• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc 2010 WR300 - White Oil

Yeah, I found it's left hand threads and . My local guys didn't have the parts in stock, time to call Hall's and see about getting it shipped to arrive by Friday...I really, really want to race on Sunday.
 
I believe you might need a tool they refer to as a bullet to put the new seal on. They have them in rockymountainmc.com and other places. I know it might be hard to get the seal on without cutting it without the tool.
 
The impeller threads onto the end of the shaft- it is a REVERSE , (Or Left handed ) Thread if i remember correctly. as far as the seal goes, I know i destroyed it getting it out! might have tapped it out from backside through the hole with something? Would probably be $$ well spent to go pick up a small bearing/bushing puller.
Good Luck!
 
Be careful removing the impeller. i broke mine trying to replace my seal. Now that I know how to do it, it's not that hard of a job.
 
Just joined the white oil club. Pulled the water pump apart and took out the spacer with a magnet. It looked not so good. The corrosion is on the coolant side of the seal. Anybody else replace their spacer at the same time as the seal?
I can get the seal but the spacer is back ordered, which means it won't get to Bill's until the KTM/Husqvarna deal is finished.
coolant spacer.png
 
I thought about that. I definitely won't be putting it back in like this!

Maybe spin it on a dremel tool against some fine sandpaper. What have I got to lose? Its a $4.50 part.

Going to Moab Memorial Day weekend... with the mountain bike. I'll be making braaaap! noises going over bumps and around corners.
 
Mine was chewed up to. Sorry about that, Bill's had a used one until I got them to sell it to me and 2 day it to KC, shipping charges were a kick in the balls, but better than throwing away season points in another series. Missed 3 weekends of racing because of this, so was doing anything I could to get it back together for this weekend. Of course then my impeller still didn't arrive from **** (ordered weeks ago, held up from the back ordered spacer) and I came down with some nasty viral crap and was in bed all weekend. So, I burnt $30 shipping that $4 spacer.

If you know anyone with a metal lathe, they should be able to make a new one from scrap for next to nothing.
 
If one of you guys wants to send a bad one to me I can make a few of them. I got no problem sending you one after I make it. As long as it isn't so bad I cant get good dimensions off of it. I use a lot of stainless steel at work so I could easily use stainless. I don't know if mine is bad or not but I would like to make one for me before I take it out so I am not down and out also. Tell me more about the spacer. Other than the seal does it rub on anything? What dimensions are critical? Just need to know so I can tell if the stainless we have will be strong enough.
 
If one of you guys wants to send a bad one to me I can make a few of them. I got no problem sending you one after I make it. As long as it isn't so bad I cant get good dimensions off of it. I use a lot of stainless steel at work so I could easily use stainless. I don't know if mine is bad or not but I would like to make one for me before I take it out so I am not down and out also. Tell me more about the spacer. Other than the seal does it rub on anything? What dimensions are critical? Just need to know so I can tell if the stainless we have will be strong enough.
Have you made any stainless steel wheel spacers for your WR250? If so I'd like to buy a set from you as well as the water pump part if you end up making some of those. I like my WR250 so much I plan on keeping my it for a long time.
 
I have not made them for my Husky, but I made some for my YZ250. I made them out of the stainless and it still wore out but not that fast. The stainless we have is not any tougher or harder than cold rold steel. So I made some out of D2 tool steel and hardened them. They lasted forever. What I would do is take the stock ones (if you have a old set) and put a hardened (tool steel) sleeve over them where the seal rides. That is just a little less work. If you look at some of the aftermarket companies they are doing this. Like I said if someone wants to send me a set and a water pump spacer I will gladly make them a set for free, because then I don't have to take mine out to measure them. Just let me know. Later Jeff
 
I have not made them for my Husky, but I made some for my YZ250. I made them out of the stainless and it still wore out but not that fast. The stainless we have is not any tougher or harder than cold rold steel. So I made some out of D2 tool steel and hardened them. They lasted forever. What I would do is take the stock ones (if you have a old set) and put a hardened (tool steel) sleeve over them where the seal rides. That is just a little less work. If you look at some of the aftermarket companies they are doing this. Like I said if someone wants to send me a set and a water pump spacer I will gladly make them a set for free, because then I don't have to take mine out to measure them. Just let me know. Later Jeff
I remember putting micro sleeves on old cast harmonic balancers to save them. I wonder if anyone makes a micro-sleeve in the same diameter of the wheel spacer.
 
I can send mine to you. Its not worn on the oil side, just the coolant side. Chamfer on each edge looks to be the same.

The spacer is between the impeller and the end stop o-ring on the drive shaft. It forms the seal on the outside of the circumference of the spacer with the rubber seal, and another seal inside the spacer at the end, against the o-ring.
 
Glenn Haynes, I wanted to send you a private message but dont see a link for it. If you know how send me a private message, and I will give you my address.
 
Just joined the white oil club. Pulled the water pump apart and took out the spacer with a magnet. It looked not so good. The corrosion is on the coolant side of the seal. Anybody else replace their spacer at the same time as the seal?
I can get the seal but the spacer is back ordered, which means it won't get to Bill's until the KTM/Husqvarna deal is finished.
View attachment 26652
im in the same boat!!! Bills tells me the same !!! someones makin em im buying ****************************************
 
im in the same boat!!! Bills tells me the same !!! someones makin em im buying

Does your spacer look like mine? Only bad on the coolant side?

I also had some brown/tan sticky goopy crap under the impeller and on the seal. Maybe that was the reason it failed in the first place. Probably sediment or precipitate from the crap that was in the coolant system when new.
 
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