• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2010 TE250 Valve Clearance Check/Adjustment Tip

vintageveloce

vintageveloce

Husqvarna
AA Class
Just checked my valves (first time) at 12 hours and 323 miles. They were right on, no adjustment needed.
But! The valve cover vent hose has "crimp on" style clamps. I'm not sure it's even possible to put these back on. So I needed to make a hardware run for 2 replacement hose clamps. They measure about 18mm or 3/4" diameter. You might check you clamps before starting a valve adjustment and buy the replacements ahead of time if you need them.
Carl
 
I use a screwdriver and multigrips to get it back on, takes a few tries to work it out. poor design though, funny how the shims are so easy to change yet the clamps are so difficult. I like the zip ty idea as well. joker
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craftsman dikes. opens and closes them locking spring-clamps in a jiff and dont bend em up like a screwdriver does. done it like that on many of them clamps.
 
joker said:
I use a screwdriver and multigrips to get it back on, takes a few tries to work it out. poor design though, funny how the shims are so easy to change yet the clamps are so difficult. I like the zip ty idea as well. joker
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Click to expand...

Shims are under bucket on 2010 and newer 250's. Not near as easy as the older style. Have to remove camshaft to adjust if out of tolerance. Shop manual is wrong for cam bolts on exhaust also.
 
what are the tolerances for the valves? i see that they are supposed to be .15 (I) and .20 (E), but I do not see a tolerance.
 
Shims come in 0.05 increments , so you can work it out from there . I would stay slightly "loser" than "tighter" as they will tighten with time .

Some people talk of filing shims etc... I think thats a bit OTT !
 
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