2011 TE310 Motor stopped under light load

[EUROJulian]

hmmm- I'm not so sure that this is such a great mystery. First of all, these motors (xlites especially) are known for the ADC not working if the valves are on the loose side of the specification. Second of all- they start and run fine at low rpm's with the ADC working... so why not at high rpm's? It's not like the ADC is letting the majority of the compressed mixture pass by... I'd guess (*guess*)...........!

Not a mystery. I was pointing to guy riding 200cc bike or maybe less, for all that time not realizing it.
On the other hand if that was all he knew since bike was new and had no exposure to other motorcycles in this class.... I would expect some other giveaways though....

 

[MotoXImage]

Euro, please explain what your inferring when you said " something's not kosher"

As for my not recognizing the problem, besides the original owner, no one else that rode it noticed nor did anyone else hear anything unusual. The reality is that the decompressor only opens 1 valve minutely for a very short period of time. Not 2 valves fully opened for a significantly longer period. Think of this as a staggered release of energy that most likely would provide a softer, more tractable powerband with slightly less HP.

 

[EUROJulian]

Euro, please explain what your inferring when you said " something's not kosher" ....

I expected somebody was there and messed it up, couldnt believe it left factory like that. I am surprised there was no other signs beside power loss. Let us know how bike feels after repar. Perhaps you be returning that orange Husky LOL

BTW Design should be done fail-safe preventing incorrect assembly.

 

[srowzeen]

if you can 'kick' it through easily with your hand- you probably got a compression problem.

A compression test will give you a clue to these:
bad ADC (good call).
broken timing chain.
stuck valve.
broken valve spring.
broken cam (rare).
cracked head.
blown head gasket.
loose or broken sparkplug.
hole in piston.
broken rings.
cracked cylinder.
(also a loss of oil/pressure can cause the above problems; what's the oil level? does it smell brunt?)

other non-compression related stuff:
bad manifold.
sheared flywheel key.
pulse coil intermittent
coil intermittent
bad sensor (TPS, MAP, CTS)
some electrical fault (eg. short or broken wire; battery or connections)
check your kill button and wire.

if it doesn't backfire anymore, check the FI system: pump, filter, hoses, injector

did you (unknowingly) overheat it? check the coolant

good luck. keep us updated and let us know what you find.

Trenchcoat and MotoXimage -
This has been and enlightening exchange. Own a TE-310 2011. Sheared two keys, which boogered up the sprag, freewheel and needle bearing, got everything back together using the Ty Racing Flywheel tool and some 608 Loctite. She would not fire up immediately and after a day after the repairs it fired up after two kicks - lots of back-firing popping upon start. We ran it to make sure there were no leaks it ran fine. Loaded her up to bring her back home, attempted to fire her up again and all she did was snap, crackle and pop and then a poof of smoke appeared coming up from the under side of the tank between the radiator and tank, and now she doesn't make a any snap, crackle or pop. We checked all fuses - they are fine - no error codes except the standard E41 which seems to appear upon start up regardless of the bikes health. We removed the tank last night and noticed the fuel line from the pump was marginally attached, not spilling anything but likely taking in air, we reattached and tried starting it and still nothing. Wont start via electric or kick. Sounds a little "dead". There appears to be compression though. While I realize this is a remote diagnosis and suggestion - any help would be greatly appreciated. And if nothing else a good Husky mechanic in Nor Cal?

 

[EUROJulian]

Trenchcoat and MotoXimage -
This has been and enlightening exchange. Own a TE-310 2011. Sheared two keys, which boogered up the sprag...l?

Contrary to common belief not a nut torque issue but fitting issue. People in the know suggesting lapping mating surfaces then degreasing them properly and only then torque to spec.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Check your flywheel key for the 3rd time. Inspect the wiring under the tank. Insure you have spark too (gas?).

Also start a new thread so we can help you.

Good luck.

 

[srowzeen]

Contrary to common belief not a nut torque issue but fitting issue. People in the know suggesting lapping mating surfaces then degreasing them properly and only then torque to spec.

Yeah we figured this out. Bike was bought used and the previous owner did not replace a completely destroyed needle bearing, the internal guts on this bike is better than new. This isn't my problem now - see above for the issue now. Doesn't want to start electric or kick - we have compression, so we are trying to chase down the potential candidates for the problem. Or find a good Nor Cal mechanic.

 

[srowzeen]

Check your flywheel key for the 3rd time. Inspect the wiring under the tank. Insure you have spark too (gas?).

Also start a new thread so we can help you.

Good luck.

Thank you and will do...

 

[MotoXImage]

Trenchcoat and MotoXimage -
We ran it to make sure there were no leaks it ran fine. Loaded her up to bring her back home, attempted to fire her up again and all she did was snap, crackle and pop and then a poof of smoke appeared coming up from the under side of the tank between the radiator and tank, and now she doesn't make a any snap, crackle or pop. Sounds a little "dead". There appears to be compression though. While I realize this is a remote diagnosis and suggestion - any help would be greatly appreciated. And if nothing else a good Husky mechanic in Nor Cal?

The puff of smoke might be a clue. Was there a smell associated with it, IE, like electrical burn? Your coil and ECU are in that general area.
At this point I'd say you need to check for spark. As Trenchcoat85 suggested, please start another thread so you can get front page viewing on your problem.