Micfasto
Husqvarna
AA Class
I have had my bike for a little over a year and a half and have just over 80 hours on it.
This is a thread I would like to share about it;
Modifications I have done to it. (Then further detail below)
Cyra CRM hand guards.
MSR Rear disk guard.
MSR radiator guards.
Ricochet Skid Plate
Fuel injection line on the radiator crossover tubes.
Stock seat Cut down 1"
FMF Power Bomb
FMF Q4
Engine Ice
Maxima Racing Fork Fluid
Maxima Racing Brake Fluid (hi-temp version)
Mobile 1 0w-40
Motosportz Steering damper
Merge Racing RRS pressure springs (soft/offroad)
Factory height step seat
6.0kg rear spring (180lb rider)
48t rear sprocket.
Zipty fuel line elbow
NGK CR9EIX iridium plug
I rode the bike with just the guards mounted from the showroom for a few hours to get the feel of the bike. The Cyra guards, skid plate, rear brake guard and radiator guards all worked well. the best compliment I can give them is I never notice them, they just keep doing there job. I do switch back and forth between the stock skid plate and the ALU one when it is a rocky ride.
I did the FI line modification on the radiator cross over tubes recommended by Scott Summers. (this may not be need on the newer bikes but it was an easy addition while putting on the radiator guards) I also use FI clamps on the lines.
Then I cut down the stock seat 1" (I rode with that for about 1 year then went back to the factory step seat as it give less bend in my knees and helps transition form sitting to standing better. Also the cut foam broke down over a year of riding.)
I than added a full FMF system. The Power bomb and Q4 with a JD tuner at the same time. This really woke the bike up and allows me to ride a gear higher out on the trails and allowed me to lug the motor a little more to find some traction.
I went with a Motorsportz steering damper. Which made the bike "Better" It was not bad before but was just better after. A very nice product!
I flushed and replaced the brake fluid in both the front and rear as well as the clutch fluid. I used Maxima Racing Hi-temp brake fluid (the $20 a bottle stuff). Best brake fluid I have used, very easy to bleed as it does not hold any air bubbles. It performs without issue. It comes sealed in a metal bottle packed with nitrogen to keep it fresh. I used the rest of the bottle to flush and fill my other bikes. This will be the only brake fluid I will buy from now on.
I also flushed the cooling system and changed to Engine Ice. I have been using that for a while on my water cooled bikes and it works well. I have never had a drop of coolant come out of the overflow tube when the radiator is filled as per the manual. Which is below the cross over tube and just over the top cooling fins. I do have a bottle of Zipty Racing coolant for the next flush but have never had an issue with cooling on this bike.
I serviced the front forks with 345ml of Maxima Racking Fork Fluid 5wt at 20 hours. (Also the best fluid I have used) I used one tusk oil seal to replace a leaking one and kept the non leaky factory one on the other side. I added seal saver to them at this time and have not had a leak in the 60 hours since. (I have a set of SKF seals and KYB bushings for my next service which is due now)
I then added Merge racing RRS pressure springs to the forks. This was one of the best modification I made to improve handling. (MikeB recommended)
I rode the heck out of the bike like that for a while. Then I got the bug to try to improve on the already very good cornering of this bike. Don't get me wrong the bike handled great it was just one spot that I rode a lot that was very high speed but the lines were the with of a front tire. So if the bike or rider was as 98% this spot would exploit the last 2% What I did: I added a 6.kg rear spring, Lowered the front end to 11mm of fork tube above the top clamp and moved the rear wheel back 15mm. This made up about 1.5% of the last 2%.
Spring sizes for this bike are the same as 2006-2014 Yz250 spring both front and rear (rear needs to be a stiffer rate on the Husky)
With Tinken's recommendation I went with Mobile 1 0w-40 oil. I was using mobile 1 10-40 racing oil. I did notice a change as the clutch did not chudder as it did before when just starting out on the bike for the day. I will stay with the 0w-40 for this bike. (I am a big fan of Rotella and use it in my other bikes but I am very satisfied with the 0w-40 in the 310) I change the oil every 6 hours and the filter every 12. I did pick up a Stainless Steel filter and will use that on my next change. The oil and Filter does lower the oil drag in the motor and makes a slight bit more power. (in theory)
48t rear sprocket. (Factory is 13-50 I went to 13-48.) I never really use first gear for more than 10 feet on this bike with the factory gearing. I ride full race mode most of the time (or Full Retard) so I am on the gas or brakes pretty heavy most of the time. There is a jump at the motocross track that I need 3rd and 1/2 gear to make. 3rd was to low and 4th I had to slip the clutch out of the corner too much. So I went from 50t to 48t on the rear sprocket. This gave me what I needed on the track and transitions well with my style on the trails. Now I ride the trails in 2nd and 3rd instead of 3rd and 4th most of the time. When it opens up it also give this bike some better legs in the top end.
I did a vale check at 80 hours and they have not budged .154 and .155 on the intake and .220 on both exhaust. The same as always and no need to adjust as the shims are .05 steps anyway (Pro X does make .025 step ones if needed, or I will sand down the shims when needed.)
While I had the bike apart I finally put on my Zipty elbow. I never had a problem with the stock plastic one but the Zipty one is "Better". One tip I found helpful with the stock set up was to remove the line from the injector prior to trying to lift the tank.
After 80 hours my oil return line finally started leaking from a small split from about 20 oil changes. I replaced the whole line and added Fuel Injection hose clamps to it. (I was going to use a TC drain plug and get rid of the whole line but thought better) I can live with changing the oil return line on each valve check. Total cost is under $10. I do have the new Zipty oil return mod on order and will go that route the next time because it adds the peace of mind that your motor will not dump all the oil in 5 seconds if the hose breaks.
I added the NGK CR9EIX iridium plug at the valve check. I have been a fan of iridium plugs in all my vehicles and am changing over to them in all my stuff. I have had a small stumble in my bike from the first day. It is only at 1/16th throttle in first gear and I only notice it when idling though the pits on the way to the track. I can replicate it on the stand as well. It never bothered me as I ride in full race mode all the time but as soon as I put the new iridium plug in the stumble is gone. I do not know if the plug was bad (it did it from the first time I rode it) My guess is the iridium plug fires better under marginal conditions and cleaned up the little stumble.
It definitely is not a placebo effect and my guess is others have reported the same off idle stubble as well so it was not my prior setup. This does not really effect the way I ride but it is nice to know it is gone.
Future upgrade coming soon are a Flexx handlebar and new lighter fork springs. If the new springs do not get my forks that extra .5% then they are going off to Zipty for a revalve.
I was flirting with a new Li-ion battery but it is not a priority. I have never had problems starting this bike, hot, cold ,in gear, or in neutral. In fact I left the run switch out and killed the stock battery and picked up a cheap battery from Pepboys so I could ride the next day. The cheap battery was rated at about half the CCA as stock and I still do not have any starting issues for the last 6 months.
Great bike over all!
I am not an expert but I do have a lot of experience with the 2012 TXC 310 so if you have any questions. I will do my best to help.
This is a thread I would like to share about it;
Modifications I have done to it. (Then further detail below)
Cyra CRM hand guards.
MSR Rear disk guard.
MSR radiator guards.
Ricochet Skid Plate
Fuel injection line on the radiator crossover tubes.
Stock seat Cut down 1"
FMF Power Bomb
FMF Q4
Engine Ice
Maxima Racing Fork Fluid
Maxima Racing Brake Fluid (hi-temp version)
Mobile 1 0w-40
Motosportz Steering damper
Merge Racing RRS pressure springs (soft/offroad)
Factory height step seat
6.0kg rear spring (180lb rider)
48t rear sprocket.
Zipty fuel line elbow
NGK CR9EIX iridium plug
I rode the bike with just the guards mounted from the showroom for a few hours to get the feel of the bike. The Cyra guards, skid plate, rear brake guard and radiator guards all worked well. the best compliment I can give them is I never notice them, they just keep doing there job. I do switch back and forth between the stock skid plate and the ALU one when it is a rocky ride.
I did the FI line modification on the radiator cross over tubes recommended by Scott Summers. (this may not be need on the newer bikes but it was an easy addition while putting on the radiator guards) I also use FI clamps on the lines.
Then I cut down the stock seat 1" (I rode with that for about 1 year then went back to the factory step seat as it give less bend in my knees and helps transition form sitting to standing better. Also the cut foam broke down over a year of riding.)
I than added a full FMF system. The Power bomb and Q4 with a JD tuner at the same time. This really woke the bike up and allows me to ride a gear higher out on the trails and allowed me to lug the motor a little more to find some traction.
I went with a Motorsportz steering damper. Which made the bike "Better" It was not bad before but was just better after. A very nice product!
I flushed and replaced the brake fluid in both the front and rear as well as the clutch fluid. I used Maxima Racing Hi-temp brake fluid (the $20 a bottle stuff). Best brake fluid I have used, very easy to bleed as it does not hold any air bubbles. It performs without issue. It comes sealed in a metal bottle packed with nitrogen to keep it fresh. I used the rest of the bottle to flush and fill my other bikes. This will be the only brake fluid I will buy from now on.
I also flushed the cooling system and changed to Engine Ice. I have been using that for a while on my water cooled bikes and it works well. I have never had a drop of coolant come out of the overflow tube when the radiator is filled as per the manual. Which is below the cross over tube and just over the top cooling fins. I do have a bottle of Zipty Racing coolant for the next flush but have never had an issue with cooling on this bike.
I serviced the front forks with 345ml of Maxima Racking Fork Fluid 5wt at 20 hours. (Also the best fluid I have used) I used one tusk oil seal to replace a leaking one and kept the non leaky factory one on the other side. I added seal saver to them at this time and have not had a leak in the 60 hours since. (I have a set of SKF seals and KYB bushings for my next service which is due now)
I then added Merge racing RRS pressure springs to the forks. This was one of the best modification I made to improve handling. (MikeB recommended)
I rode the heck out of the bike like that for a while. Then I got the bug to try to improve on the already very good cornering of this bike. Don't get me wrong the bike handled great it was just one spot that I rode a lot that was very high speed but the lines were the with of a front tire. So if the bike or rider was as 98% this spot would exploit the last 2% What I did: I added a 6.kg rear spring, Lowered the front end to 11mm of fork tube above the top clamp and moved the rear wheel back 15mm. This made up about 1.5% of the last 2%.
Spring sizes for this bike are the same as 2006-2014 Yz250 spring both front and rear (rear needs to be a stiffer rate on the Husky)
With Tinken's recommendation I went with Mobile 1 0w-40 oil. I was using mobile 1 10-40 racing oil. I did notice a change as the clutch did not chudder as it did before when just starting out on the bike for the day. I will stay with the 0w-40 for this bike. (I am a big fan of Rotella and use it in my other bikes but I am very satisfied with the 0w-40 in the 310) I change the oil every 6 hours and the filter every 12. I did pick up a Stainless Steel filter and will use that on my next change. The oil and Filter does lower the oil drag in the motor and makes a slight bit more power. (in theory)
48t rear sprocket. (Factory is 13-50 I went to 13-48.) I never really use first gear for more than 10 feet on this bike with the factory gearing. I ride full race mode most of the time (or Full Retard) so I am on the gas or brakes pretty heavy most of the time. There is a jump at the motocross track that I need 3rd and 1/2 gear to make. 3rd was to low and 4th I had to slip the clutch out of the corner too much. So I went from 50t to 48t on the rear sprocket. This gave me what I needed on the track and transitions well with my style on the trails. Now I ride the trails in 2nd and 3rd instead of 3rd and 4th most of the time. When it opens up it also give this bike some better legs in the top end.
I did a vale check at 80 hours and they have not budged .154 and .155 on the intake and .220 on both exhaust. The same as always and no need to adjust as the shims are .05 steps anyway (Pro X does make .025 step ones if needed, or I will sand down the shims when needed.)
While I had the bike apart I finally put on my Zipty elbow. I never had a problem with the stock plastic one but the Zipty one is "Better". One tip I found helpful with the stock set up was to remove the line from the injector prior to trying to lift the tank.
After 80 hours my oil return line finally started leaking from a small split from about 20 oil changes. I replaced the whole line and added Fuel Injection hose clamps to it. (I was going to use a TC drain plug and get rid of the whole line but thought better) I can live with changing the oil return line on each valve check. Total cost is under $10. I do have the new Zipty oil return mod on order and will go that route the next time because it adds the peace of mind that your motor will not dump all the oil in 5 seconds if the hose breaks.
I added the NGK CR9EIX iridium plug at the valve check. I have been a fan of iridium plugs in all my vehicles and am changing over to them in all my stuff. I have had a small stumble in my bike from the first day. It is only at 1/16th throttle in first gear and I only notice it when idling though the pits on the way to the track. I can replicate it on the stand as well. It never bothered me as I ride in full race mode all the time but as soon as I put the new iridium plug in the stumble is gone. I do not know if the plug was bad (it did it from the first time I rode it) My guess is the iridium plug fires better under marginal conditions and cleaned up the little stumble.
It definitely is not a placebo effect and my guess is others have reported the same off idle stubble as well so it was not my prior setup. This does not really effect the way I ride but it is nice to know it is gone.
Future upgrade coming soon are a Flexx handlebar and new lighter fork springs. If the new springs do not get my forks that extra .5% then they are going off to Zipty for a revalve.
I was flirting with a new Li-ion battery but it is not a priority. I have never had problems starting this bike, hot, cold ,in gear, or in neutral. In fact I left the run switch out and killed the stock battery and picked up a cheap battery from Pepboys so I could ride the next day. The cheap battery was rated at about half the CCA as stock and I still do not have any starting issues for the last 6 months.
Great bike over all!
I am not an expert but I do have a lot of experience with the 2012 TXC 310 so if you have any questions. I will do my best to help.
)
. I blew the corner at 4:55 and lost a few seconds, but you are definitely smoother on the throttle than I am.
) . Initial impressions are good.