Motosportz, would you be able to post a picture of your solution. I have a 2010 TE510 and have found similar issues. I've been running my oil level a bit lower, which has helped, but not entirely eliminated the issue.
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2011 txc 511 - oil coming out of the airbox
- Thread starter dbarnes
- Start date
Motosportz, would you be able to post a picture of your solution. I have a 2010 TE510 and have found similar issues. I've been running my oil level a bit lower, which has helped, but not entirely eliminated the issue.
It seems to be that 511s are more susceptible to the problem. In my case it was primarily about over oiling the air filter so I had dripping at start up, not at high revs. Others seem to be having more trouble with crankcase ventilation, so the lower oil level helps.
That said I havent had a bit of trouble once I became more sparing with my filter oil (and I let them drip overnight) and I keep my oil level at around 1/4 on the sight glass.
That said I havent had a bit of trouble once I became more sparing with my filter oil (and I let them drip overnight) and I keep my oil level at around 1/4 on the sight glass.
Rearwheelin
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I am completely mind screwed on the oil level issue..lol. I worry our Jerry thinking doesn't leave enouph oil in the engine ! Ha ha.... My bike has finally blown out enouph oil between two rids so it doesn't show in the window now...ha ha
erktastic
Husqvarna
AA Class
Has anyone measured what the proper amount of oil is to prevent this issue? I am going to go with trial and error first, however a starting point would be nice. My brand new 2012 TE511 has this same issue and its quite annoying. Also are there any negative side effects from removing the breather tube from the airbox as motosportz has indicated?
Even with pulling both screens and the oil filter I have never gotten a full liter into my 511 and my target is about 1/4 on the oil glass. I warm bike, drain, swap filter, clean screens and put in about 600ml, then I fire up, let it run a couple minutes, turn off, go have a cup of coffee, check level and add until I get to 1/4 from bottom with the bike level. I have never sucked oil using this procedure and I have no dripping from airbox.
In my opinion, the air filter oil is at least as much a culprit as the engine oil. After cleaning and oiling the filter I let my filter drip overnight to remove excess oil, I almost always get some out of it no matter how lightly I do the oiling (I use a squirt bottle and NoToil). If you dont drain it first that oil ends up dripping onto the top of your engine through the airbox drip hole. The smoke and spooge when you start it make it look like a bigger mess than it is ...kinda like the blood from a head wound
In my opinion, the air filter oil is at least as much a culprit as the engine oil. After cleaning and oiling the filter I let my filter drip overnight to remove excess oil, I almost always get some out of it no matter how lightly I do the oiling (I use a squirt bottle and NoToil). If you dont drain it first that oil ends up dripping onto the top of your engine through the airbox drip hole. The smoke and spooge when you start it make it look like a bigger mess than it is ...kinda like the blood from a head wound
spud1968
Husqvarna
AA Class
900ml with a filter change leaving the oil to drain for 30minutes. Only change the oil when the engine is warm and i prime the new oil filter.....2011 te449. I only ride comps and will have the throttle on the stop quite a few times and no oil on the rocker cover. I never warm the bcike on the sidestand.
squid
Husqvarna
B Class
My SMR 511 started spewing out oil today, when I lent it to a mate for bike license test training. First it started dripping just a bit, then a bit more and then the flood gates opened. There hasn't been a problem before, and this was very sudden. The bike's not overfilled, so WTF? My first idea was a clogged breather, but if it breathes through the air filter...
Gotta take it apart and see what the airbox looks like from the inside.
Gotta take it apart and see what the airbox looks like from the inside.
Desertyucca
Husqvarna
AA Class
Did he stall the bike at low RPM?
Desertyucca
Husqvarna
AA Class
One good low rpm stall with the compression stroke and you will have oil flowing from the AIR cleaner when oil level is high. Managing the oil level carefully as other postings have indicated these stalls will typically not have oil flowing into the air cleaner. A few Other CafeHusky post's shows home brew modification to the Hose that drain oil to the lower parts of the frame to prevent oil on the engine! Good Idea since the cleanup on the top of the engine is not easy without a Pressure washer or solvents. With the electrical parts in the area a Pressure washer could cause trouble! The best solution I found from a cafe husky post was after a good warm up or long ride check the level, if high remove the fill cap and drain the oil into a pan. Post indicate the oil needs to be level with the Fill Cap lower rim when the Engine is really good and hot. My Experience I have not seen oil from the air cleaner much after following those tips!
NousDefions
Husqvarna
AA Class
In either case, I don't mind the oil dripping so much. When the 510 is sitting on its kickstand overnight, the oil drains out the bottom of the airbox, slides down to the lowest corner of it, and drips on my chain thus keeping it lubed for me. Brilliant design.
squid
Husqvarna
B Class
Found the possible cause. Took it slightly apart today and noticed the airbox to throttle body pipe wasn't properly connected to the airbox, so it's gotten dirty air and I've been riding in very dusty conditions. That might have hurt the engine which might explain the heavy breathing. The air filter was soaked in motor oil, which can advance the breathing, as it helps create a vacuum in the clean side of the airbox.
Rearwheelin
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I'm about ready to throw away the airbox all together and see if I can come up with a pod filter setup.... 
OlderHuskyRider
Husqvarna
Pro Class
If I had a bike that was doing this, here's what I'd do, I saw an HD rider do this to his bike when he was having blow-by problems:
Seal off the airbox fitting for the breather hose. Get a new, long piece of hose that fits the breather on the engine, Route the hose up under the cowling to the highest point that you can, up under that fake gas tank area. Put a crankcase breather filter on it, and secure the hose and filter to restrict movement. Make sure there are no kinks or bends in the hose as it travels upward.
Now, the engine still has access to air, in AND out, oil saturated air/mist can escape as needed and the filter will catch that and filter incoming air as well. And liquid oil that is too heavy to travel out of the system drains back into the engine, having never left the engine.
You should now be able to run the proper amount of oil instead of shortchanging the engine.
Seal off the airbox fitting for the breather hose. Get a new, long piece of hose that fits the breather on the engine, Route the hose up under the cowling to the highest point that you can, up under that fake gas tank area. Put a crankcase breather filter on it, and secure the hose and filter to restrict movement. Make sure there are no kinks or bends in the hose as it travels upward.
Now, the engine still has access to air, in AND out, oil saturated air/mist can escape as needed and the filter will catch that and filter incoming air as well. And liquid oil that is too heavy to travel out of the system drains back into the engine, having never left the engine.
You should now be able to run the proper amount of oil instead of shortchanging the engine.
On my 449 the first oil change had me more covered in oil than anything else. It literally shoots out when the drain plug comes off when hot. Being worried about the issue of starving the engine, I erred on the safe side and filled to a little over 2/3. The engine thus found its own level and exchanged some of the green filter oil for Castrol. Removed the filter, dropped it in a zipper plastic bag and squeezed out excess. All done. Oil its much cheaper than a rebuild.
Yes, if there were a drain line routing the drip away from the top of the engine most would never have any idea this is an issue. Making sure it didnt drip in front of the rear tire would be a whole different sort of problem.