• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TE 510 Overheating!

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OK just foun this picture. My impeller certainly does not look like this:

Husky High Flow Impeller
swirl_me_baby.jpg
 
columbia510;111608 said:
I capped the driving light, and high beam, spliced in the Uptite led light. All lights work. Hmmm.

The items sharpie mentioned all run in a parallel circuit so you can unplug 1 and the rest stay powered- the fuse however is in series circuit so if you unplug that its like turning a switch off. If the fan was not working and the lights were- you'd have to then deduce that the fuse is good which is why I believe sharpie pointed that out.

I have looked at this circuit a bit and if the fuse is good and the fan didn't run the other things that effect whether the fan comes on is the wiring to the fan, the fan relay, and the coolant temp sensor also the ECU. The coolant temp sensor connects to the ECU and tells it the temp then the ecu triggers the power to the relay which then triggers the power to the fan which comes from that circuit controlled by the fuse which is controlled by the the ecu to run only when the bike is running.

If the fan is on when the bike is not "hot" then I'd look at the coolant temp sensor in and of itself.

I wonder also on Dan's bike if the coolant return hose was doing its job- "overflow level increasing and decreasing" if not the radiator cap could be bad or the return hose could be pinched.

Need to get your hoses replaced so you can start diagnosing the problem- I assume that's part of the hold up. I still think if the PCV and AT are doing the right things that the Coolant temp sensor is to blame. or vice versa... or Maybe a few things going on at one time? These bikes don't like to run way outside normal operating temps- but none do.
 
Did some tests on the Water Temperature Sensor:
Mine is working correctly and I have no issues.
I found that with the bike "cold":
The Resistance between the two prongs of the temp sensor was .690 K Ohms
The Temp indicated by Ibeat was 28'C or 82.4F
Which is what the temperature was outside today​

I then started the bike and recorded the Resistance when the fan came on.
The Resistance between the two prongs was now .162 K Ohms
The Temperature on Ibeat indicated 207.5'F or 97.5'C​

What this tells you is if you do not have an Ibeat- you can check the Resistance on an Ohm Meter or MultiMeter and see if yours has similar values. I had to go back and forth and there is some delay in doing this so the amounts might be off very slightly.

Hope this can be found helpful for someone,
B
 
Nice,

Thanks for the info, will certainly test the temp sensor resistance once I get it up and running.

dan
 
danbartol;111808 said:
Where did this thread get moved to?

No where. As far as I know, no threads have not been touched.

You have put several pieces of information up that are quite similar in multiple threads you have started, the over heating issue is mentioned in some detail in these 3 threads you started:
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?p=111569#post111569
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?p=111569#post111569
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12773
You also asked about the hi-flow impeller here:
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12229

In addition I suspect you may have put up the same pictures & issues about the same thing on ADVrider, thumpertalk, and possibly other forums.

Sort of magnifies your problem a bit, and makes things hard to keep track of.



I keep asking myself what the casual person may think of Husqvarna bikes if they find the same overheating (or any other issue) posted many times on the internet, but they don't notice it was only 1 person with an issue that had posted many times. I do realize that other people have had overheating issues but overall, I've not seem overheating to be a general issue, especially compared to other brands.
 
Get the High flow impeller, it helps.
also look into Samco radiator hoses, they make a hose kit for our bikes that completely eliminates the weak link in the connector hose.
the uptite Y looks nice too, but honestly this is a better option as it eliminates the fitting giving less places for a leak to occur.

d31f_12.jpg
 
danbartol;111624 said:
Done!

I looked at the impeller the other day and it looks fine. Even cycled the kick starter a few times to make sure it was spinning w/ the engine.

All was fine.

Thanks for the suggestion.

PS how do you know if you have the High Flow pump or not. I thought the 2010 models all came with it stock, but am not sure.

The actual impeller looks pretty weak from a hydrodynamic point of view. The Impeller blades are square and flat, not like the nicely curved ones of my KTM 950.


KTM impeller:
IMG_0816.JPG


vs.


The Husky POS on the left:
shoppics089.jpg
It looks like the tips of your KTM impeller blades are rubbing the housing. Either that or someone took a grinding wheel to them? :excuseme:
 
No the first picture is the impeller of a KTM 950 and that's the way it is. The second set is an example of a Husky stock impeller.
 
No worries Coffee, just trying to get as many answer's/opinions as possible to solve the problem.


I find that asking a specific question in one thread gives you more detailed answers and keeps people on track.

I have in fact received different and valuable information from each one of those forums.

I do however understand your point of view.

You can consolidate everything into one thread if you'd like.

Thanks, Dan
 
MXRider;111862 said:
Get the High flow impeller, it helps.
also look into Samco radiator hoses, they make a hose kit for our bikes that completely eliminates the weak link in the connector hose.
the uptite Y looks nice too, but honestly this is a better option as it eliminates the fitting giving less places for a leak to occur.

d31f_12.jpg

Samco Hoses Ordered!
 
danbartol;111903 said:
No worries Coffee, just trying to get as many answer's/opinions as possible to solve the problem.


I find that asking a specific question in one thread gives you more detailed answers and keeps people on track.

I have in fact received different and valuable information from each one of those forums.

I do however understand your point of view.

You can consolidate everything into one thread if you'd like.

Thanks, Dan

There is no "correct" way to handle the information flow.
  1. We could collapse all the forums and have it be like TT were there is not ambiguity where to put things (one Husqvarna forum).
  2. We could collapse the entire cafehusky forum into 1 thread like advrider (it seems that way at least).
  3. Or we could have separate areas like we have now.

It would have fantastic, courteous, and gracious of you when you started secondary threads about the same issue if you posted a link to the original so we could see who was answering what. And of course cross linking all the threads would have been even more ideal.

But people don't tend to cross link threads.... which makes problems appear much larger than it really is, especially when the exact same issue is put up on multiple forums (CH, TT, ADV). But... what is even a more important issue is that people forget "where they posted what", as you noticed earlier today. That is one of reasons we added a new member to the moderator staff. When one thread received more answers than another thread then the threads should have either been locked with link to the active thread, or merged.

The problem with merging threads is it causes a bit of confusion - I just received a message a mod merged 2 of your threads, but I've no idea what exactly happened because they are now merged.

The problem with locking threads with a link to another thread is that it seems a bit unfriendly.

Like I said, there really is no "correct" way of handling the information flow, but I do hope the staff here can help with a unified plan to help everyone with these types of issues - once we have our act a bit more together. We have been lacking, and not uniform in the past, and I do apologize for that.
 
MXRider;111862 said:
Get the High flow impeller, it helps.
also look into Samco radiator hoses, they make a hose kit for our bikes that completely eliminates the weak link in the connector hose.
the uptite Y looks nice too, but honestly this is a better option as it eliminates the fitting giving less places for a leak to occur.

d31f_12.jpg
[/QUOT

All you have here is a rubber T, Purpose for the Y is to split the flow giving equal flow to both Rad's. The T does not drop the temp but the Y does. What's the weak link clamp not tightened properly?
Later George
 
Pushing more water thru the system doesn't mean it's going to run cooler. It's how much air is pushed thru the Rad's.
On Hi Perf Offroad race engines have to restrict the flow into the block because it actually flows to fast and can not heat exchange properly.

Bikes only over heat when speeds are slow and not enough air flow thru Rad's.

Unvented skid plates, plastic,alum add to the overheating of motors also. 35-40% of the heat is transfered thru the oil and off the cases, motor needs air flow also.

Later George
 
Up-tite;111935 said:
All you have here is a rubber T, Purpose for the Y is to split the flow giving equal flow to both Rad's. The T does not drop the temp but the Y does. What's the weak link clamp not tightened properly?
Later George

there are a lot of bikes running these hoses with good results.
also the new water pump does help a lot on these motors. :thumbsup:
 
Hi George,

Thanks for the input. Any ideas as to what the underlying issue might be.

I'm running your skid plate by the way.

In reference to water flow there is a point of diminishing return on the water flow, buy I think the husky could use a bit more. The stock impeller design looks a bit weak.
 
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