• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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2011 te 449 not charging battery

mull

mull

Husqvarna
A Class
Hello everyone,mull from england here and I hope you can help with this problem.
I've been working with the husky workshop Manuel on this and at first it tells me to do a resistance check on the generator(stator),which I did and was fine,next it says check current at battery with engine running and should be 13.5-14 volts but all I'm getting is 12.5 volts so it says change voltage regulator which I did along with a new battery,but I'm still only getting 12.5 volts.I've also read that if this dc system has a wire off to ignition the high load wiring can (burn out),could this be the case ?
Any advice please?

Mull
 
On most bikes the battery doesn't start charging until the motor revving to approximately 3k rpm's or higher.
 
Ok,thanks for that lads,others i have spoke to seem to think it's the generator so i'm going to pop it into dealers and they can plug it into laptop and confirm.
Anyone know of anywhere selling husky generators??
Before i do the above,if i disconnect the three yellow wires should i be getting an ac reading on the three pins at generator side with bike running??
 
OK,this is turning into a right ball-ache,took it to husky dealer (who used to be Kawasaki for years)and they plugged it into computer which told them generator OK,wiring OK,so it was a regulated power problem and to change the voltage regulator(again),which I have done and guess what?..it's still got the problem and nobody at husky can give me proper answers...so can one of you fellow te449 owners tell me what voltage our bike should be putting into battery at idle,all others including my BMW seem to giving 14 or so volts.I've also had bike running in complete darkness and can't see any obvious shorting.
 
I'm surprised they "plugged into a computer" to test the generator. Find the 3 yellow wires off the LH engine case. Set your Meter to Ohms and check for resistance between a yellow wire to ground(i.e. engine case or frame bolt) if you have resistance, the stator (generator) is bad. Make sure you Do have resistance between yellow wire to yellow wire X3. Next verify no pins are pushed back in a connector (see this a lot) and verify ground wire on Regulator is in deed going to ground. Also the Regulator positive wire should have battery voltage all the time. If ALL this checks out, start bike and start unplugging stuff until bike charges and that should show you where you have an issue. Hope this helps Also firstly check fuses :) Running you need at least 12.9 to 14.1. My 511 runs around 13.3- 13.9 - idling
 
Sorry for the bad luck. My 2011 te449 shows 14.15v at idle. Sure sounds like a floating ground.
 
I've been talking to a husqvarna boffin today and he says that even though I've done a resistance test on the stator which was ok ,I should be getting an amp reading at the three pin connector between stator and voltage regulator,the workshop manual reckons 11amps at 1500 rpm which I'm not getting,there is something being generated as I get sparks when I put multimeter probes on any two of the three pins on connector but it's only 0.02 of an amp at 2000-2500rpm!!...what amps do you get noobee??...although it looks like I'll be sending stator off for a rewind rather than a new one which will be a nice rip-off price of 380 fine English pounds:mad:
Thanks to all for input on this:)
 
An AMP test is a little tougher to do than a Volts AC test, which I normally do. You should perform a Loaded test and an Unloaded test. A Loaded test is checking AC output at the Stator connector (yellow wire to yellow wire) plugged in, and an Unloaded test is checking AC output at the connector while be unplugged. Idling you should have 15-25 VAC Loaded, and 20-40 VAC Unloaded. Also a big thing we see with Street bikes is bad fuel pumps and/or clogged fuel filters which draw more amperage that what the bike is capable of charging. I don't know the exact draw, but you shouldn't be pulling more than 6-7 amps when the pump is priming. Also - most Meters have a 10AMP fuse in them for testing amps.. if it's anything more, the fuse will blow, most likely your fuse blew in the meter..:)
 
mull, when doing a current measurement (amperage), the meter needs to be in series with the circuit. I.e. NOT like measuring voltage, where you're measuring across the circuit (i.e. parallel).
 
Husqracr,Andrews..if only you'd posted earlier,as I have sent the stator away to be tested,and have been phoned and told it's fine but I still have to do a loaded and unloaded ac test,so it looks like your advice will come in handy after all husqracr!!
Those of you with a sharp eye will have noticed that I have little or no experience with auto electrics,it's a shock I know,but true;)
So,stator seems OK,voltage regulator is OK,new battery,and we are left with a short somewhere,most things that can be unplugged are,so do I now have to start stripping wires out of the harness to check condition??
 
mull said:
we are left with a short somewhere,most things that can be unplugged are,so do I now have to start stripping wires out of the harness to check condition??
Click to expand...

The 2011 449 harness had a multitude of problems including shorts, poor non-waterproof connectors and a major error in the feedback loop between the speedometer and the ecu. The 2012 harness addressed all of these issues and I think it would be your best bet.
 
At last I'm getting somewhere!!,received stator back from testing today so put it back in bike for ac test and it's not good between outer pins on an unloaded test (didn't bother doing loaded test after that),so it's another stator removal and posting for repair.
In fact I've spent so much time removing and reinstalling stator I can now do it in complete darkness!!..oh and the wife thinks I'm having an affair with it,which is absolutely ridiculous,even though it does look good in a blond wig and lipstick but that's another story!;)
 
Usually a stator that isn't grounded (bad) will have AC output. Hate to ask... but the motor was running when you tested for AC volts right..?:( Unloaded (unplugged) testing 2 yellow wires, you can see almost 60-70 VAC with the engine revved. You should get the same results testing all 3 wires against each other. Sounds like you have a gremlin messing with you in there !
 
With motor ticking over and the three yellow wires unplugged at connector I have approx 32.5 vac between pins a-b and also pins b-c but I only get approx 4.5 vac between pins a-c,with revs I get approx 60 vac between pins a-b and b-c but only 8.5 vac between pins a-c.so I'm sending it off for repair and I'll let you know result when it's all back together.
 
Tinken said:
The 2011 449 harness had a multitude of problems including shorts, poor non-waterproof connectors and a major error in the feedback loop between the speedometer and the ecu. The 2012 harness addressed all of these issues and I think it would be your best bet.
Click to expand...

Is it possible for people running the 2011 bikes to purchase a 2012 or 2013 wiring and do a swap to the new wiring??
 
success !!,received repaired stator today and I put it back in bike mere minutes ago,fired it up and champion,13.9volts pumping into battery...I'm one happy chappy I can tell you !:banana:
 
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