2009 TE610 engine problem. 9000 miles.

[exacto]

Got a big problem. So for the past 2 weeks or so, occasionally when I start the bike it would idle fine, but when you start to accelerate it would just bog down and decelerate. If I tried to accelerate again it would ride fine until a certain RPM then decelerate like before and eventually completely die out. I pulled over and restarted the bike and then it would be riding fine. Sometime I would have to turn off and on the bike three times to get it functioning normal. Was thinking it was the ECU or injectors then.

Come last weekend, I just got off a freeway stretch and was on city street going about 20mph when it starts to do the same deal as before. I pull over and restart it and its still doing the deceleration and now it backfiring insanely loud upon acceleration and eventual stalls all together. I pull over again and now its idling for 2-10 second before killing itself. I leave the bike to go to work and come back and says the battery is dead.

What do you guys think is wrong? It couldn't be the battery causing this, could it? I recently serviced it 20 miles ago ( valves, oil, coolant, air cleaner) after it was doing the initial deceleration problems so I know its not any of that. Maybe time for a new timing chain?

 

[EricV]

Hey man- sorry to hear it . I haven't much time to respond but wanted to chime in to say my 630 did that once, and it was a frayed wiring harness near where it connects to the voltage regulator (had rubbed through where it was contacting the battery tray.) Huskies are known for fairly poor routing of wires/fraying, so may want to do a look over.

 

[rancher1]

A bad battery can certainly cause running issues as well.

 

[exacto]

A bad battery can certainly cause running issues as well.

Really? I thought once the bike is running, the battery is really not a factor? or does that only apply to older carbed bikes?

Hey man- sorry to hear it . I haven't much time to respond but wanted to chime in to say my 630 did that once, and it was a frayed wiring harness near where it connects to the voltage regulator (had rubbed through where it was contacting the battery tray.) Huskies are known for fairly poor routing of wires/fraying, so may want to do a look over.

Will replace battery, and check all cables prior before tearing down, thanks for the consideration.

 

[XYooper906]

Does your bike still have the O2 sensor installed? My 2008 TE610 was running poorly when I bought it used. It was rideable but running lean & hesitating. I took it for a short ride one day, and while coming back it started backfiring and hesitating severely and stalling. Your symptoms sound identical.

The original owner had an 02 sensor eliminator "powerup" kit that had never been installed. I installed the kit, and instantly the bike was running much better. (The O2 sensor was definitely bad.)

Sometime later, I got setup to run the iBeat software, I adjusted the TPS, which was way out of adjustment. After gutting the the catalytic converter, increasing the exhaust outlet size, and repacking the exhaust can, the bike finally ran the way it should.

 

[exacto]

Does your bike still have the O2 sensor installed? My 2008 TE610 was running poorly when I bought it used. It was rideable but running lean & hesitating. I took it for a short ride one day, and while coming back it started backfiring and hesitating severely and stalling. Your symptoms sound identical.

The original owner had an 02 sensor eliminator "powerup" kit that had never been installed. I installed the kit, and instantly the bike was running much better. (The O2 sensor was definitely bad.)

Sometime later, I got setup to run the iBeat software, I adjusted the TPS, which was way out of adjustment. After gutting the the catalytic converter, increasing the exhaust outlet size, and repacking the exhaust can, the bike finally ran the way it should.

No all that was taken out and new aftermarket Uptite exhaust added.

 

[exacto]

Changed battery and bike is still back firing and popping/ dying out and very hard to start....

Will try new spark plug and check timing chain tensioner. Any other ideas?

 

[XYooper906]

Have you checked & cleaned all of the electrical connectors for all of the sensors, including the ECU? Can you hear the fuel pump run when you key-on the bike?

Possible restriction of fuel supply to the throttle body/injector? Restrictions to the fuel pump or debris in the tank?

As far as the cam chain tensioner is concerned, if it was/is loose enough to jump timing, you've got bigger problems. If there was just a bit of excessive play in your chain, it should still start, it'd just be noisy IMO.

 

[rancher1]

Fuel pump

 

[exacto]

Fuel pump

How to go about testing that? I hear the fuel pump noise turn on when i turn the key on.

 

[Caboose]

I suspect its related to the charging system. The alternator or the voltage regulator or the wires between them. These EFI bikes need a minimum voltage to run porperly. Check if its charging enough, just simply measure the voltage while the engine is revving at 3-4000 rpm (if it starts and runs ). And/or check the resistance between the stator coils as per the manual. These are very simple if you have a multimeter and hopefully you can find the cause or rule these parts out at least.

 

[Rotax_655]

I suspect its related to the charging system. The alternator or the voltage regulator or the wires between them. These EFI bikes need a minimum voltage to run porperly. Check if its charging enough, just simply measure the voltage while the engine is revving at 3-4000 rpm (if it starts and runs ). And/or check the resistance between the stator coils as per the manual. These are very simple if you have a multimeter and hopefully you can find the cause or rule these parts out at least.

exact
and 'the same as my thoughts
control the voltage regulator such as the manual says

 

[exacto]

Have you checked & cleaned all of the electrical connectors for all of the sensors, including the ECU? Can you hear the fuel pump run when you key-on the bike?

Possible restriction of fuel supply to the throttle body/injector? Restrictions to the fuel pump or debris in the tank?

As far as the cam chain tensioner is concerned, if it was/is loose enough to jump timing, you've got bigger problems. If there was just a bit of excessive play in your chain, it should still start, it'd just be noisy IMO.

Checked all connectors and wires, all good and no damage/corrosion. Fuel pump noise is heard when key is turned on.

Cleaned the tank. Gonna check the fuel injectors later in the week since the problem persists.

I suspect its related to the charging system. The alternator or the voltage regulator or the wires between them. These EFI bikes need a minimum voltage to run porperly. Check if its charging enough, just simply measure the voltage while the engine is revving at 3-4000 rpm (if it starts and runs ). And/or check the resistance between the stator coils as per the manual. These are very simple if you have a multimeter and hopefully you can find the cause or rule these parts out at least.

exact
and 'the same as my thoughts
control the voltage regulator such as the manual says

Performed all the checks in the manual for the charging system and everything was fine and within limit. Will clean fuel injectors, replace spark plug, and put new fresh high octane in and see what happens....

 

[XYooper906]

Have you checked your crank position sensor (CPS, or ignition pick-up)? I think most failures cause a no-start condition, but sometimes they'll fail when they get hot. Maybe yours is failing but not completely dead?

It's the smaller of the two connectors that come out of the left engine cover. They connect up along the left side of the main frame tube on the left side.

The manual calls for 100 ohms (+/- 20%) resistance at 20°C/68°F.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I'd echo the coil, power, and grounds. check the sparkplug cap and 2ndary wire too.

 

[DYNOBOB]

Your symptoms sound very much like my buddy's 630 when the in-tank fuel line had swollen up and gotten a pin hole leak. Even though pump was fine there was insufficient fuel pressure to the rail. I know the 610 pump setup is different and not sure if there is a fuel line in the tank.

Could also be the engine temp sensor going bad and causing the bike to run very lean. This is pretty common on the FI bikes and causes hard start/backfiring.

Good luck!

.

 

[exacto]

Your symptoms sound very much like my buddy's 630 when the in-tank fuel line had swollen up and gotten a pin hole leak. Even though pump was fine there was insufficient fuel pressure to the rail. I know the 610 pump setup is different and not sure if there is a fuel line in the tank.

Could also be the engine temp sensor going bad and causing the bike to run very lean. This is pretty common on the FI bikes and causes hard start/backfiring.

Good luck!

.

Checked the in-tank fuel lines and all is normal.

I replaced spark plug, air filter, cleaned fuel tank, cleaned throttle body and Fuel injectors, replaced oil, checked charging system, check CCT, cleaned all connectors and fuses, put fresh 91 octane and I got her starting up and running well. So one or more of the things above worked...