2010 TE250 RaceTech Suspension Options

[Budweiserfrogie]

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[Drew Smith]

no need to use the Gold valve compresion pistons, the std. KYB piston assy. is first rate. an experienced tuner should have no problem delivering the desired results working with the valving on the std. units and makeing changes to the rebound/ midstroke valve inside the cartrage. other than that just make sure you are comfortable with the tuner you croose and be sure you can communicate on refinement of your settings.

 

[Motosportz]

no need to use the Gold valve compresion pistons, the std. KYB piston assy. is first rate. an experienced tuner should have no problem delivering the desired results working with the valving on the std. units and makeing changes to the rebound/ midstroke valve inside the cartrage. other than that just make sure you are comfortable with the tuner you croose and be sure you can communicate on refinement of your settings.

Totally agree.

BTW it will handle better lowered but you will loose some absorption ability at the extremes.

 

[Motosportz]

Can you say that in silly persons plain english?

As you are going stiffer and will have less travel you will need to give up some plushness. It is possible to make it real progressive and have plush and bottoming resistance but you have less travel to do it over so it will ramp up quick. I liked the lowered bike i rode, handled amazing but blew through the travel and I found the bottom a lot. Not my bike and not valved for me though. I was faster and heavier than the pilot it was valved and sprung for.

 

[CARL REHATCHEK]

Frogie.. If you were Stateside in the USA... Drew and Works Enduro Rider and gang are top shelf and have been working with Husky suspensions and lowering bikes for a real long time.. well maybe only 30+ years...

Chow, Carl


Chow, Carl

 

[Zim]

Try and find a suspendion bloke with a test track,unless you cluey with the clickers your first ride after the work will be taken up with playing with settings,my bloke in OZ dialed mine in watching me ride his wooped out test track in 15 minutes,right down to pushing the forks through 1 line,that stopped it climbing out of ruts in corners,thats Terry Hays in Sydney,local Race Tech rep.That 1 line on the forks = 3mm,just goes to show how fussy modern suspendion reacts,even for fat old blokes.He lowered mine 25mm both ends as well,its really nice now

 

[meslowmelive]

Been there and done that on different bikes , don't get the front lowered internally i had it done on a bike wasn't happy at all . I got it lowered 45-50mm front and rear and no good , i then changed it back differently .

Do as you say your going to do 25mm is plenty , i then shaved my seat 30mm , after lowering the bike 25mm if you need more take it out of the seat , after taking 30 mm out of my husky foam it still is very comfortable ,because the foam is firm , soft foam is uncomfortable .
so you have that option after lowering.


Raise the forks up through the triples 25mm that way you can keep your internals working the same , get the gold valves , nothing they do internally will be as good as gold valves ,KYB forks like the gold valves , they will charge you to change your valving as if you were buying gold valves or close to it , so just pay for the best , they have to make money some where , so pay for the gold valves not there shims and time to frig with them .

The rear get it lowered 25mm internally and re-valved at the same time .Or get a lowering link at least you can keep the lowering link for the next bike if needed. You still will need to get it re-valved so you may as well get it lowered at the same time ,these bikes are so tall I'm sure if you on-sold the bike they wouldn't complain it was 25mm lower .

As always get the correct springs to suit your weight and your old springs back when you pick the bike up . You may want to exchange the springs latter before selling the bike .At least you have the 2 different options of spring weight if your selling it to the purchaser .

They won't charge you for installing the new springs as there pulling the shocks . forks apart anyway , so you may as well get the springs changed , and your old springs back when you pick the bike up .

The difference will be most awesome , find a rough stretch of rutted road , i can accelerate my bike and overtake while my mate can only ride the speed his suspension will soak up the hits , he got his suspension sorted after riding my bike and comparing the difference .

 

[meslowmelive]

Great thanks.
You really know how to confuse a guy.
Just what I wanted.
Conflicting opinions.

Information is your friend , the difference is i have used all the things I'm talking about and still ride the bike ,i also did different things without success and then reset it correctly , i wish i talked to someone first that had done it , i guarantee you will be absolutely happy with it if you go that way

I wish i had the KYB front forks , a mate i know does suspension , his ex girlfriend rides for Australia , Alison Parker ,and she does enduro riding the same type your after those sqaure faced edges and tree roots , rocks etc , you want the forks to soak up those small hits, and the first thing he does is put the gold valves in the forks .Those KYB forks are pretty good though . You may find the bike will bottom out under the gaurd on big jumps if your to heavy for the springs or the valving is to soft .

I just know that the suspension dude will charge $$$$ to revalve the forks so why not get gold valves instead there better , anyone gonna say that there revalving is better than gold valves . ??

I had gold valves in my Ktm's , best money and suspension I've had .

The worst thing i have ever done is lower forks internally .


my suspension tuner couldn't put gold valves in my mazz forks as he didn't know the settings for them or the tuning parameters , but did know the settings for revalving them 50mm forks so i had no choice .

My suspension tuner is also a Racetech agent .

 

[Zim]

I am 5 10 and had mine lowered 25mm both ends,that with the Recluse and a trials rear tyre and my 05 TE 250 does what I need in tough single track,a handy test is to get a couple of bits of timber 25mm thick and put them on the ground beside the bike and stand on them,nothing like actualy feeling what it does,

 

[Zim]

If its setup right you should be fine with jumps,BTW I dont do doubles,just water bars,
2 ft high mounds to stop erosion on tracks

 

[rabskyline]

why would you lower a bike at 5 foot 10 ?? i am 5'7" and only chopped seat to save suspension issues..

 

[Zim]

I was having lots of stupid cough and stall falls in very technical terrain,I also have a Guts high foam seat,add both together and down I would go,lower the bike 25mm and I can now prop off a foot,and with the Recluse its brilliant,none of this is compulsory,it worked for me and now the bike is a keeper and suits my 52 year old not so fit body

 

[tadgh]

Any more opinions?
I could do with loads of advice.
I've never used anything but stock suspension and springs before this,
but when i recently rode a mates bike which was resprung for about my weight i realised what i was missing.
I gotta learn a bit about this before i spend any hard earned cash.

before you do anything have a chat with endurotech in the uk (dr shox) chris hockey. just google the name and you'll find him. he is pretty much on the money with huskys. he did my te250 which was very harsh by revalving the forks and giving me some good set up tips.

i have a feeling that this bike needs not much except fine tuning

i would say dont lower it, shave the seat if you must but ride it as stock . after a while you'll be the better rider for it. plus if you do the enduro championship this year you'll prefer the ground clearance. you should see the bottom of my bike after last year, thank god for bash plates