• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2011 TE449 Running well with factory EFI system - finally

Mr Ford40 said:
Guys do any of you /or have you had any issues with the bike at 1/4 throttle jerking.and backing of cracking even sometimes a flame from the rear. I run race map 2 ,pro circuit full system, had the tps adjusted because a tree branch smashed it, 98 oct even tryed octane 104. still same problem .
Click to expand...

Ford40 - sounds like you will have to invest in a PCV like everyone else - without it they run horrible
 
nonferrous said:
cheers everyone - it was the air bypass screw too far out some 4 turns approx. so wound it back to the recommended 2 and a quarter - no more throttle hang. Glad I didn't have to remove the vacuum nipple - it is hard to get at.

The only thing this bike needs now is a wider ratio gearbox as it has tonnes of power to pull a much taller top gear.
Anyone able to tell me what 4 teeth less on the back sprocket will reduce the revs by in top or how many KMs faster it will gain ? The manual says the standard SMR sprocket is 43 Teeth
Click to expand...


I'm running stock front 15 with a 44 rear, super moto 17" wheels. Top gear I can easily cruise 60 mph at half throttle. I haven't wound it up yet, only have 300 miles on the bike so far. 14 TE511. Compared to stock 51 tooth rear, this is a vast improvement, meaning lower RPMs at higher road speeds. Don't have an RPM reader thing, so can't say precisely, only that it's very noticeable improvement. I had to remove a couple of links of chain. No problem.
 
Tinken said:
Also check for air leaks around your intake boots. The vacuum nipple can be replaced with an 8mm bolt.
Click to expand...


This vacuum nipple... still looking for it. The photo I saw wasn't clear enough for me. Is this where the hose attaches to the throttle body? Well, when I visit, I'll cover all of this stuff hopefully.
 
Mr Ford40 said:
Guys do any of you /or have you had any issues with the bike at 1/4 throttle jerking.and backing of cracking even sometimes a flame from the rear. I run race map 2 ,pro circuit full system, had the tps adjusted because a tree branch smashed it, 98 oct even tryed octane 104. still same problem .
Click to expand...


i reckon you should call First Class Lilydale. They are pretty good with the Kymco Engines. They have done many repairs and tunes to other bikes. Just as i said earlier hier with the TE449 which wa used racing.
 
Long weekend coming up.. MAny of us will go for a ride. Lets see how you all go with the minor modifications .
 
could someone do specific manual to remove without problems FBW and secondary butterfly?
Just in case of... like a guide..
 
Luke87-SMR said:
could someone do specific manual to remove without problems FBW and secondary butterfly?
Just in case of... like a guide..
Click to expand...



go to the first one or two pages of this topic... it's all there.

Remove Rubber boot from Throttle Body to gain access to the upper Butterfly. Take Phillips head Screwdriver and Remove 2 screws and take out Butterfly out.
 
Thrasher said:
I had PVC before butterfly removal. I believe Dangermouse does not have a PCV at all.
Click to expand...

very interesting - even after the massive improvement of a PCV and tune you them gain another massive improvement with the FBW butterfly removal - so anyone else done this modification ? sounds like a no brainer
 
TomGlander said:
I'm running stock front 15 with a 44 rear, super moto 17" wheels. Top gear I can easily cruise 60 mph at half throttle. I haven't wound it up yet, only have 300 miles on the bike so far. 14 TE511. Compared to stock 51 tooth rear, this is a vast improvement, meaning lower RPMs at higher road speeds. Don't have an RPM reader thing, so can't say precisely, only that it's very noticeable improvement. I had to remove a couple of links of chain. No problem.
Click to expand...

I reckon mine is revving too high in top gear at 100 km which is motorway speed here even though I try and avoid them. For the race track it would run out of legs one third to half the way down a short straight
 
Please forgive my ignorance on this subject. But, out of curiosity, does this render any piggy-back ecu gizmos useless, and for that matter the ecu itself? I.e. don't the piggy-back map overrides just change how much the butterfly is open at certain rpm/throttle position? By removing it, the fuel injection becomes completely throttle position dependant? Just trying to figure out the mechanics behind it.
 
Cosmokenney said:
Please forgive my ignorance on this subject. But, out of curiosity, does this render any piggy-back ecu gizmos useless, and for that matter the ecu itself? I.e. don't the piggy-back map overrides just change how much the butterfly is open at certain rpm/throttle position? By removing it, the fuel injection becomes completely throttle position dependant? Just trying to figure out the mechanics behind it.
Click to expand...
No. The piggy back systems change how much fuel the fuel injector is injecting at a specific rpm and throttle position. The PCV gets throttle position from the primary butterfly, and the JD I believe just 'guesses' the throttle position based on the voltage going to the injector.
 
You might need to start reading the thread from the beginning because it can be a bit confusing. The butterfly we're talking about is a second butterfly. It can be removed without effecting your PCV or whatever else you're using.
 
nonferrous said:
Hey Thrasher and Dangermouse - did you remove the FBW butterfly before or after PCV install and Map update ?
Click to expand...


I don't have a PCV, but I'm fairly sure the ECU I ended up with has map3-(not my original ecu after warranty work).
I 'll have the dealer confirm this soon, actually.
The butterfly removal made the most difference in how the power arrives, anywhere in the range, if you crack it open, it surges forward, proper 450cc power!

I am not anti-PCV, the reason I set out on doing these mods was to see if it was possible to get it to run right without adding systems on.
It is at about 95% to where I want to be with it & still have another couple of cheap fixes in mind.
I have just got an A/F ratio meter kit so I see the changes I make,
These thing will take me a little while to nut out though, but I'll post them up, stay tuned. :)

It will give people with the skills a choice, buy something with a known outcome or cheaper DIY solution.
 
Cosmokenney said:
Please forgive my ignorance on this subject. But, out of curiosity, does this render any piggy-back ecu gizmos useless, and for that matter the ecu itself? I.e. don't the piggy-back map overrides just change how much the butterfly is open at certain rpm/throttle position? By removing it, the fuel injection becomes completely throttle position dependant? Just trying to figure out the mechanics behind it.
Click to expand...


None of the 'piggy-backs' control the second butterfly (My reason for removing the idle arm system).
The bikes' own ECU controls the FBW butterfly.
You may find you need different map adjustment for a JD/PCV/Bazzaz etc if you pull the butterfly, especially if they have been auto-tuned I would think, as they have been mapped around the restriction of the second butterfly.
Can't say for sure, as I don't have one, but that's how I see it.
 
Removed it.

2011 TE511
5600 ish miles
Has always been a pretty good running bike and better with each upgrade.
JD tuner
Free flow muffler
ZipTy remapped to map 3
Jumper plug in.
Clean air filter.
Earth-x battery installed / TPS reset

Was a fairly EZ mod. I greased the Airbox to boot/tube connection for extra safety. TB was slightly dirty but not bad for the miles / riding.

Starts quicker (Bat), started first time 6 or so times where before it seemed to do a start die once or twice before settling to a idle when cold. Not sure if this has anything to do with the BF (butterfly). Seems snappier and more responsive. Have only ridden it around the block real quick to warm the oil to change it and make sure it ran OK. It does seem snappier. I will know a lot more after a good off road ride but seems positive at this point.

Mine was open like this, turned the key on stayed there.

20140416_145759.jpg


20140416_150633.jpg
 
Cool, Motosportz & thanks for the update.:thumbsup:

Interesting to see how open your butterfly was, mine was quite a bit more closed than that on inspection.
Very interested to hear your thoughts after a good ride, as mentioned earlier, there may be some trimming of maps to do on a bike with a tuner box added in.
Enjoy the 'new' snappier bike!! :)
 
Ummmm.

So I did the removal, installed the ecu with race map III, and changed to a iridium spark plug and oil change

Bike ran for a bit then I blipped the throttle and it died...hmm that's weird.... crank crank crank crank crank crank. nothing not even trying and throttle doesn't help.

So I let the oil level drain to the bottom of the sight glass (maybe I over filled it?) no help.

So then I reset the auto tune and PCV to 0 on everything. Crank crank crank crank crank crank no start.

Then I remove the airbox/boot and crank crank crank give it 20% throttle crank crank run and runs just fine....then it dies.


Then I pull the plug and it looks....brand new no problems and not fuel soaked.

Any ideas before I go crazy?

I re-loaded the nick burson map to the PCV and auto tune.

Also got the battery on charge as it got really low towards the end...
 
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