• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2009 TE510 2000 MI won't start

J

joerock510

Husqvarna
C Class
Hello i own a 09 te510 stock with the factory power up kit i run the pipe open and the o2 sensor out the bike was wonderful until this winter.
riding style is definitely aggressive. but the bike has had meticulous maintenance oil changed every 5-8 hours with filter changed air filter cleaned every 1-2 woods rides 3-4 fresh grease on the seal every time valve consitently.
My symptoms are at a cold start 30oF or below theres no chance of getting running above that she will sputter but wont run her own but if u give her a siff of starter fluid she will start and run for apox 5-10 min then the fan will kick on. untill yesterday when i was goin through wiring pulling my hair out the bike would always restart once warm. had it to a dealer for service in december they tuned it didn't notice any starting issue.
I'm confident i can do the work myself but this is starting to drive me insane i need to ride again its getting warm my sled just hit the ground and my bikes not ready some please help!!!
 
My thoughts in order of my guesses:
What did the Dealer do in December?
Is the TPS set right? Did the dealer change settings to a recipe of CO settings they heard of when your’s was already reportably wonderful?​
Have you checked the valve lash?
Is there a good spark- is your spark plug fouled now
Check the coil connections
Fan came on after warmed up- so maybe the Coolant sensor is ok… Otherwise would be suspect. Easy to tell with Ibeat.
All in all, I’d check the spark plug and coil connections and valve lash- then I’d take it back to that dealer to get checked out on Ibeat.

These bikes are not Hot or cold blooded if adjusted right: my 09TE450 started right up after sitting for a few months while it was 10'F at the time.
 
Valves 9 times outta ten if all else checks out. My 525 was put away last Oct for winter. Took it out last weekend to start the preps for this year. I could not get the bike to start with a new battery. Pulled it apart and got to the valves last night and they were real tight on the intakes and close to spec on the exhausts. My point is, the bike ran fine when I put her down for the winter, or so I thought. As the valves bed in, then the adjustments start to move, it doesn't take much. Not sure about the 510, but in my SM610, the spec is only .002, doesn't take much to go from spec to tight.

If the other usual suspects checks out, then I would check the valves next if all else checks out. If nothing else you will take that off the list of possibles if they are in spec.
 
valves were done at the dealer and my myself regularly just pulled the tank to check the fuel pump so i check the valves today but the problem lies in electrical i believe the coil connections all look good im not a noob to motorcycle maintenance but kim deff starting to pull my hair out
 
Pull the plug and check for spark, that will rule out alot of the electrical possibilities. Since I just had a similar issue and my intakes were tight, I was leaning that way. These are the only kind of things I don't like about EFI in off road bikes, more places that small things can stop you dead form all of the moving and chaffing stuff does on off road bikes. Not that it can't happen to a carb'd bike, but not as easy or as many places! If you don't have spark, check simple thing like kill switch and it's connections. They can and do fail also.

I had my starter hot wire from the button get chaffed between my bark buster and the bar and it shorted out. I chased that for days, something so simple..........Good luck and don't get too frustrated, take breaks and make sure you have beers!
 
ohh this ,bike has numerous 12 packs into between 3 ppl who ride thumpers daily lol i'm a lil concerned about my computer as my battery terminals loosend while out riding about 5 -6 months ago but it did run good after that idk
 
joerock510 said:
???????? anyone?
Click to expand...

If you have exhausted everything else (fuel, compression, valve clearences, coil connections, spark, battery, vacume leak>?) then you are left with hooking up to Ibeat. Coil connections can "look good" and be far from good. The plug cap can fail and look good. If suspect- I test with an ohm meter and completely remove, clean, and reinstal.

To me if it runs for 5-10 minutes (after using starting fluid- which I would personally not use, not critecizing but I wouldn't use it on an efi bike)... and starts when warm- it tells me that you are either on the lean side of settings, TPS is off (creating that problem), or your bike doesn't know its cold. If you hook the bike up to Ibeat and the person looking at the screen knows what they are doing- all those questions will be eliminated or confirmed.

Aside from that... try starting the bike with the connector to your Coolant temp sensor disconnected- if it starts up normal- the sensor should be replaced $10- if it starts up only slightly better- check with Ibeat.

Also just thought about vacume leakes...( seeing as you are spraying starter fluid in someswhere). Check that vacume nipple on the left side of your throttle boddy is capped well- (I used the right sized bolt)- airbox and throttle boddy boots have no leakes?

having a bad day here sorry if my "style' is more abrupt than normal.
thinking.gif
 
Does the fast idle make any difference when the bike is running? And what idle speed do you have when the bike is warm?

It sounds more like the engine temperature sensor to me but it could be an air bypass problem. I have the temp sensors give the wrong reading but not actually fail completely. You can only see this with Ibeat.

Dave
 
Unfortunately with a computer controlling your fuel aspect, you just might have to take some of the already suggested advice here and bring it in for an ibeat check. But before that I would remove all the plastic and tank ect. Go through the entire bike end to end looking for any abnormalities in every inch of the wiring and vacuum lines. I've heard of a lot of fixes to problems coming from doing that.
 
i believe i have it pinpointed finally if any one is having cold start issues on an 09/10 te model replace your factory temp sensor as its tell your computer to spray fuel on the lean side it maps the computer as if the bike was hot!!! y my fan was running all the time
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top