not as fast as I was when I was racing these in 06/07 but all three of my 06 450s ate the big end of the rod at right around 100 hours, despite regular servicing. My KTMs, on the other hand well..... My 07 sxf450 crank was 150 hours when I swapped it for a 505 build and it was perfect.

There is a KXF250 bearing upgrade for the Husky rods, and it wasnt discovered by accident! Beware at 100 hours in my experience!
Click to expand...

I have had the opposite experience, I have a KTM four stroke with a large hole in the main cases from the rod but my huskys continue to keep going. I guess the reality is they all break.
 
From my very limited reading it seems the TE450's had more mechanical problems than the TE250's in the 2006-2007 time period? Not knowing anything about how the engine components were dimensioned in the two cases, it could be that the 450's, delivering more power, put more stress on the rods?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top