• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

2008 Te450 Clutch Issues

Husky Freak

Husqvarna
I have read a lot of posts about the ZipTy slave cylinder and the 7602 piston and x-ring fixing the fluid loss issues. That did not fix my problem. After bleeding the system from the slave cylinder up I get very tiny bubbles when pulling the clutch lever in and let it out. I do not see any fluid leaking from the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. I have tried using the 7602 piston and x-ring in the stock slave cylinder and it didn’t do any better.

There is a company that offers Brembo master cylinder, Brembo slave cylinder and new hose. Fully assembled and bled that they claim will fit and should fix the problem.

Has anyone else had the ZipTy/7602 combo not work? Has anyone put Brembo parts in place of the Magura and if so what are your thoughts? Any other ideas on what I might do would be useful as I would like to not spend about $700.00 bones on the Brembo setup unless I get many positive responses saying the Brembo stuff is the ticket.

Happy Riding!
 
Yikes, thanks for the reminder. My slave cylinder was leaking several years ago (5 or more?) the night before I was going out to the desert and I just installed an O-ring out of a generic set I had on the piston. It was supposed to be a temporary repair to see if I could go riding. Well it's still in there.

Sorry that you're not having any luck. Have you tried to do a master cylinder rebuild?
 
I have read a lot of posts about the ZipTy slave cylinder and the 7602 piston and x-ring fixing the fluid loss issues. That did not fix my problem. After bleeding the system from the slave cylinder up I get very tiny bubbles when pulling the clutch lever in and let it out. I do not see any fluid leaking from the slave cylinder or the master cylinder. I have tried using the 7602 piston and x-ring in the stock slave cylinder and it didn’t do any better.

There is a company that offers Brembo master cylinder, Brembo slave cylinder and new hose. Fully assembled and bled that they claim will fit and should fix the problem.

Has anyone else had the ZipTy/7602 combo not work? Has anyone put Brembo parts in place of the Magura and if so what are your thoughts? Any other ideas on what I might do would be useful as I would like to not spend about $700.00 bones on the Brembo setup unless I get many positive responses saying the Brembo stuff is the ticket.

Happy Riding!
Are you losing fluid anywhere?
 
Yikes, thanks for the reminder. My slave cylinder was leaking several years ago (5 or more?) the night before I was going out to the desert and I just installed an O-ring out of a generic set I had on the piston. It was supposed to be a temporary repair to see if I could go riding. Well it's still in there.

Sorry that you're not having any luck. Have you tried to do a master cylinder rebuild?
tntmo, I have not tried to rebuild, everything I read about Magura even on newer bikes is they are prone to problems. I think I’d rather switch to Brembo if possible. I wish I was that lucky that the “x-ring” should have fixed the issue but the ZipTy/7602 combo seemed worse than the x-ring and piston in stock slave.
 
Are you losing fluid anywhere?
268fords, there might be a tiny bit leaking from master but not positive as I’m sure I overfill a little and leak some out when putting the cap on. I do wipe it but don’t know that I get it all. I would think I’d see it leaking more as I have to bleed after 35 miles or so. Clutch seems fine when I get finished with ride but next morning no clutch and fluid below the top of the tube in the master.
 
268fords, there might be a tiny bit leaking from master but not positive as I’m sure I overfill a little and leak some out when putting the cap on. I do wipe it but don’t know that I get it all. I would think I’d see it leaking more as I have to bleed after 35 miles or so. Clutch seems fine when I get finished with ride but next morning no clutch and fluid below the top of the tube in the master.
If you don’t see anything leaking, the only place it could really be leaking would be past the o ring
 
Hi Husky Freak,

I'll review my experience with Magura clutch problems and you take or leave the info as you wish. I'm not an expert just a rider that want's a trouble free clutch on his Italian era Husky.

On my 2005 TE 450 I changed out the slave oring to the double seal one that Uptite George sold. I did this change very early on, all OEM stuff otherwise.
Clutch worked great for many many years. 50% mountain single track (Heavy clutch use) 50% Baja (less heavy clutch use).
Eventually I did start to loose clutch fluid. Nothing showing as an external leak. Upon disassembly the slave showed tell tale signs of chatter marks on the slave cylinder wall leading the the loss of fluid past the double seal oring.
Before undertaking a repair I did a bunch of research and there was lots of examples of folks getting poor results with with some of the aftermarket repair solutions available at the time. I have no first hand experience with these repairs so can't say one way or the other weather they were effective or not but there was several people reporting poor results.
A very knolodgable Husky guy suggested to me that the chatter marks seen on the slave cylinder walls is as a result of the actuator pushrod in the engine shortening from use, allowing slack between the slave piston and the clutch. In his opinion it is this slack that allows the slave piston to wobble a bit in the bore and score the slave cyl wall.
I purchased a replacement pushrod and it was in fact longer than the old one. About 1/16" if I remember correctly!!
New pushrood in place I chose to go with the Oberon replacement (complete) slave cylinder as a repair. The most expensive option at the time.
Fortunatly this repair (Oberon) has been flawless for many years now.
I have documented this repair here at the Cafe before so you may have already seen my thoughts on this.
Please note the successful repair I have described above is to a clutch assemby that showed no external leaks. If external leaks are present it is very likley a slave replacement will not repair your situation.
YRMV!
Good luck sorting out this annoying problem!
Bugs
 
Hi Husky Freak,

I'll review my experience with Magura clutch problems and you take or leave the info as you wish. I'm not an expert just a rider that want's a trouble free clutch on his Italian era Husky.

On my 2005 TE 450 I changed out the slave oring to the double seal one that Uptite George sold. I did this change very early on, all OEM stuff otherwise.
Clutch worked great for many many years. 50% mountain single track (Heavy clutch use) 50% Baja (less heavy clutch use).
Eventually I did start to loose clutch fluid. Nothing showing as an external leak. Upon disassembly the slave showed tell tale signs of chatter marks on the slave cylinder wall leading the the loss of fluid past the double seal oring.
Before undertaking a repair I did a bunch of research and there was lots of examples of folks getting poor results with with some of the aftermarket repair solutions available at the time. I have no first hand experience with these repairs so can't say one way or the other weather they were effective or not but there was several people reporting poor results.
A very knolodgable Husky guy suggested to me that the chatter marks seen on the slave cylinder walls is as a result of the actuator pushrod in the engine shortening from use, allowing slack between the slave piston and the clutch. In his opinion it is this slack that allows the slave piston to wobble a bit in the bore and score the slave cyl wall.
I purchased a replacement pushrod and it was in fact longer than the old one. About 1/16" if I remember correctly!!
New pushrood in place I chose to go with the Oberon replacement (complete) slave cylinder as a repair. The most expensive option at the time.
Fortunatly this repair (Oberon) has been flawless for many years now.
I have documented this repair here at the Cafe before so you may have already seen my thoughts on this.
Please note the successful repair I have described above is to a clutch assemby that showed no external leaks. If external leaks are present it is very likley a slave replacement will not repair your situation.
YRMV!
Good luck sorting out this annoying problem!
Bugs
Oberon is the go to slave solution on Huskies here in the UK. When I did a top end rebuild (prompted by cam bearing failure) on my 09 TE250, I replaced the slave at the same time. The old slave did not leak, but when moved manually, it had a lot of stiction / not a smooth action. The Oberon has improved the clutch feel and (hopefully) won't fail either.
 
My pleasure Husky Freak.....
Only way to keep these old girls running great is to pass on what we have learned to others!
I have benefitted countless times from knoledge shared by members here.
Long live the Cafe!
Bugs
 
Hi Husky Freak,

I'll review my experience with Magura clutch problems and you take or leave the info as you wish. I'm not an expert just a rider that want's a trouble free clutch on his Italian era Husky.

On my 2005 TE 450 I changed out the slave oring to the double seal one that Uptite George sold. I did this change very early on, all OEM stuff otherwise.
Clutch worked great for many many years. 50% mountain single track (Heavy clutch use) 50% Baja (less heavy clutch use).
Eventually I did start to loose clutch fluid. Nothing showing as an external leak. Upon disassembly the slave showed tell tale signs of chatter marks on the slave cylinder wall leading the the loss of fluid past the double seal oring.
Before undertaking a repair I did a bunch of research and there was lots of examples of folks getting poor results with with some of the aftermarket repair solutions available at the time. I have no first hand experience with these repairs so can't say one way or the other weather they were effective or not but there was several people reporting poor results.
A very knolodgable Husky guy suggested to me that the chatter marks seen on the slave cylinder walls is as a result of the actuator pushrod in the engine shortening from use, allowing slack between the slave piston and the clutch. In his opinion it is this slack that allows the slave piston to wobble a bit in the bore and score the slave cyl wall.
I purchased a replacement pushrod and it was in fact longer than the old one. About 1/16" if I remember correctly!!
New pushrood in place I chose to go with the Oberon replacement (complete) slave cylinder as a repair. The most expensive option at the time.
Fortunatly this repair (Oberon) has been flawless for many years now.
I have documented this repair here at the Cafe before so you may have already seen my thoughts on this.
Please note the successful repair I have described above is to a clutch assemby that showed no external leaks. If external leaks are present it is very likley a slave replacement will not repair your situation.
YRMV!
Good luck sorting out this annoying problem!
Bugs

Hey Bugs, I've got an 04 TE450 with the same problems you're describing. I've gone through other threads and tried to fix: bleed system, new friction plates, new slave (oberon), motorex oil filled exactly to 1.4L, extensive checks for leaks. I was hoping I got it this time but sure enough after 10 mins the clutch goes soft and i'm limping home.

The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the pushrod. Does somebody make this or am I at the mercy of ebay?
 
Hey Bugs, I've got an 04 TE450 with the same problems you're describing. I've gone through other threads and tried to fix: bleed system, new friction plates, new slave (oberon), motorex oil filled exactly to 1.4L, extensive checks for leaks. I was hoping I got it this time but sure enough after 10 mins the clutch goes soft and i'm limping home.

The only thing I haven't tried is replacing the pushrod. Does somebody make this or am I at the mercy of ebay?
Were are you located? Maybe you are lucky googling: 8A0099953
 
Found this recently on.a Facebook group solving the same issue;

“I did find the problem
Before I coud not pull the clutch lever all the way against the grip. It just felt like a brake.
I dont know why or how but the rod pushed by the clutch slave cylinder seems to be too short ! Used or something I dont know
So I added 2 washers between the rod and the pin (the thing between the rod and the plate, number 12 in the parts catalog) it added artificially 1mm to the rod and now the clutch works great”
 
That seems like my kind of fix.

For reference, I pulled the clutch rod and it doesn’t appear worn or damaged, so I’m skeptical. On the road for a few days, but I’m going to try this ASAP. Many thanks.
 
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