• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2008 husky 510smr quit wrking

craigs449

craigs449

Husqvarna
B Class
Bike stopped running on the track today. Took it apart and found no spark. Checked all fuses and wiring and all is gopd. Disconnected the battery to reset everything. Now I have am error code with four flashes of the neutral light. And the fuel pump does not cycle now? Any ideas?
 
Again?? Damn man. Sorry about your bad luck. Hope you get it figured out. Did you check the repair manual for codes? If you dont have one, go to www.husqvarnaoutlet.com and download one. Best 2 minutes you'll eve spend waiting. They also have the parts fiche' to be downloaded to if need be.
 
Thanks for the link. I fooled with it a bit at the track, but I wanted to wait till I got it home to get into it. I washed it up real good yesterday and unplugged the battery terminals, hoping I would have an idea from someone on here or SMJ as to what to look for. So far, I have heard the following possibilities: burned up the stator, bad resistor inthe spark plug lead, or TPS is f-ed up and not giving the right signals to the sparky and fuel pump.
 
TTT. I was really hoping someone on here could point me in the right direction as to where to start. I have sent e-mails to Hall's Cycle and FBF to see if they can give any advice, still waiting to hear back....This SUX!
 
Yeah wierd how peeps dont always respond on this site. Maybe this is a smaller site then we think ;) No spark could be comming from your stupid plug wire that has a built in something that makes it not spark. Alwasy check your grounds and if your offroad your bike you are more prone to getting currosion where it shouldnt be :thumbsup:
 
spleno1;124254 said:
Yeah wierd how peeps dont always respond on this site. Maybe this is a smaller site then we think ;) No spark could be comming from your stupid plug wire that has a built in something that makes it not spark. Alwasy check your grounds and if your offroad your bike you are more prone to getting currosion where it shouldnt be :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Yup....I posted the same on SMJ and TT too though:excuseme: Plug wire is on the short list to check, main grounds are good, although this bike appears to share a flotaing ground to a whole lot of stuff according to the electrical schematic! gotta check ALL the wires! No real offroading with this one...closest it gets is a little dust in the offroad section of Summit Point Sumo track:cheers:
 
Shit man.. Sorry its still not goin. What have you checked so far? Lets bounce some ideas around
 
J.R.;124262 said:
Shit man.. Sorry its still not goin. What have you checked so far? Lets bounce some ideas around
Click to expand...

Checked so far:

The three relays under the tank, all measure 81.5ish ohms
all the fuses look good (5 total)
pulled the fuel pump fromt the tank and hooked up to 12 volts both at the pump iteself, and at the wiring harness...it works like a charm.
swapped the rh switch for a new one at the shop from a TE450, still exhibiting the same issue.
Shop hooked it up to Ibeat. Not showing any old or current error codes.

Is it possible that when I took off all the street legal crap before the trackday, when I cinched the bunches of wires behind the number plate with a ziptie I pulled it too tight and maybe stretched or pulled a shared ground wire from one of the harnesses just enough to cause a minor short in the system (this bike has a lot of shared wiring through the syatem)
 
craigs449,

I had some issues with my 06 SM510R that were similar to what you are describing and long story short it wound up being the combination of stator and rotor on my bike. I spent months looking through wiring/schematics/parts only to take off the stator cover and find my stator loose on the cover and a film of pasty metal filled oil all over my flywheel. Changed the stator and made sure it was mounted solidly to the cover as well as cleaned off the flywheel very well and the bike fired right off without even a hiccup.

I hope your issue is something this simple and if you haven't checked these things then I reccomend that you do.

Joel
 
Thanks for the input. However, I can't imagine that the stator has anything to do with this. Mine won't start due to lack of spark and no electricity going to the fuel pump. I would think that the stator would give a fail code too....Right? Did your bike just quit running, or start to die little by little?
 
My bike just died one day while I was riding it to get an inspection sticker. Sitting in traffic at a red light and the bike just shut off and wouldn't start back up again.

My bike is carbed and not injected like yours so I have no idea about a fail code.

Major symptoms for me were it would crank and crank and crank but not start. No/very weak spark.

Guess my thoughts are that it would only take a few minutes to take off the stator cover and verify that the stator is still firmly attached to the stator cover and that there is no gray sludge film sitting on the inside of your flywheel.

Joel
 
tls25rs;124411 said:
My bike just died one day while I was riding it to get an inspection sticker. Sitting in traffic at a red light and the bike just shut off and wouldn't start back up again.

My bike is carbed and not injected like yours so I have no idea about a fail code.

Major symptoms for me were it would crank and crank and crank but not start. No/very weak spark.

Guess my thoughts are that it would only take a few minutes to take off the stator cover and verify that the stator is still firmly attached to the stator cover and that there is no gray sludge film sitting on the inside of your flywheel.

Joel
Click to expand...

Thanks.....i will be checking that this week:thumbsup:
 
another thing to check if not mentioned, all connections at the coil- especially the 2 bolts that ground to frame.

also- fuses have looked good to many upon inspection- but after triple checking had small cracks or otherwise. swap out with new, or check with Ohm meter. The 2 10amps on the left hand side both go to the circuit that is ailing you- if you swap those 2 into each other's socket it is not a test- it will fail just the same. I only know that caus I started pulling fuses just to see what it did or did not do so I'd identify quicker. The 20 amp is for the dc circuit- lighting.

I am getting this mixxed up with mr sleazy's post: did you check or swap out the "fall sensor" (sm only)

This sounds like a short, open circuit, or possibly the ecu at this point.
 
HUSKYnXJnWI;124525 said:
another thing to check if not mentioned, all connections at the coil- especially the 2 bolts that ground to frame.

also- fuses have looked good to many upon inspection- but after triple checking had small cracks or otherwise. swap out with new, or check with Ohm meter. The 2 10amps on the left hand side both go to the circuit that is ailing you- if you swap those 2 into each other's socket it is not a test- it will fail just the same. I only know that caus I started pulling fuses just to see what it did or did not do so I'd identify quicker. The 20 amp is for the dc circuit- lighting.

I am getting this mixxed up with mr sleazy's post: did you check or swap out the "fall sensor" (sm only)

This sounds like a short, open circuit, or possibly the ecu at this point.
Click to expand...


Re-checked the fuses with a multimeter last night after reading a thread started by hotducati in the efi/carb section. He had the same problem I have. The 15 amp fuse at the rear on the right side had a hairline crack in it only detected by the multimeter. Gonna get some new ones today and see if that resolves my issue. :cheers:...Hopefully
 
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